B20B4 all motor set up, prices, opinions.

Hi all! 8)

I need expert advice about an all motor setup. I have a 95 Integra LS with a B20B4 engine and P75 head. The engine has approx 175k miles, runs strong and had been swapped in before I purchased the car. What I don’t know is if it has the CRV ecu or the LS ecu. Can anyone point me in the right direction to find this out? I love the B20B4’s low end torque and 0-60 is what matters to me most. I don’t track it, drag race it etc, etc. The only speed this car sees is the occasional spirited drive through the countryside. I’m looking to replace the engine in the next 50k miles or so. I’m looking for long life and reliable on this. No turbos, superchargers, frankenstein VTEC’s so please don’t suggest those. I would like this thread to be about an all motor setup please. I'm happy with between 140 and 180 hp.

My plan is to buy another B20B4. I want to use the P8R head as it has bigger valves and flows better from what I have read. Anyone have hard data to prove this? I’m going to throw out a few scenarios and have you all give me some help and advice on what to do. I’ll sell the current used engine for around $300 without the transmission to recoup some cost of my swap. I can also sell the P75 head that comes on the new engine for $150 or so.

Scenario 1 – Buy a low mileage B20B4 (estimate $800) and put a rebuilt P8R non VTEC head (estimate $300) on it. While the engine is out, replace water pump, clutch, and timing belt. (Estimate $350).
*Total cost estimate $1450 + misc during actual swap.

Scenario 2 – Buy a high mileage B20B4 (estimate $500) and put a rebuilt P8R non VTEC head (estimate $300) on it. Have the engine rebuilt. (Estimate $500 rebuild kit + labor $300.) Add a Hondata s100 chip ($200). New clutch & water pump (estimate $235). Post build tune ($300).
*Total cost estimate $2135 + misc during actual swap.

Scenario 3 - Buy a high mileage B20B4 (estimate $500). Have the engine rebuilt. (Estimate $500 rebuild kit + labor $300.) Buy a used P8R head (Estimate $200), have head flowed, tri-angle grind (Estimate $200) and with Crower BC0022 stage 2 cam ($355) and BC0020 valve spring/retainer kit. ($320) Valves ($200). ARP bolts ($300). New clutch & water pump (estimate $235) Add a Hondata s100 ($200). Post build tune ($300).
*Total cost estimate $3535 + misc during actual swap.

Crower cam specs: Normally Aspirated Specification BC0022 300°/300° 222°/220° .423"/.413" 10.74/10.49 BC0020
Hot street/strip or road race profile. Use
with CAI, H, E, A/F modifications for optimum 108°
horsepower and torque. Requires kit BC0020.

BC0020 BC1020 BC2020 Dual spring, titanium retainer
Spring Pressure:
BC1020 Seat: 1.400" @ 70 lbs / Open: 0.905" @ 210 lbs / Coil Bind: 0.815" (no machine work required)
Factory installed height = Intake 1.320" / Exhaust: 1.425", BC spring inst at 1.400" on intake and exhaust.


These are pretty much my 3 scenarios. I don’t really want to spend any more than option #3. I can’t seem to find part numbers for B20 ARP bolts. Need some help there. I've not ever had a block or head machined and refurbished so my cost estimates may be off there. I welcome pricing correction, opinions on setups, feedback, hate mail etc. Thanks for your time.

Or you could get a gsr motor have your 160 reliable horsepower and scrap the truck motor you have in there now.

Not trying to be an asshole but why would anyone want to build a N/A 4 cylinder?

I built mine so I can shit all over people like you. Although if I was to do it again, I definitely would have turbo'd it. :lol:

why not rebuild your one b20b4 instead of buying another one with unknown mileage/condition?
you looking for just another long life stock motor or some fun, while it's open you could have lots of fun with some engine mods!!
I wanna build a mild NA set up but I really don't have the time right now

Aussie said:

I built mine so I can shit all over people like you.

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:shock: Maybe my stock Integra, but not the other cars... lol

Does that include your mustang with exhaust and gears.

oh snap aussie is about to throw down!!!!!! <3

Aussie said:

Does that include your mustang with exhaust and gears.

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Sure does

I'll have to get a good video at the track one day to post up. Anyway, OP I wouldn't waste money building a non-vtec motor. Swap it or slap a little turbo kit on it, best options imo.

Thats what I plan to do, build my own budget turbo kit. IMO that would be the best bang for the buck. Turbo Integras will SCOOT!

Yeah yeah yeah it's an old thread, and this may be your reaction to reading my comment, but get over it.

I'm tired of people disregarding N/A builds and claiming turbochargers are the only way to go with the B series. No one wants to build an engine for raw power, no one appreciates power unless it comes out the ass of a forced induction engine anymore. I want anyone who thinks that the world is "turbo or nothing" to give N/A a shot. There's something about making large power numbers without the booster seat, pun intended, of a turbocharger.

I'm saying this because wow, way to shut someone down. Someone that took a bunch of time to think about what they wanted to do. They thought about what they want, colored it with what they knew, and searched for what they didn't know. And then they asked questions. But the last few comments blew all that way, pun intended, disregarding any of OP's interests and, I'll give you all the benefit of the doubt here, recommended a route they are personally comfortable with.

It's not about big power or wasting money, it's about what someone chooses to do. It's okay to disagree with someone. But don't throw away someone's idea without even considering "Hey, maybe that's just what they want to do, so be it. They want a mid-range powered N/A engine. I'm uninterested maybe, but damned if I didn't get any help when I didn't know anything."

jesuschrist said:

Yeah yeah yeah it's an old thread, and this may be your reaction to reading my comment, but get over it.

I'm tired of people disregarding N/A builds and claiming turbochargers are the only way to go with the B series. No one wants to build an engine for raw power, no one appreciates power unless it comes out the ass of a forced induction engine anymore. I want anyone who thinks that the world is "turbo or nothing" to give N/A a shot. There's something about making large power numbers without the booster seat, pun intended, of a turbocharger.

I'm saying this because wow, way to shut someone down. Someone that took a bunch of time to think about what they wanted to do. They thought about what they want, colored it with what they knew, and searched for what they didn't know. And then they asked questions. But the last few comments blew all that way, pun intended, disregarding any of OP's interests and, I'll give you all the benefit of the doubt here, recommended a route they are personally comfortable with.

It's not about big power or wasting money, it's about what someone chooses to do. It's okay to disagree with someone. But don't throw away someone's idea without even considering "Hey, maybe that's just what they want to do, so be it. They want a mid-range powered N/A engine. I'm uninterested maybe, but damned if I didn't get any help when I didn't know anything."

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You wasted your first post by bumping a 6 year old thread to b**** about people saying not to waste money on building a non-VTEC because they don't make s*** for power?

94RS said:

You wasted your first post by bumping a 6 year old thread to b**** about people saying not to waste money on building a non-VTEC because they don't make s*** for power?

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The classic "respect all builds" character. Does not understand NA can be great, just not with a non vtec honda lol.

Power is power. n/a is the best form in terms of power response and enjoyability, but some engines just can't make shit for power on their own. 'Nuff said.