TPS Calibration Issues, Rotation Maxed out

Hi everyone and thanks for looking,

So I recently have been having a few TPS related issues such as delayed throttle response which would result in the car jerking then finally getting up to speed. No CEL though.

Checked the voltage on the original TPS using some articles on this and other creditable websites. I used a T-tap to tap into the red wire and then used a length of wire with a spade on one end and connector on the other. Plugged the spade into the tap and the prong of the multimeter into the other end. Ground prong on the multimeter went to the battery ground.

The original TPS read CT: .80 WOT: 4.92. This is well out of spec. But after installing the new TPS and trying to calibrate it, I can only get .48 CT ~4.66 WOT. This is way better but still bit out of spec which I read was CT: 4.6-5 WOT: 4.5. I read that you set WOT first, lock down the TPS and then adjusted CT via the allen head adjuster on the throttle side.

My issues is that im getting those numbers (.48 CT ~4.66 WOT) and the TPS is fully maxed out to one direction. The adjuster only makes both the CT and WOT readings increase. I feel like modifying the TPS sensor would not be the right choice.

Suggestions or inside? I really appreciate it

Update:

I went ahead and installed the throttle body back and tightened the throttle cable a bit. The accelerator pedal not only feels higher (farther away from the floor) but a bit more responsive. Over all the car felt pretty with only 2 dips below normal idle RPM. Still no CEL. I checked timing and it is still good.

After the drive I checked the TPS again (w/ throttle body installed) This time CT: .55 WOT:4.68 So I dont understand how simply installing the TB could make the reading increase. Also the throttle cable doesn't have any affect on the TPS position as I full removed the cable just to see if the reading would change.

Update:

Yesterday, on a cooler day <50deg the car felt fine, strong even. I drove normally. My commute is 45mins to and from work.

Today, on a bit of a warmer day, it started off normally, then at a stop light I felt the engine kind of shake more and my CEL came on w/ these codes

P0303: Generic cyl 3 misfire
P0304: Generic cyl 4 misfire
P1300: Honda Random misfire
P1399: Honda Random cyl misfire

Valve adj was done about 3k miles ago. Plugs are brand new. Wires are NGK Blues less than 50K miles on them
The car now has a "herky-jerky" feeling even worse than before, like whenever I letoff the gas in the slightest it has no power, doesn't bog but doesn't go anywhere, when I press the gas again, it comes on strong reving up. Its making stop and go traffic very difficult.

I plan on check the TPS again. Could this be a MAP issue Not sure if the warm weather has anything to do with it. What about crank positioning sensor?

Update:

Checked the old TPS for any dead spots in voltage. Didnt see any, so I popped out the metal rings in the mounting holes and drilled them out a bit to make them wider.

This seemed to work and I was able to get with in the .5CT 4.5WOT range. Almost spot on. Noticed idle was high on start up but its very cold where I am. Once the car warmed up to op temp, the idle was still really high and it would surge up and down any time I was at a stop. The exhaust smells very very rich.

Any help? I really need it. Thanks