'93 Integ racer - Stalling at WOT, 4th/5th Gear

More good points. We run straight water with "wetter additive". We even tried a run without the front bumper for maximum cooling, same results. Coolant temps are fine. I understand actual block & oil temps could be higher. We need to run oil temp gauge. Should already have it, but we've gotten by well so far.

We could try running 100 octane to see if that changes anything. Should rule out spark knock - didn't think of that.

Hi.. New here also. I'm running a 90 teg in chump lemons as well. West coast though! Would like to exchange some emails with you as far as set ups!
First race with our car had the ignition switch go bad. Started with surging/loss of power, ended with car not running at all in run. Ignition switch may not be your problem but reccome d replacing as Soon as possible.

Hi, good to meet you. We have been sharing info with some of the East/Midwest Integra teams, and would be happy to help you out. Watch for PM.

Interesting about the ignition switch. We just pulled our ignition cyl and the engine wiring harness. I've got the Honda manual here to ID necessary wiring. Next steps are to install an ignition/start switch panel + oil press/temp, fuel press, coolant temp, and volt gauges. We will be eliminating most of the dash, and as much factory wiring as possible.

Best of luck with your car at the next race!

More video up on YouTube showing the stalling issue. I'm noticing accept for #2, the stalls are spaced about 1:08 mins apart, and it doesn't seem to correspond to a specific location on the track. Link:

http://youtu.be/LtNYyddLnaU

We've pulled the wiring harness for and ignition wiring for inspection, and are in the process of adding gauges and removing parts of the dash. Looking to test on track next weekend.

Thanks for the helpful advice so far.

It is obviously either electrical...but I wonder if oil pressure could be casing something....my car had a severe bog issue and power cut issue and it turned out to be oil pressure related, but I think yours is electrical like they say. Why under load though is whats interesting. Only a few sensors will kill the car if they get unplugged(I am at work and don't have a list on hand) so maybe look in to those first. It isn't uncommon for solder inside of sensors to melt during racing heat, especially 24 hour races. It could be something as silly as a map sensor just being shot. You never know. If this were my car I would probably inspect every single fuse, buy some relays, maybe a few sensors that are known to kill the motor and go test again.

Thanks, Nick. I appreciate the post! MAP sensor can easily be replaced. Any other sensors you can think of that could cause this, please post. The solder idea is interesting; really difficult to test for this. Assuming this would most likely occur near exhaust manifold and pipe. All wiring in the harness appears intact and not melted or cracked.

We are installing oil pressure and temp gauges, so next test should have that info on video real-time.

I think we'll replace all fuses. Good idea there. Thanks again! Please post if you have any other thoughts.

Aaron

It is going to be something silly and everyone will go "ohhhhh yeah". I will compile a list of sensors after work. There aren't many that will actually kill the car though.

Since this is a track car, if you're on a system where you can tune the a/f completely off the TPS I would go that route. That will help eliminate any sensors related to the manifold pressure that might be screwing things up.

We're using the stock ECU for fueling at this time. If we can't resolve the issue, we may look into other A/F management options. The wiring harness appears to be in good shape, and ignition wiring has been simplified (key switch deleted). We're hoping for a test day this weekend.

Here's another video with a different driver: http://youtu.be/ZGmPMHLXNcU

What seems to be happening here, this driver is taking it easier on the car for the first few laps. This delays the stalling onset. Then, after warming up, it happens again. The last stall (#3 @ 13.20) is completely different because the driver does not turn off ignition. The car goes into some kind of soft limiting mode. Might be a good clue, but we don't know what it means.

Hmm you sure there's not a knock sensor connected?

No knock sensor on our B18A1. We rebuilt the engine and transmission this summer, after racing the car 3-4 times per year since 2009.

Nick, were you able to find that list of sensors?

I had a list before but I am not sure what happened to it. Might be on my old computer. I made the list by doing something pretty simple. I started the car and then unplugged a sensor and wrote down whether or not it shut the car off. Then I would plug it back in, start the car again and try another sensor. I did this until I went through them all. Tedious I know.