Heater Core Replacement

JAZ

New Member
My 95' GSR is leaking coolant on the passenger side floor. Most likely heater core? Far as I can tell I need to pull the dash to get at it. My real question is, do I have to remove the evaporator. I don't want to mess the the refrigerant if I don't have to. Any suprises, difficulties to look out for?
 

mirrorimg

Well-Known Member
The evaporator will need to be removed to get the heater core out. I had to get my system evacuated before starting and recharged afterwards.

You should not release the refrigerant into the atmosphere.
 

johnnymass

New Member
Take it to a shop and have the ac evacuated. And you'll have to remove the battery tray for us lhd people to remove the lines that run to the evaporator.

Also, depending in how long the system is open to atmosphere, tape off the lines to keep moisture and crude out
 

EyeKhan

¡AY, CARAMBA!
Don't forget to disconnect the battery. If you don't, your airbags may deploy. I'm actually doing the heater core replacement in my car a couple of days after Thanksgiving. Have patience and good luck to you!
 


JAZ

New Member
Thanks for the replies. I'm hoping to get the AC system evcacuated tomorrow.
Johnnymass, what is "lhd people?"
EyeKhan, good luck to you as well. Let me know how it goes, I'll do the same.

I have a broken rear motor mount I plan to replace at the same time, any experience with that??
 

Merlins Beard

*Beard not included
lhd (LHD) stands for left hand drive, the steering wheel is on the left side of the car.

and if you are talking about the mount behind the engine (attaching to the firewall) then i have heard there is no way to get access to it unless you take the engine out.
 

johnnymass

New Member
Wrong. On all accounts.

Motor mount is not on the fire wall, it's on the cradle/support that runs from the drivers side to passengers side. Also, it can be done without pulling the engine. Although it can be quite the biotch.

I tried mine a one time when I removed my transmission and had problems. When I installed my SC and had the manifold off was when I had enough room to get it done without cursing every little thing
 


DC2MAN1119

New Member
You can drop your heater core from under the dash. No need to remove the dash bro. Also the rear mount just take the intake manifold of and its connected to the SUBFRAME. It shouldn't be too hard. Just put a jack under the motor beforw removing it that way it doesn't move on you and the new one lines up.

Facepalm to all you people btw.

Sent from my M9300 using Tapatalk
 

Merlins Beard

*Beard not included
You can drop your heater core from under the dash. No need to remove the dash bro. Also the rear mount just take the intake manifold of and its connected to the SUBFRAME. It shouldn't be too hard. Just put a jack under the motor beforw removing it that way it doesn't move on you and the new one lines up.

Facepalm to all you people btw.

Sent from my M9300 using Tapatalk
I say facepalm to you because there is no way to remove the heater core without taking out the dash. It is impossible to remove the heater core without taking the dashboard out. If you can prove to me that you can take the heater core out without taking the dash out, I will give you $100.
I admit that I was wrong about the mount, but I just recently stripped 2 of my tegs down to the firewall and you do need to take the dash out to remove the heater core.
 

JAZ

New Member
Thanks for all the input. I'm headed out now to have the ac system evacuated. Probably won't get started until this weekend.
 

johnnymass

New Member
You may also need to take out the brace that runs in front of it.
Well maybe not need but it made it easier for me
 

JAZ

New Member
Got the heater core replaced and the motor mount replaced.

Taking the dash apart to replace the heater core was not that difficult, most connectors go back in obvious places. I was careful to put bolts in labeled bags so I remember where they go.

Motor mount replacement was made easier by having the heater core and control valve out of the way. Still a biatch, made more difficult because the first replacement mount did not line up properly. I had to take the bolts out of the T bracket to get it done but pretty easy with the right mount.

All went back together with two issues.
1. I could have sworn my gas gage went back to empty when the ignition was swithced off. Now it stays at the current level (I think)

2. My check engine lite is on. Throwing a code for 02 sensor. May have screwed it up by wrenching near it on the T bracket and may have got a little "gunk" spray on it. I'll replace it and see what happens. Car runs great.

Any experience with the gas gage not returning to empty when the ignition switched off? Thanks.
 
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