Suspension Upgrade / Mainly Daily Driver

bolts could get over tightened and lead to bushings wearing out and resistance to suspension travel. Or too loose and have slop or bolts back out. But you are good to go now that you got the proper specs hahaha

dlo253 said:

bolts could get over tightened and lead to bushings wearing out and resistance to suspension travel. Or too loose and have slop or bolts back out. But you are good to go now that you got the proper specs hahaha

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That's what I figured. I was just curious as to what would happen. I think he last guy missed the part of my thread about buying the proper tools and doing it right haha. Will post pictures once I get it done tomorrow. Hopefully will have the front done next weekend. Thanks for the help.

Right on man, good luck. Haha.
No problem. :thumbs up

So I need some urgent help... Snapped the bolt at the bottom of the strut on the control arm. What the hell should I do...

Every bolt is totally seized on here.

Alright, so here's the deal. We have a good impact gun, (Air Cat 1200K) 120psi compressor. It would not budge the bolt connecting the strut to the lca, the bolt furthest outside on the LCA (under the brakes), and the single bolt on the camber kit.

Tried to use a breaker bar, which snapped the head off of the strut bolt. The camber kit bolt was turning with the breaker bar, but snapped in half... So, I guess the plan now is to have a shop replace the bolts we can't get off... Sucks.

I figured the impact gun would do the trick on those damn bolts. Guess they're all really rusted to hell. Any advice is appreciated hah.

Did you soak the bolts with pb blast or WD 40 over night?

It's recommended you do that for any bolt you're going to take off.
Makes the job alot easier.

SoundEfx said:

Did you soak the bolts with pb blast or WD 40 over night?

It's recommended you do that for any bolt you're going to take off.
Makes the job alot easier.

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Soaked them with PB blaster. Some of the bolts came right off, but the one on the strut did not. Just snapped the head right off. The single bolt on the camber kit was moving with a breaker bar, saw the threads moving, but just snapped midway down the bolt. I might just have to have a shop with the right tools get those out and replaced. Then once all the new bolts are in start over again. Sucks, but I guess that's what happens to a 15 year old car that's in NY.

Ryan659 said:

:lol: if you don't know what you're doing, then stop doing it until you find the right way to do it

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I better stop working on my car then. lol
Most of the work that I have done, I had no experience, zero, zilch, naughta...

SoundEfx said:

Did you soak the bolts with pb blast or WD 40 over night?

It's recommended you do that for any bolt you're going to take off.
Makes the job alot easier.

Click to expand...

I was going to suggest that

cpeehler7 said:

Soaked them with PB blaster. Some of the bolts came right off, but the one on the strut did not. Just snapped the head right off. The single bolt on the camber kit was moving with a breaker bar, saw the threads moving, but just snapped midway down the bolt. I might just have to have a shop with the right tools get those out and replaced. Then once all the new bolts are in start over again. Sucks, but I guess that's what happens to a 15 year old car that's in NY.

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That's what Im always afraid of when working with rusted bolts/nuts

Try the route of an E-Z out and see if you can get the bolt stud out. If your not familiar with the tool, go to a hardware store for the tool. Its a drill bit that the threads going in the opposite direction. Its not for drilling, its for broken bolt stud that you cant get out. First, you drill a hole in the center of the bolt stud. Use the E-Z out and thread it into the pre drilled hole(making sure its not bigger than the E-Z out) counterclockwise, its eating into the bolt and will get tighter. Just keep turning and pray that the bolt breaks loose.

If you can get the suspension parts that has the broken bolts off the car. It should make it a bit easier to get the bolt stud out. Soak part of the suspension with the broken bolt in strong solvents(something that eats through rust). Im sure this is what the shop would do, if they don't convince you to buy replacement parts

This is just an idea for a cheaper route, unless your already set on taking it to a shop

I bought an EZ out kit, might give that a try soon. The camber kit bolt seems like it's going to be hard to fix. That probably needs to be cut out. I probably will have to bring my car to a shop though, starting a new job next week... Luckily I can probably bum a car for a few days, but not sure how long that will last. Has to be done pretty quick.

Quick question about heating the bolts. Obviously can't put an open flame on the brake lines, but would it be a good idea to get those out of the way and heat the bolts before using the impact driver?

not supposed to heat suspension parts. the metal could become brittle. Never hurts to try

is3_ftw said:

not supposed to heat suspension parts. the metal could become brittle. Never hurts to try

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Ahh good to know. All of it is being replaced though. I'll have to give it one more shot, but I'm going to give a mechanic who races in the local SCCA a call tomorrow. I'll see what he says.

Btw has anyone tried to use some of those bolts for sale on ebay? These...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Acura-Integra-Honda-Civic-Rear-Lower-Control-Arm-Replacement-Bolts-EG-DC-EF-EK-/171188949674?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27dba812aa&vxp=mtr

I'd hate to have a northern car, Both my integra and civic are southern cars and I havn't had any problems with my suspension etc. All the bolts just loosen right up with some PB Blaster. The bolts you posted from ebay seem to be fine from what I can see. Says 10.9 grade zinc plated etc. As long as they are what they say than it should be just fine. I think the only nut or bolt I had trouble with on my car was the front tie rods. The lock nut you have to loosen was stuck on mine. I had sprayed PB blaster on it once a day for like a week and than went out there and it came right off. If you weren't trying to get it done in a certain time I would say you could try that..

Torch the shit out of the metal around the bolt after you let it sit overnight in PBlaster. Right after the heat, hit it with an impact. That is your best shot. If that does not work, just gotta saw and drill it all out..

So the plan now is to just spend a few days soaking the bolts in PB blaster. I'll give the impact gun another shot after I really soak them. By then I should have the new bolts I ordered, so I can have it towed to a mechanic I'll be racing with. Hopefully he gives me some decent rates, I'll talk to him tomorrow and see what he says.

All the screw ups were on the left side. So the right arm I didn't even touch yet. I don't want to really screw that up too, feel like it's more work for the mechanic. I'll get under there and see if the PB baster over a longer period of time will work though.

Not having a car this week is going to suck, but I really do need one next week. So I may have to bite the bullet and pay someone with all the right tools/skills to do it right.

Let it soak a couple of hours, then hit it with a torch, then spray more blaster. If you let hit it with a torch and then let it cool down, the metal will expand and contract. Thus maybe breaking it free when you torch it again and then it hit with an impact.

Just letting you know what I've tried lol.