I wouldn't say THAT necessarily. Headstuds don't mean crap if they have to be retorqued when he makes changes . Make sure all other maintainence is in order. Oil/water pumps, fuel filter, fix any leaks, be it fluid or exhaust, clean the engine bay. Note, you're putting slightly more stress to these components when going boost. Compression and leakdown tests help determine the motor's health ahead of time.. etc.
If you want to start on something now, get an upgraded clutch now so that when you install the new kit, you already have the clutch broken in. Make sure it is a stage or so higher than stock. When boosting, you're averaging about75-80 additional foot/lbs of torque. That stock unit won't last long. Make sure you resurface your stock flywheel when installing the new clutch.
Also ensure that your brakes are up to the task. If the pads or worn or the rotors warped, replace these now. There no point in trying to go fast if you can't stop safely. Remember, most kits make over 70% MORE hp than what you originally had. Stopping equipment should be reconditioned and up to par. You don't have to get a big brake kit or anything, just better pads and good set of blank rotors. If the budget doesn't allow, "turn" your current rotors (resurfaced).
You can even go so far as to installing a couple of guages that are needed, like BOOST, oil pressure, and eventually EGT without tapping the header for the probe. Then you can get used to the readouts and be able to understand them at a quick glance.