Brake question...possible seizing caliper or adjust brake pedal?

Ok so i replaced my master cylinder in my car, after doing that i know that you have to adjust the brake pedal for the new master cylinder. I did so and everything was fine.

I drove the car yesterday, after about 10 minutes of driving i could sense the car was resisting motion, so i was able to get the car to a gas station and when i got out the front driver side brakes were smoking bad. Note: all the others were not smoking and a lot less hot than the others. I let the car sit for a while and then the car would roll again, hense the brakes were not locked up anymore (front drivers side). Drove it home and it was fine.

I then took off the drivers side brake caliper and it depressed a little bit and then stopped and i couldnt get it to go any farther in. checked the front passenger side and it was fine

after about 10 minutes of contemplating what it was, i tired again to depress the drivers side (one that was smoking before) and it went all the way in. I did notice that the rubber boot on that caliper was broken/torn.

I did re adjust the brake pedal after (made it less loose) and drove around for about 15 minutes and it was fine.

My question is do you think it is a seized caliper (or starting to stick) or did i not adjust my brake pedal correctly?

how old are your brake lines? Sounds very much like a checking line

i have ss brake lines and they are approx 3 years old

i ordered 2 new calipers from centric (same company that makes brake rotors/pads/etc) im pretty sure that is it...once that is done imma bleed all my lines and see what happens...see how my brake bedal feels

I would say check your lines first then the caliper because sometimes when removing the caliper people install the caliper twisted pinching the line.. i just replaced my rear passenger side caliper and the boot around the piston was ripped and torn..not sure if that helps

i know my lines aernt pinched so that scratches that, after doing some more researched, i figured that my brake pedal has around 10mm worth of free play, so i am going to adjust it just a little bit and see what happens i rather have a little bit more free play than not enough

when the car is on, push your foot hard on the pedal. If it stops at first and then starts to depress, thats typically a sign of a bad master cylinder. Also check your caliper slides. When the car is off, you should be able to push the pads off the rotor and then move the caliper freely. If you can push the pads back but the caliper doesnt want to move, you need to clean your slides. if the pads wont push back, chances are you need a caliper

oh saw that you replaced your MC lol still check it. I've bought brand new parts and them be bad out of the box TONS of times before. We bought one part at the shop two weeks ago and it was bad and got another one and it was bad lol we tested the second one before we ever put it in and it wasnt giving the right output

nathan_carmona said:

oh saw that you replaced your MC lol still check it. I've bought brand new parts and them be bad out of the box TONS of times before. We bought one part at the shop two weeks ago and it was bad and got another one and it was bad lol we tested the second one before we ever put it in and it wasnt giving the right output

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my brake pedal feels fine doesnt drop. I replaced both calipers but i still have to drive it and see what it feels like

you can change it through the booster

If you had no front brake issues before you replaced the master I can't see it being all of a sudden seized calipers....The brake pedal adjustment is a very critical adjustment, to tight and the pedal does not return fully and the fluid inside the caliper cannot get back to the master because the return hole in the master may be closed off a bit. There is a tool that bolts to the booster for measuring the push rod lenth so you can adjust it down to the 16th of an inch, we have one here at the dealer, maybe you have some connection at yours, its so simple to use. Good luck