Severe misfire at idle

90Integrab18a1

New Member
I started with checking all the ignition and mechanical timing, all correct. I went over all the grounds and retightened them, factory settings no mods or anything, new IACV and FITV. Cap, rotor button, plugs and wires are fairly new. Motor recently dropped in but not swapped to something different. I have a CEL for the crank angle sensor, does this mean I need a distributor? All the gauges, and I mean all of them, died pretty soon after that. All I have left is bright lights and the battery light, everything else doesn't work, the seatbelts decided to go with them, although I believe SOME of the gauges and seat belts run on the same fuse? Correct me if I'm wrong :???:
It could be a separate problem but then again it could be the same issue.. Injectors are replaced with lower mileage injectors, I do NOT know the condition of them, but I know they aren't cracked. FPR and rail are good, and the fuel filters are fine. I'm not having any problems with fuel.
Please help.. Any info is helpful.


Symptoms:
Severe misfiring at idle
Running really fat at any rpm

Runs fine if your foot is on the gas.. At least it feels okay.
 

chris89883

New Member
first thing i would do is compression check.

next thing you should try if compression is good is to isolate the cylinder thats missing. this can be done by unplugging the injectors 1 at a time until you find one that makes no difference. if you can isolate it to one cylinder then i would swap injectors, spark plug, and plug wire on that cylinder with known good parts.

if unplugging the injectors doesnt help then i would be looking at the distributior. pull the cap off and make sure the rotor is on there tight (had the rotor screw fall out of mine and it ran bad at idle good above 1200 rpm) and also make sure there is no oil in the distributor as that can cause crossfiring and will ruin the distributor eventually.
 

90Integrab18a1

New Member
Thanks for the reply. I put a new dizzy on today, so ignition isn't the problem, but you might be onto something with the injectors. I feel like I smell fuel sometimes, and it runs great when you have your foot on the gas. But when you don't it runs like crap. I have another set of injectors I know work, I'll be trying those tomorrow.
 

Muckman

Not a M0derator
On the OBD2 engines there is a crank position sensor on the oil pump.
 


90Integrab18a1

New Member
I know.. The car I'm asking about is a 90 Integra.. Obd0. Crank position sensor is in the distributor. I had a code for that but being as I replaced the distributor and nothing happened..
 

Muckman

Not a M0derator
OK. That wasn't stated earlier.

The cam/crank sensor CEL is a major issue. If you replaced the dist, cleared the code and the code came back then its a wiring issue or possibly your tbelt timing is way off.
 

90Integrab18a1

New Member
I cleared the code after running it for a little while. It has to be an electronic/fuel problem because it's intermittent.. Every once in a while it'll run perfectly, and the other 95% of the time it's running like crap
 


90Integrab18a1

New Member
Okay I changed a leaking injector today and it seemed to help a little bit but not much.. Would using an automatic transmission FPR rather than a manual transmission FPR make any difference?

Also, I don't know if it would have anything to do with it, but I've had a bunch of electrical problems as well..
I have no dash, literally no dash. The only things working on the entire car are the headlights and the battery light, and the after market radio. No seatbelts, coolant temp, fuel gauge, rpms, nothing..
My starter isn't working as wells because of a weak S Terminal signal, and I have confirmed that the s terminal is the problem.

I'm completely stumped.. I feel like all this stuff is related to each other. I would really appreciate all the help I can get, and don't be afraid to feel like you need to dumb it out or state the obvious I'm getting desperate lol.
 

Muckman

Not a M0derator
Can you do a compression check on this engine? cold is fine, we just need to make sure there is somewhat consistent compression. Any other check engine light codes? Do you have a scaner you can use to make sure?
 
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