K3Ntegra
Member
I dis-assembled the brake caliper, and brake pads. I was unable to remove the rotor from the wheel hub.
I hit the rotor with a regular "claw hammer", to try and remove it from the hub. I know this is unwise, and I was foolishly frustrated.
I made sure that the brake caliper wasn't dangling from the brake line.
After giving up on trying to remove the rotor. I re-assembled everything as they were before.
Unfortunately I packed every equipment up before trying to start my car. Therefore I'd have to go back tomorrow morrning and inspect the brake assembly.
When I pushed in the brake pedal, then turned and held the key clockwise, there was no "ignition" sound.
The ABS light was. When I put (or wind) the driver & passenger door windshield, they went up very slowly, and I had use my hand to push the window up, to close them.
I read from a Google search to disconnect the batter for 5 minutes.
I'll admit it probably wasn't five minutes, but more like over 3 minutes, that I left the battery disconnected.
When I try to turn the car on, I noticed a clicking sound from the wheel well (or brake caliper), where I performed the diagnosis on.
I haven't tried resetting the "maintenance required" (oil change) light.
Before, I performed a "timing" on my distributor (link), to get the car to turn on, about a week ago.
Edit:
I recall that I compressed the brake piston, 20-30 minutes before I placed the tire onto the car with lug nuts. I used a braked pad and 3” C-Clamp to compress it.
I noticed 5-10 minutes before placing the tire and tightening the lug nuts, that the brake piston stuck out by 5 to 10mm. I had chosen not to recompress again, because I had already attached the brake pads into the brake brackets. The caliper fit fine, despite this mishap.
Correction on the diagnosis:
The clicking I hear each time I turn the key, seems to come from the engine bay, to the right of the battery; instead of the wheel well.
When I turns their key to the right by 1 unit, there is a beep that kind of sounds similar to a computer POST (power on self test). I noticed at least 3 beeps in the course of 1 second, after disconnecting and reconnecting the car battery cable, after 3 hours. These 3 beeps never came back.
Edit 2: After Googling, signs of dieing car battery power windows, the following website, I noticed that the clock light was more dim than usual.
I'll extract the battery and take it to Pep Boys. I did turn on the dash lights on and off, while inspecting the brake. If it it does turn out to be the battery, this will be the 2nd time in 7 years or 50,000 miles I've had to get a battery. Therefore should consider replacing the alternator?
I hit the rotor with a regular "claw hammer", to try and remove it from the hub. I know this is unwise, and I was foolishly frustrated.
I made sure that the brake caliper wasn't dangling from the brake line.
After giving up on trying to remove the rotor. I re-assembled everything as they were before.
Unfortunately I packed every equipment up before trying to start my car. Therefore I'd have to go back tomorrow morrning and inspect the brake assembly.
When I pushed in the brake pedal, then turned and held the key clockwise, there was no "ignition" sound.
The ABS light was. When I put (or wind) the driver & passenger door windshield, they went up very slowly, and I had use my hand to push the window up, to close them.
I read from a Google search to disconnect the batter for 5 minutes.
I'll admit it probably wasn't five minutes, but more like over 3 minutes, that I left the battery disconnected.
When I try to turn the car on, I noticed a clicking sound from the wheel well (or brake caliper), where I performed the diagnosis on.
I haven't tried resetting the "maintenance required" (oil change) light.
Before, I performed a "timing" on my distributor (link), to get the car to turn on, about a week ago.
Edit:
I recall that I compressed the brake piston, 20-30 minutes before I placed the tire onto the car with lug nuts. I used a braked pad and 3” C-Clamp to compress it.
I noticed 5-10 minutes before placing the tire and tightening the lug nuts, that the brake piston stuck out by 5 to 10mm. I had chosen not to recompress again, because I had already attached the brake pads into the brake brackets. The caliper fit fine, despite this mishap.
Correction on the diagnosis:
The clicking I hear each time I turn the key, seems to come from the engine bay, to the right of the battery; instead of the wheel well.
When I turns their key to the right by 1 unit, there is a beep that kind of sounds similar to a computer POST (power on self test). I noticed at least 3 beeps in the course of 1 second, after disconnecting and reconnecting the car battery cable, after 3 hours. These 3 beeps never came back.
Edit 2: After Googling, signs of dieing car battery power windows, the following website, I noticed that the clock light was more dim than usual.
I'll extract the battery and take it to Pep Boys. I did turn on the dash lights on and off, while inspecting the brake. If it it does turn out to be the battery, this will be the 2nd time in 7 years or 50,000 miles I've had to get a battery. Therefore should consider replacing the alternator?
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