2000 White GSR Sedan

BoostWanted

New Member
Hey guys, I'm interested in this 4 door gsr I saw today and want to get but I'm curious as to what you guys think is a good price. It's all stock except H&R springs, skunk 2 cam seals, skunk2 shift knob, repainted white, has slight damage front right bumper and a small dent on chrome strip of one door. It has 166k miles. There might be more done to it but even exhaust and intake are stock. What do you guys think? He's asking 6k. It's also on blades. Will be test driving it Friday and Ill get pictures to post of it tonight/tomorrow.
 

BoostWanted

New Member
I'll post pictures but with that mileage what'd you think? An s2k would be cool, but I like dem 4 doors.
 


cpeehler7

Banned
I'll post pictures but with that mileage what'd you think? An s2k would be cool, but I like dem 4 doors.
Just to give you an idea, I paid $3000 for a 98 GSR with 140,000 miles in completely stock shape. Seems to me like $4000 is the high end on the car, $6000 is just way over what you should pay. If the guy is willing to come down below $4,000 it may be worth it though. Give it a drive, and be willing to walk lol
 

BoostWanted

New Member
Just to give you an idea, I paid $3000 for a 98 GSR with 140,000 miles in completely stock shape. Seems to me like $4000 is the high end on the car, $6000 is just way over what you should pay. If the guy is willing to come down below $4,000 it may be worth it though. Give it a drive, and be willing to walk lol
Good info. :\ I was looking for a white one awhile back and picked up an EG 4 door because I couldn't find one and this guy just decided to sell it and hasnt even put in on CL yet. I hope he'll go lower, but it does look pretty clean. In Washington, btw if that affects generic pricing lol.
 

cpeehler7

Banned
Good info. :\ I was looking for a white one awhile back and picked up an EG 4 door because I couldn't find one and this guy just decided to sell it and hasnt even put in on CL yet. I hope he'll go lower, but it does look pretty clean. In Washington, btw if that affects generic pricing lol.
Look at this for sale thread. I think you'll like the looks of this car, I saw it for sale on ... the other integra forum. Looks very clean, and has a K24 engine in it. There is a build thread on the forum if you want a link to that too, so you can see how well or poor everything was done to the car.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/251639413880?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649

Apparently it's many thousands of miles away from you. Still worth keeping an eye on to see how much a very well done GSR sedan goes for.
 


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BoostWanted

New Member
Look at this for sale thread. I think you'll like the looks of this car, I saw it for sale on ... the other integra forum. Looks very clean, and has a K24 engine in it. There is a build thread on the forum if you want a link to that too, so you can see how well or poor everything was done to the car.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/251639413880?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649

Apparently it's many thousands of miles away from you. Still worth keeping an eye on to see how much a very well done GSR sedan goes for.
Dang, thanks for that find! I'll be moving to florida next year, so if that was sooner... That'd be the one! Anything GSR/Integra common things I should check for when I see it?
 

DCiFound

SEAHAWKS!!
Hey, im local to u. What part of WA? Im in tacoma area

The price is super high. Its basically stock and the parts on it, doesnt cost much. He is probably trying to get his money back on the parts he got. Matching VIN#s on fenders, doors(on the jam as well), trunk lid, hood, transmission(green tag, thats the tranny vin not motor). See if he is willing to let u take it to a mechanic for a compression test and leaks. They can check the block VIN# when its on the lift. If u can afford it, carfax. Wont show everything, but will show where the car was from, how many owners, if its a rebuilt title due to theft or frame damage. Check headlight lenses for HONDA stamp. This way, u would know if its been in a frontal accident. Honda logo on all windows.

But if nothing like that matters, then drive it kinda hard. Shift from 2nd to 3rd gear around 6500 rpms to see if the synchros are grinding. It should shift smooth without any problems. Check oil cap for white residue(HG leaking). Other than that, good luck
 

BoostWanted

New Member
Hey, im local to u. What part of WA? Im in tacoma area

The price is super high. Its basically stock and the parts on it, doesnt cost much. He is probably trying to get his money back on the parts he got. Matching VIN#s on fenders, doors(on the jam as well), trunk lid, hood, transmission(green tag, thats the tranny vin not motor). See if he is willing to let u take it to a mechanic for a compression test and leaks. They can check the block VIN# when its on the lift. If u can afford it, carfax. Wont show everything, but will show where the car was from, how many owners, if its a rebuilt title due to theft or frame damage. Check headlight lenses for HONDA stamp. This way, u would know if its been in a frontal accident. Honda logo on all windows.

But if nothing like that matters, then drive it kinda hard. Shift from 2nd to 3rd gear around 6500 rpms to see if the synchros are grinding. It should shift smooth without any problems. Check oil cap for white residue(HG leaking). Other than that, good luck
That sounds reasonable, yea. I'll definitely see about getting it checked at a mechanic, how much does that usually run? And I'm on Whidbey Island, about hour and a half or 2 north of ya. And I suppose I can get a carfax.

While typing this I went ahead and got one and its been instate, had 6 owners, since 2004. One accident with front left damage, I didn't see anything of that damage when I looked at it earlier although it was just a short look.

The following done at 101k miles
Antifreeze/coolant flushed/changed
Thermostat replaced
Spark plug(s) replaced
Distributor cap/rotor replaced
Thermostat housing/gasket replaced
Spark plug wires replaced
Antifreeze/coolant checked
Crankshaft oil seal(s) replaced
Camshaft seal(s) replaced
Brake rotor(s)/drum(s) resurfaced
Rear brakes serviced/adjusted
Rear brake pads replaced
Radiator hose(s) replaced
Timing belt replaced

And the current guy has had it for 3 years apparently.
 

DCiFound

SEAHAWKS!!
Nice, do the miles closely march? After 10yrs, they dont take mileage into account at the DMV. Lol about the owners. Im the 7th owner of mine and the car was local bought in bellevue. I have a mechanic i go to and he charges half an hr labor for a pre buyers inspection and another half hr for a compression test. The main thing to look for is rear main seal. Mine is is leaking oil at 150k.

I was looking for something on craiglist and saw a 97 white sedan with 177k for $6500. He is in bothell. Dont compare his price to the 2000. He has beeen flagged cus he is asking that Stupid Price :lol:
 

BoostWanted

New Member
Nice, do the miles closely march? After 10yrs, they dont take mileage into account at the DMV. Lol about the owners. Im the 7th owner of mine and the car was local bought in bellevue. I have a mechanic i go to and he charges half an hr labor for a pre buyers inspection and another half hr for a compression test. The main thing to look for is rear main seal. Mine is is leaking oil at 150k.

I was looking for something on craiglist and saw a 97 white sedan with 177k for $6500. He is in bothell. Dont compare his price to the 2000. He has beeen flagged cus he is asking that Stupid Price :lol:
Last Mileage check was 03/2011 and 140k and he got it 10/2011. So I definitely should be prepared to walk even though deep in my loins I want it :cry:. And the guy has 2 kids and actively has 2 car seats in the rear, so I mean that might be good news for how he drives most often.
 

DCiFound

SEAHAWKS!!
Doesnt hurt to check it out and kick the tires. Check the clutch pedal. If its worn lightly, then the miles is legit. Now, there is 3 things that a zeller will do when u bring up, can i have my mechanic look at it. They will either 1) convince u it doesnt need to be checked, 2) agree until the day before to say its sold or they dont have time, 3) they follow throigh cus they want to know amd have nothing to hide.

It took me 2 yrs to find my Black Kat. I have a build thread. U can see what 2yrs of patience looks like. I wasnt in a hurry, cus i have another car
 

BoostWanted

New Member
Doesnt hurt to check it out and kick the tires. Check the clutch pedal. If its worn lightly, then the miles is legit. Now, there is 3 things that a zeller will do when u bring up, can i have my mechanic look at it. They will either 1) convince u it doesnt need to be checked, 2) agree until the day before to say its sold or they dont have time, 3) they follow throigh cus they want to know amd have nothing to hide.

It took me 2 yrs to find my Black Kat. I have a build thread. U can see what 2yrs of patience looks like. I wasnt in a hurry, cus i have another car
While looking up other information I went through all three links in your sig ;D Really good info in all of them actually, that tail light mod is awesommmeee. I'll be seeing him tomorrow to drive the car and might have a friend who knows more come with me friday to see what he thinks about it. I didn't even think about the whole pedal wear thing. And right now I actually have 2 EG sedans lol. I'll be keeping one, so I can afford to have one down for a bit haha.
 

DCiFound

SEAHAWKS!!
Thanks playa and good luck tomorrow...or shall i say, later today :)

I would recommend a relay on the taillight mod. For some reason, inside both bulbs for the brake, the element that glows when u press on the brake is melting at the prongs. Other bulbs are fine and still look new. Im confused on that part. However, i just removed my spoiler and have new bulbs to put in. Im testing to see if this mod is drawing to much power for the brakes with a 3rd brake light. Im confused until i see this new experiment. If it works or doesnt, i will update that thread accordingly.
 
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