maltedbarley
New Member
Supplies Needed:
~20 ft - 14 AWG Wire
Quick Splices (Unless you want to actually splice the wires)
SPDT Automotive relay (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002KR9GG)
Chassis Mount Resistor, High wattage, 1 ohm ( I used http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Arcol/HS150-1R0-1/?qs=oJqWk0A1%252bW1%2ffap1mjb9KA%3d%3d)
Female Quick Disconnects
Tips:
1. Always leave plenty of wire until you know that everything works and is finalized
2. Have a basic understanding of wiring
3. Plug the wire into the fusebox last
4. You don't need to use the resistor I posted, the higher the wattage rating, the cooler it will stay. 150W was the highest one available before a huge price jump. Just keep the Ohm rating the same.
Steps:
1. Run a wire through the firewall and to the fusebox, with a female quick disconnect at the end to plug into the ACC port on the fusebox (provides power whenever the key is turned to at least to ACC). The other end of this wire stays in the engine bay, and attaches to the 30 pin on the relay.
2. Run a wire to ground and attach to the 85 pin of the relay.
3. Run a wire from the 86 pin on the relay down the the sidemarkers. Splice into the hot (red) wire of the 1157 (larger) bulb.
4. Now comes the tricky part. Run a wire from the 87a pin to the resistor, which needs to be mounted somewhere where the heat coming from the resistor will not effect anything. I chose to mount it on the inside of the front bumper support, where it will stay cool and the heat won’t mess anything up. Then from the other end of the resistor, run a wire that splices into the red wire of the high beam. Splice into this wire, and run this wire to the other highbeam and splice into that as well.
5. Check all connections, trim wires, and mount the relay.
I chose to mount it in a threaded hole right by the windsheild wiper fluid reservoir.
Wiring diagram ( my first try at one)-
Cloudy Day Picture
Nighttime Picture (Not that you should be using these for headlights...)
I will add more pictures if requested.
Alternately, you could run the 86 pole to the headlight hot lead so the DRL stay on with the parking lights. Or you could put a switch in to the power, so you can turn them off to save your battery when the car isn't on.
Voila, you have proper DRLs that shut off with the parking lights, and maintain full use of the high beams.
And yes, I know that there is a way to wire multiple relays to switch between parallel and series circuits to avoid the use of a resistor, but that seemed too much work and wiring to me.
Any questions, comments, or advice, feel free to leave a message.
~20 ft - 14 AWG Wire
Quick Splices (Unless you want to actually splice the wires)
SPDT Automotive relay (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002KR9GG)
Chassis Mount Resistor, High wattage, 1 ohm ( I used http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Arcol/HS150-1R0-1/?qs=oJqWk0A1%252bW1%2ffap1mjb9KA%3d%3d)
Female Quick Disconnects
Tips:
1. Always leave plenty of wire until you know that everything works and is finalized
2. Have a basic understanding of wiring
3. Plug the wire into the fusebox last
4. You don't need to use the resistor I posted, the higher the wattage rating, the cooler it will stay. 150W was the highest one available before a huge price jump. Just keep the Ohm rating the same.
Steps:
1. Run a wire through the firewall and to the fusebox, with a female quick disconnect at the end to plug into the ACC port on the fusebox (provides power whenever the key is turned to at least to ACC). The other end of this wire stays in the engine bay, and attaches to the 30 pin on the relay.
2. Run a wire to ground and attach to the 85 pin of the relay.
3. Run a wire from the 86 pin on the relay down the the sidemarkers. Splice into the hot (red) wire of the 1157 (larger) bulb.
4. Now comes the tricky part. Run a wire from the 87a pin to the resistor, which needs to be mounted somewhere where the heat coming from the resistor will not effect anything. I chose to mount it on the inside of the front bumper support, where it will stay cool and the heat won’t mess anything up. Then from the other end of the resistor, run a wire that splices into the red wire of the high beam. Splice into this wire, and run this wire to the other highbeam and splice into that as well.
5. Check all connections, trim wires, and mount the relay.
I chose to mount it in a threaded hole right by the windsheild wiper fluid reservoir.
Wiring diagram ( my first try at one)-
Cloudy Day Picture
Nighttime Picture (Not that you should be using these for headlights...)
I will add more pictures if requested.
Alternately, you could run the 86 pole to the headlight hot lead so the DRL stay on with the parking lights. Or you could put a switch in to the power, so you can turn them off to save your battery when the car isn't on.
Voila, you have proper DRLs that shut off with the parking lights, and maintain full use of the high beams.
And yes, I know that there is a way to wire multiple relays to switch between parallel and series circuits to avoid the use of a resistor, but that seemed too much work and wiring to me.
Any questions, comments, or advice, feel free to leave a message.
Last edited:
