Potential damages

nayy

Member
This screw on valve cover is completely stripped will have to be replaced



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nayy

Member


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About to start taking wheel off to get to the crankshaft pully and see what the timing mark shows on it will post a pic of that when i get to it

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nayy

Member
Ok i got a few more questions, i have the haynes manual for the car and it says "do not rotate the camshaft or crankshaft sprockets with the timing belt off or valve damage may result from the valves hitting the tops of pistons" so my question is, if the timing is not correct, am i supposed to take off the sprockets and reinstall them with all timing marks aligned, without rotating the crankshaft and camshafts? And also am i supposed to have the belt on a certain sproket tooth? The book says that if i inted to reuse the belt to make identifying marks on both belt and sprokets to match them up durring reinstallation, but if timing is wrong then this would be unnecessary correct? Or am i thinking about this in the wrong way? Sorry about all the pictures and questions im just really interested in this now and really want to learn how to do this on my own

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R13

The other asshole
Do you happen to have a torque wrench?
 


R13

The other asshole
It's easier, and safer to remove the cam caps, remove the cams, rotate the crank around to the timing mark, and reinstall the cams.

Getting the cams lined up might be a bit tricky, but nothing crazy hard. If they're not perfect keep in mind how much one "tooth" changes the position, get it as close as you can, then they should line up as you tighten the cam caps back down.

Now I haven't heard much about this happening to other people, but I personally have had one of the bolts that holds the cam caps down snap off on two different occasions. Usually they'll snap off close to the head or in such a way that you can take the cap back off and twist the broken part out with pliers, but just a heads up if you do end up having to remove the belt and set the timing marks. Those bolts are like $4 each from Honda, but new ones aren't nearly as brittle as old ones that have been removed a time or two and retorqued.
 

dc2GS-R

Super Moderator
I found a "mechanic" who told me he could have it up and running in a few days after picking it up from my house.
but i did notice that one of the bolts on the distributor was loose about 3 threads exposed
he stripped one of the nuts on there and it wont come off.going to have to cut it out
This bolt is the motor mount and it is not all the way in
Both bottom bolts on distributor were loose
This screw on valve cover is completely stripped will have to be replaced
I think I'd be sure to never take my car to that guy again. I would also not pay him one cent for shoddy work like that.
 


nayy

Member
Ok fellas havent posted all week because of work but heres what i have so far, crankshaft sprocket isnt lined up with the pointer on theoil pump casing





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nayy

Member
My question now is, do i take off the belt, and camslike stated by R13, align the crankshaft, replace cams and belt and see what it does or is there something else i should do?

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nayy

Member
Well unfortunatly i had to call ot a day. I went ahead and took of the belt, cams and rotated the crank sprocket to line up the timing mark to the pointer on the oil pump set the exhaust side cam back in place got it to stayin the up position by jaming an allen wrench into it while i put the cam caps back on. Hand tightened them in place no problem. Proceded to reinstall the intake side cam got it to line up with the exhaust side jamed it like before went to put the caps back on started the bolts as far as i could by hand but rhere were still gaps in between the head and caps but had not sign of cross threading so far. So i figured i would get them to keep turning with the wrench until the point that i needed to use torque wrench and torque it to spec. But as i was tightened down with the regular wrench, i heard a pop and next thing i notice the intake camshaft had snapped at the i4 cap not sure why or what cause it everything seemed fine, well anyway, i took the capbolts of by hand no problem so it couldnt have been cross threading, besides that i have the crank and exhaust cam in place until i get a replacement cam to finish putting it alk back together

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nayy

Member
The actual cam shaft snapped? Can you post a pic when you can?
Crap i thought i did post a pic and yes the camshaft snapped for some reason, but i had no problem with the exhaust cam at all



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nayy

Member
I can physically hold the camshaft i 2 parts

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R13

The other asshole
What the hell?

That's a first.

Well shit... were you tightening it down by the right pattern?
 
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