Hard to diagnose - driver side high pitch metal rubbing sound.. Much details below

Markymayhem

New Member
First - Been doing plenty of research and search.

1996 4 door auto "Dad" version Teg. 154k miles. Sat for over a year. I
rebuilt the ignition / dizzy with some civic yard bits, got it out of my
buddies garage, and am trying to get in action. It sat for 1yr plus

so - Suspension wise, no play anywhere. Pass. side has bad boots on the
rack & CV.. Cleaned, greased, zip tied for now. Driver side - the
UCA bushings are not even in existence as far as I can tell. Occasional
clunk when driving - however, the bolts are starting to wear/bang
dents/holes in the sides of the... well where they are -
new UCA is in stock @ the "crib, dawg"

There's lots of fiddly details I'll leave out for now.

QUESTION:

Driver side has a horrible high pitched sounds like the dust shield hitting the rotor sound when moving.

Yesterday - pulled off the hubcap. One lug nut was cross-threaded and
showed 3/4" of unthreaded bolt an of course snapped the stud when trying
to remove.

This car has 4 studs. The opposite nut was finger loose

The other 2 were normal tight.

Tore it down to the hub. I can't see a way to get the wheel stud out without pulling the hub or grinding the spindle a LOT.

Cleaned up the brakes, sand paper, etc etc etc. Put it back with 3 lug
nuts, just to drive it around to the front of my place from the alley [I
live in a decent sized city] - and I found & cleaned massive rust
chunks stuck by the rotor, checked the dust shield etc etc etc.

Still have a mad loud high pitched metal rubbing metal sound when I
drive over 1mph - driver side for sure. I can't see or tell WTF could
be a rotational squeal... unless it's a durn whell bearing - but I've
NEVER heard one go out and make the exact "dust shield on the rotor"
sound.

So - what to check? New to 'Teg - not to Honda... But this lil bastard
needs the hub pulled for a wheel stud - unless someone can point me in
the 100% direction for grinder clearance, I can't see a way to pull the
old & fit the new stud without a hub pull...

Thank you everyone for your help. First Teg, wanna get 'er ripping!

-Marky
 
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Markymayhem

New Member
I should mention [& re-mention]

no change when braking, at all.

Seems to quiet a bit on a slow 90 degree left turn

Drivers side is where the loud af noise is from

get a tiny bit of noise from the rear brakes when reversing really slow
 

Markymayhem

New Member
I did, wheels on though, right off. Nothing obvious. Only had one side up when I took it down to the hub though.
There is about 5mm total of radial play when I turn the hub back & forth - but its not the hub,the axle moves too.
 


Samurai_Blue

Yolo Whippin'
axle will move with the hub if the wheel bearing is bad. You need to pull the hub to remove the stud on this car (same as civics). I would do it to both sides, to freshen up the wheel bearings. OEM or Timkin bearings are good, ive had great luck with timkin lasting 5+ years on track. The rear stud change is easier if you have abs.
 
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