How To Replace The Oil Pan Gasket

015227

New Member
I have a '95 GS-R and the gasket on my oil pan is leaking. How do I get to it? Would I have to take off the headers, catalic converter, etc. and what tools and size would I need to get the job done? If you have a step by step walkthrough, I'll be grateful. Thank you in advance.
 

015227

New Member
Thank you, that site definitely does help.
 


96GSRteg

Tyler
It seams all fine and dandy until you get to the transmission cover plate. Its not that big of a deal, but you just realize you have more work than you thought you did.

Also, when putting the new gasket on, it helped me to push it through the few threads so it held in place on the motor while i put the pan back on. And dont forget to check all around meticulously to make sure the gasket is not bulged out or pushed in. It must be flush with the pan.
 

typerwhat

New Member
Great Tips - myHondaHabit oil pan gasket and stud kit

It seams all fine and dandy until you get to the transmission cover plate. Its not that big of a deal, but you just realize you have more work than you thought you did.

Also, when putting the new gasket on, it helped me to push it through the few threads so it held in place on the motor while i put the pan back on. And dont forget to check all around meticulously to make sure the gasket is not bulged out or pushed in. It must be flush with the pan.
I found a way to avoid all the problems with the gasket bulging and moving around while trying to put the oil pan back on. I gave up on the rubber/nitrile stuff because it simply doesn't work well. If it holds a seal, it doesn't do it for long. Seriously, how many people with a b18 engine do you know that don't have oil pan leaks?

I used the myHondaHabit oil pan gasket and stud kit to resolve my leaks and I'm so happy I did. It works like a charm. It's a firm gasket, not rubbery, so it is rigid when installing. It will torque down nicely though and it swells when it comes in contact with oil, making an even better seal. I wanted it because I knew that my crankcase pressures were higher than stock due to a bigger stroke on my crank and diameter on my pistons. Simply put, this gasket is extremely resistant to blowout and it seals well. I would also recommend the oil pan stud kit that they provide. If you need extended intake studs, you might as well get them while you are there too. They work great.
 
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Catman

New Member
I gotta question.. lol let's just say I'm one of the idiots that has done this same job on his car more than twice.. Can you really tighten the bolts down to factory specs 8.6 lb ft. of torque on each of the bolts? Every time I do and oil pan gasket I tightened the bolts to the factory spec and the gasket ALWAYS warps out from the oil pan causing an even worse leak. This gasket seems like it would work great but I'm just curious if you can really tighten the bolts down to 8.6.

Thanks.
 


lhd dc2

Taffeta White
I assume you could if you had an expensive nice torque wrench. But when I did mines, it was impossible on my cheap torque wrench. I just guessed by feeling it. 8.6lbs is almost like just hand tightening them and a few mm turn with the wrench.

Make sure you don't over tighten it, and tighten the bolts in sequence. I learned the hard way. Leak was worst than before.
 

Ganyon

Active Member
I found a way to avoid all the problems with the gasket bulging and moving around while trying to put the oil pan back on. I gave up on the rubber/nitrile stuff because it simply doesn't work well. If it holds a seal, it doesn't do it for long. Seriously, how many people with a b18 engine do you know that don't have oil pan leaks?.
Mine doesnt leak.
 

typerwhat

New Member
It's not a matter of 'if', it's a matter of 'when'

Mine doesnt leak.
Having been on the dealership service side, I can tell you that the Honda/Acura dealers go through gaskets like crazy. Customers are in multiple times for this repair, when in reality, it shouldn't ever be an issue. If your gasket is not leaking, that is wonderful news. I'm not one to put faith in its continuing to hold a seal, especially if you've done any serious work to the motor (cams, crank, rods, pistons, etc). Even a different tune can affect the crankcase pressures.

I am glad to hear that your oil pan gasket is sealing and giving you the carefree Christmas season one would hope all have when it comes to oil pan leaks. :)

My wife's LS is leaking oil at the gasket now... It's totally stock. I'm ordering another gasket from myhondahabit along with the stud kit as long as I'm going in there. It doesn't make sense to replacing a leaking rubber gasket with another rubber gasket. It's nice that the myhondahabit gasket goes on just like the OEM. Torque specs, pattern, Hondabond, and all are exactly the same. It makes it super easy to implement a new part when the process is the same.
 

SexySSBP

Kwicherbichen
^Same. I shall make a Fry meme when I'm not at work, lol. Only 2 posts, each containing a link to a product he goes on about...hmmmm....
 

Spawne32

Shut up baby, I know it!
Ive done mine 3 times now, finally got it to seal properly this last time after putting it on dry. Go with a victor reinz gasket, they make excellent products, my failpro oil pan gaskets kept cracking after some time, not sure why, even using a torque wrench. Alot of guys will tell you to lather on the honda bond all over the gasket and the engine block and this is a major NO. That gasket has to be installed dry to get it to seal properly.
 

Prozon

Kris
my failpro oil pan gaskets kept cracking after some time,
I see what you did there. 8)

I have a regular rubber oil pan gasket.. it has never leaked.. 8k on the motor.. boosted.. didn't torque to spec, just made it snug. I don't know why so many people have issues with this. OEM oil pan, tapped for the turbo feed.. uhmmmm so yeah.

Also, those two posts above, the ONLY posts by that user, OBVIOUSLY advertising a website I could have built better in my sleep.. I wouldn't send money to them if my life depended on it.
 
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