wheel stud removal and wheel hub removal

jsleeper81

New Member
Hey guys, It's been a while since I been on here my computer crashed.
Anyways I have a 1996 lsvtec I was replacing the front brakes yesterday and got through the passanger side fine with the exeptions that I have to rebuild the caliper.
I started on the drivers side and every stud was striped out I noticed as I pulled the wheel off for the first time.
I got every thing down to the wheel hub now I have already taken the nut off that holds the spline end of the axle in I thought that is what held the hub in place but I can't get it to budge loose.
I've heard you can replace the studs with out taking the hub off but it does not look possible the bearing housing seems to be in the way of pulling the old ones out and can not grind them down due to no room in between there.
Is there a way I can get this hub off with out having to take the whole arm and hub down to a shop and have it pressed off?
If the hub is pulled out will it mess up the bearings they seem to be in good condition from what I can hear there was never no rubbing or grinding from what I heard.
 

PogKai

B20VTEC
Yes its possible to install a front wheel stud without taking the whole hub apart..

If you searched I wrote it some days ago:

http://www.clubintegra.com/board/showthread.php?t=18092&page=2&highlight=wheel+stud

if it the front you can hammer it to take it out, since most of the time it's broken and it's smaller so it will just pop out in the back. to fit one new full length one you need to crush the dust shield thing and grind the new stud like a half moon at the base.. the part that was grinded facing toward the hub and put it on back and finally use a lug nut and it's done.
 

jsleeper81

New Member
okey this is the post that I read the other day I think I can get it in now how about taking them out mine are actually full stud just extremely stripped out also how safe would it be to grind a half a moon out would'nt that defeat the purpose of what they are there for also last question if I do end up having to pull the hub will I have to replace the whell bearing
 

95teggg

New Member
I would like to know how you guys did this without removing the hub. I dont care what anyone says, there is NO room. i cant even knock the old stud out let alone replace it. I tried removing my hub and broke the slide hammer tool that was $140. help would be great
 


Jabes

Member
if it won't come out with the tool your going to need to get the whole knuckle off by taking off the upper and lower control arm bolts and any other ones that are holding it on and get the hub pressed out
 

Merlins Beard

*Beard not included
you have to take the knuckle off by undoing the lower ball joint, upper ball joint, and tie rod bolt. the hub is pressed in so it would be very hard to just pop off.
 


NeroCB7

Honda Lover
spend the extra money and get your hub pressed out at a local shop or a honda dealer the thing with grinding down the studand hammering back in is a bad idea trust me ive done it and its dangerous plus bending that heat shield back to place is a pain in the ass get it pressed out buy some new wheel bearings press it back in with new studs and your a go go
 

95teggg

New Member
Can you guys post pics or a link to remove the hub assembly so I can take it to a shop. That would be great.
 

Merlins Beard

*Beard not included
I did this whole thing like a week ago so feel free to PM me if you have any questions. youjust do this:

TOOLS: hammer, chisel/flat blade screwdriver/punch, breaker bar (cheater pole will work also), 135+ ft/lbs torque wrench (recommended), 32mm socket, 17mm socket, 14mm socket, 10mm socket, some pliers, and some string. (a bearing/wheel puller is VERY helpful and i highly recommend it but is not required)
here is my brand new how to on this (i made it just for you)
1: determine if your axle nuts are covered by a dust cap

2: if they do, take your wheel off and remove the cap, otherwise just remove your wheel

3: using a chisel/flat blade screwdriver/punch hammer out the notch in the nut

4: remove the center cap on your wheel and replace wheel on car (make sure you have access to the nut)

5: place the car back on the ground and undo the axle nuts using the 32mm socket and the breaker bar, they don not have to be taken all the way off but loosen them enough to be able to remove them with the wheels off the car

6: remove the wheels and place them aside, then remove the axle nuts

7: using the 14mm (?) socket remove the brake caliper and caliper bracket and support the caliper in some manner (in the pic above you can see that i tied mine up to the upper control arm, do not let your caliper hang by the brake line as it can damage it)

8: remove the brake rotor by pulling it off just like you would with a wheel (it might need some persuasion from Mr. Hammer) *NOTE: the brake rotor may have one or two small screws holding it in place-these will have to be removed and are not needed in reassembly

9: use the 10mm socket and remove all of the abs and brake lines attached to the part (with abs there should be a total of 6 bolts- 2 on the sensor, 2 on the wires leading from the sensor, and 2 attached to the brake line)

10: using pliers remove the cotter pins in the castle nuts in the three circled areas in the pic, then proceed and only loosen the three nuts with the 17mm socket

11: break loose the joints located in the three circles, it will be the tie rod end joint, upper ball joint, and lower ball joint. replacing these three is highly recommended. to separate these joints without damaging them is difficult but can be done using the bearing/wheel puller (doing this is time consuming, frustrating, and scary. only do this if you are re-using these joints) keep the nut on the end of the shaft and keep cranking on the puller until it comes apart. if you are going to replace these joints remove the nut and just keep pounding on the shaft of the joint with the hammer until it separates

12: once the three joints are loose move the tie rod end out of the way (it will just be hanging out like in the pic), then while your moving the upper control arm upwards, make sure to hold the knuckle to keep it from falling, without letting go or pulling on the knuckle (an extra set of hands can help a lot) lift it so the lower ball joint can be removed from the lower control arm, now slowly pull the knuckle off the axle while at the same time pushing it out through the center of the hub. *NOTE: be very careful not to pull too hard on the axle or the cv joints can separate

13: sit back and think about how much your car now looks like mine in the picture, then take your stuff to the shop

To reassemble: do the steps backwards for the most part, i will list the differences in the order you will encounter them in

1: the upper and lower ball joints (if you are replacing them with new parts) need to be pressed in - this can easily be done at home with a ball joint press kit (autozone rental- $130 deposit which you get back when you return it)

2: if your getting new tie rod ends, you will need to loosen the lock nut and simply un-thread the old tie rod and thread in the new one. after it is installed make sure to re-tighten the lock nut. *NOTE: you will also most likely need an alignment done after the new tie rod ends are installed

3: it goes without saying but use all new cotter pins

4: once the knuckle is back on and secure, replace the brake rotors and put the wheels back on the car. lower the car back onto the ground and tighten the axle nuts (should be replaced). torque them to 135 ft*lbs. raise the car back up and remove the wheels again and make sure to hammer a new notch into the axle nut using a punch


And they all lived happily ever after.

THE END​
 

sage0021

New Member
was quoted $250 to do this by a shop. Been driving around on 3 lugs up front for a week now. My car is only supposed to last through this winter then probably scrap. is it absolutely necessary to fix the broken stud? what are others paying at the shop to do this?
 

Merlins Beard

*Beard not included
well i suppose it is not necessary, however youre more prone to loose the other lugs since there is more strain on them. they can shear off or get stripped and fall out. its a good idea to replace them but if your getting rid of the car after winter i guess its not something you need to have done. keep a close eye on them and if any of the other ones break or keep coming lose then i would replace them
 

Integra4eva

Speed Limits r 4 chumps
Stud issues

I was looking for a write-up like this ever since I realized that I have a broken stud.I bout my 99 LS in July and I had the same issue with it not being able to knock it out.I pretty much said fuck it.And seeing as Im trading for a gsr this weekend..Its not on my head anymore. :lol: I have the new stud riding round in my car for a while.smh..Well at least some1 found resolution to this.I'll probably utilize this if I have another stud break in the future.

Oh and i have done about 2-3k miles on the broken stud..so to answer that question as long as the 4th is in the whole its not a life and death requirement. I also dont recommend doing track type driving everyday though ;)
 
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