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Potential damages

3rd Generation Acura Integra (1994-2001)



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Old 03-28-2017, 11:02 PM   #1
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Default Potential damages

A little back story. I have a 95 ls. I was on my way home, on the highway doing
About 60 and then the car just shuts off. Pulled over to the side of the road and coulndt figure it out, car just wouldnt start, had to end up getting towed back home. Well come to find out the timing belt broke while i was driving im not sure if i added to the damage by trying to start the car before i found out the belt broke. Is there any more potential damages that could have been caused by this, could i have possibly damaged more stuff by trying to start it? Any help would be appreciated thanks in advance
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Old 03-30-2017, 06:50 PM   #2
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Trying to start it with the timing belt off won't do anything to it.

However, our motors are interference engines so you may have bent some valves with the belt snapping. I think mine costed $1000, but I was covered since I had just bought the car.
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Old 04-04-2017, 12:53 PM   #3
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Trying to start it with the timing belt off won't do anything to it.
How do you come to that conclusion?

The starter engages the flywheel, which turns the crank making the pistons go up and down out of sync with the valves. That can cause pistons to ruin valves just as much as anything.
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Old 04-04-2017, 01:31 PM   #4
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I come to that conclusion because when mine snapped, I didn't realize that was the problem and tried jumping it and other stuff, and the car runs fine 6 years later.



Unless that did f*** up stuff, which would have been fixed along with the valves I imagine
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Old 04-04-2017, 01:31 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by superhypered View Post
Trying to start it with the timing belt off won't do anything to it.

However, our motors are interference engines so you may have bent some valves with the belt snapping. I think mine costed $1000, but I was covered since I had just bought the car.
I see where your thought process is but there are valves open still.

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How do you come to that conclusion?

The starter engages the flywheel, which turns the crank making the pistons go up and down out of sync with the valves. That can cause pistons to ruin valves just as much as anything.
this


You more than likely have bent valves. Only way to find out is to pull the head and cams and do one of the following:

pressure check the head at a machine shop or flip the head upside down without the cams in the head and spray brake cleaner in each combustion chamber (like a lot of brake cleaner) The brake cleaner should evaporate at a slow rate, if it disapears quickly you have a valve that isnt closed all the way which is indicative of it being bent. However, a bent valve could still be bent and close all the way or close good enough. ONlY a pressure test is a sure fire way to check.
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Old 04-04-2017, 02:04 PM   #6
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You could always pull the cams and do a leak down test.

Removal of the cams ensures that ALL the valves are as closed as they're gonna get, which in turn pretty much tells you if you've got a damaged valve or anything else.

Or just put a new belt on, set the timing, rotate by hand a few times with the spark plugs out, if all feels good just go for it and see if she still runs good = profit?
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Old 04-04-2017, 03:02 PM   #7
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Unless that did f*** up stuff, which would have been fixed along with the valves I imagine
That's exactly what turning it over will do, bend the valves. Of course you'd never know if that happened when the belt broke or if it was caused by trying to start it.
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Old 04-08-2017, 11:28 PM   #8
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I wish i would have got a notification for the replies on my post..... Any way a little update on the car. I found a "mechanic" who told me he could have it up and running in a few days after picking it up from my house. I bought all new timing kit, and motor mounts (because the ones on it originally were visibly damaged) well he replaced parts and the car now turns over and idles very poorly and when i press the gas it gets worse or the engine dies...with that being said, i am very much mechanically inclined and have tools available to me but have never done any car work past breaks or replacing external engine components, so im wondering, the things you guys suggested are those things that i can do on my own without causing any further damage? I would much rather try to learn to repair it myself and destroy it myself if i dont do it right than pay someone to "fix" my vehicle the wrong way thanks in advanced

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Old 04-09-2017, 06:46 AM   #9
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First of all check to see if this "mechanic" actually got the timing marks on the cams and crankshaft lined up, then check the distributor to make sure it's wired up correctly. The poor running situation could be as simple as it's not in time.

After that if you've got any CEL's check those. The primary o2 sensor and I think the TPS sensor will cause it to run poorly and die if you give it gas so make sure he didn't mess with those.

And while you're at it do a compression test if you can then get back to us.

You may have bent valves, but call it a hunch, those symptoms just don't sound like bent valves to me.
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You can't have a B16 because you have an automatic transmission.
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Longer gears tho
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Old 04-09-2017, 10:07 AM   #10
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Ok, i just looked under the hood and looked at a few things, the tps doesnt appear that it has been messed with, i jecked to makes sure the the spark plug wires were in corect order and they are but i did notice that one of the bolts on the distributor was loose about 3 threads exposed to be exact is there a certain way the distributor needs to be aligned? Also the car shows no CEL, havent got to the o2 sensor yet or to see if timing marks line up correctly. Oh and if it makes any difference the "mechanic" also replace the ignition control module with a new one

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Old 04-09-2017, 10:57 AM   #11
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Ok, i just looked under the hood and looked at a few things, the tps doesnt appear that it has been messed with, i jecked to makes sure the the spark plug wires were in corect order and they are but i did notice that one of the bolts on the distributor was loose about 3 threads exposed to be exact is there a certain way the distributor needs to be aligned? Also the car shows no CEL, havent got to the o2 sensor yet or to see if timing marks line up correctly. Oh and if it makes any difference the "mechanic" also replace the ignition control module with a new one

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Haven't been able to get the valve cover taken off because he stripped on of the nuts on there and it wont come off.going to have to cut it out

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Old 04-09-2017, 12:22 PM   #12
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Ok managed to get the valve cover off and here is what i got

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Old 04-09-2017, 12:22 PM   #13
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Old 04-09-2017, 12:23 PM   #14
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This bolt is the motor mount and it is not all the way in, not sure if this affects anything but i figured i would let yall know



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Old 04-09-2017, 12:23 PM   #15
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Both bottom bolts on distributor were loose



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