Re-Building a B18c1 for boost

Muckman

Not a M0derator
supertech block guard not needed for 300hp
arp main and head studs no main studs
ACL race bearings size may not work
bottom end gasket kit good
top end gasket kit good
wiseco pistons and manley h beam rods good. what compression and bore?
gates kevlar racing timing belt Prefer oem
Eagle forged crank shaft totally unnecessary for what your doing
ATI Street Super Damper Crank Pulley unnecessary
Hondata S300 P72 P28 Engine Management System ECU great
Re: the blockgaurd - Its not needed for <350hp. Some push 400 on stock sleeves. If you are still worried about strength then the only block guard I would even consider is this place http://www.cylindersupportsystem.com
However if you want to get serious then the best option is to resleeve which is around $1,000 but completely unnecessary for your power level.

Re: main studs - Again not neesed for your power level and main studs increase clamping force on the main caps which in turns distorts the bores. To install main studs correctly you need to line hone the mains. Thats pricey and it moves the crank center line. Just stick to head studs.

Re: the bearings - Those ACL std size bearings are around an OEM green in thickness. They may or may not give you the right clearance. You either can use your old bearings to measure and calculate the new bearing size or just take a chance and order the ACLs. But understand you may need to order different size bearings. However I feel the quality of ACLs is fine.

Re: Pistons - What compression are you aiming for? And what fuel do you plan on running? Youll want to keep a minimum bore if sticking with stock sleeves 81.5mm. And those rods are fine.

Re: Eagle cranks - very expensive and no better than OEM crank. Only use Eagles if you are building a stroker setup.
 

Spawne32

Shut up baby, I know it!
CNCwerx guards are the ONLY guard i trust, a press in guard does exactly what you dont want to happen to a B20, distort the block by putting pressure in the wrong locations.
 

Rose96

New Member
the reason i wanted to use this stuff is so if i wanted to in the future throw more boost at it i want it to be able to handle it
 

Spawne32

Shut up baby, I know it!
the reason i wanted to use this stuff is so if i wanted to in the future throw more boost at it i want it to be able to handle it
Don't use boost as your reference, use horsepower, what are your horsepower goals. Boost is all reletive, some cars it might take 18psi to get 400hp, some car's it might take 24psi.

A new crank just isnt necessary, and 9 times out of 10 just screws with the mechanics of the motor too much. OEM honda cranks are forged and nitrided, which means they are capable of ohhhh i dunno, i wanna say 900hp. Main studs you can run if it makes you more comfortable, just make sure you have it line honed for the studs. Bearings are bearings IMO, i run oem mains and clevite rod bearings. Run ACL if that's what you prefer, what will be the biggest factor is what you decide to run for main and rod clearances. That will determine your oil weight choice. Bigger clearances, thicker weights, tighter clearances, lighter weights.

Your biggest investments are going to be your block (sleeved or with a CNC guard, dont settle for that press in shit), your rods, and your pistons. The higher in the horsepower you go, the more small things you have to think about. Muckman is the first person ive ever heard of bending wrist pins on wiseco pistons.

Running higher compression is going to dictate what kind of fuel you are going to run, you wont be able to run anything over 11:1 without using something higher then 91 octane.
 


Rose96

New Member
I dont think people are understanding what im trying to get at. I want to build this motor to be able to hold 450 plus in the future if needed. therefore i want to build it right
 


Muckman

Not a M0derator
The only question here is the cylinder sleeves. The other options are what I stated in my previous post. Go with the CNC block gaurd for 450.
 
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