Caliper won't retract, is it time to replace?

ITR01

New Member
When I was replacing the brake pads on my rear passenger side, trying to retract the piston was nearly impossible. I used that socket insert thats like a cube to try to turn it but would not budge a bit. Tried flat head screwdrivers, chisels, clamps, the whole nine. This side has always been getting going through brake pads but as of a couple months ago found out there was a tear in my pin boot so all the grease let out, so I thought that was the reason for going to pads fast. Since then I replaced all the boots, guide pins, pads, and rotor. The fact that I cannot retract the piston all the way mean I need a new rear caliper? Or am I just not trying hard enough? Let me know what you think. Should I just buy a new caliper? Thanks.
 
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Muckman

Not a M0derator
If its harder to turn then the other rear caliper than something is wrong. You can rebuild calipers which are often cheaper than replacing the whole thing. And usually replacement calipers are reman's which are awful, especially for an ITR. While new OEM will cost you a fortune. So try the rebuild route first.
 

ITR01

New Member
So what problems do you think can start because of that? I hear a lil squeling when driving at low speeds at that corner but i have new brak pads. With the piston not retract will that sacrifice stopping power? Cause that side has been wearing out the pads faster, does that mean I'm brake while I am driving?
 

Muckman

Not a M0derator
Yes, if its not retracting then its going to always drag on that corner. You may want to invest in an infrared thermometer for track days. With it you can easily prove/disprove this theory as that corner should be hotter than the other rear if its dragging.
 


ITR01

New Member
Thanks for the advice! However I was thinking if I use a temp sensor for that side, wouldn't that side be normally hotter anyway for it is right next to the exhaust?
 
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