72Spitfire
Member
Hi all! 8)
I need expert advice about an all motor setup. I have a 95 Integra LS with a B20B4 engine and P75 head. The engine has approx 175k miles, runs strong and had been swapped in before I purchased the car. What I don’t know is if it has the CRV ecu or the LS ecu. Can anyone point me in the right direction to find this out? I love the B20B4’s low end torque and 0-60 is what matters to me most. I don’t track it, drag race it etc, etc. The only speed this car sees is the occasional spirited drive through the countryside. I’m looking to replace the engine in the next 50k miles or so. I’m looking for long life and reliable on this. No turbos, superchargers, frankenstein VTEC’s so please don’t suggest those. I would like this thread to be about an all motor setup please. I'm happy with between 140 and 180 hp.
My plan is to buy another B20B4. I want to use the P8R head as it has bigger valves and flows better from what I have read. Anyone have hard data to prove this? I’m going to throw out a few scenarios and have you all give me some help and advice on what to do. I’ll sell the current used engine for around $300 without the transmission to recoup some cost of my swap. I can also sell the P75 head that comes on the new engine for $150 or so.
Scenario 1 – Buy a low mileage B20B4 (estimate $800) and put a rebuilt P8R non VTEC head (estimate $300) on it. While the engine is out, replace water pump, clutch, and timing belt. (Estimate $350).
*Total cost estimate $1450 + misc during actual swap.
Scenario 2 – Buy a high mileage B20B4 (estimate $500) and put a rebuilt P8R non VTEC head (estimate $300) on it. Have the engine rebuilt. (Estimate $500 rebuild kit + labor $300.) Add a Hondata s100 chip ($200). New clutch & water pump (estimate $235). Post build tune ($300).
*Total cost estimate $2135 + misc during actual swap.
Scenario 3 - Buy a high mileage B20B4 (estimate $500). Have the engine rebuilt. (Estimate $500 rebuild kit + labor $300.) Buy a used P8R head (Estimate $200), have head flowed, tri-angle grind (Estimate $200) and with Crower BC0022 stage 2 cam ($355) and BC0020 valve spring/retainer kit. ($320) Valves ($200). ARP bolts ($300). New clutch & water pump (estimate $235) Add a Hondata s100 ($200). Post build tune ($300).
*Total cost estimate $3535 + misc during actual swap.
Crower cam specs: Normally Aspirated Specification BC0022 300°/300° 222°/220° .423"/.413" 10.74/10.49 BC0020
Hot street/strip or road race profile. Use
with CAI, H, E, A/F modifications for optimum 108°
horsepower and torque. Requires kit BC0020.
BC0020 BC1020 BC2020 Dual spring, titanium retainer
Spring Pressure:
BC1020 Seat: 1.400" @ 70 lbs / Open: 0.905" @ 210 lbs / Coil Bind: 0.815" (no machine work required)
Factory installed height = Intake 1.320" / Exhaust: 1.425", BC spring inst at 1.400" on intake and exhaust.
These are pretty much my 3 scenarios. I don’t really want to spend any more than option #3. I can’t seem to find part numbers for B20 ARP bolts. Need some help there. I've not ever had a block or head machined and refurbished so my cost estimates may be off there. I welcome pricing correction, opinions on setups, feedback, hate mail etc. Thanks for your time.
I need expert advice about an all motor setup. I have a 95 Integra LS with a B20B4 engine and P75 head. The engine has approx 175k miles, runs strong and had been swapped in before I purchased the car. What I don’t know is if it has the CRV ecu or the LS ecu. Can anyone point me in the right direction to find this out? I love the B20B4’s low end torque and 0-60 is what matters to me most. I don’t track it, drag race it etc, etc. The only speed this car sees is the occasional spirited drive through the countryside. I’m looking to replace the engine in the next 50k miles or so. I’m looking for long life and reliable on this. No turbos, superchargers, frankenstein VTEC’s so please don’t suggest those. I would like this thread to be about an all motor setup please. I'm happy with between 140 and 180 hp.
My plan is to buy another B20B4. I want to use the P8R head as it has bigger valves and flows better from what I have read. Anyone have hard data to prove this? I’m going to throw out a few scenarios and have you all give me some help and advice on what to do. I’ll sell the current used engine for around $300 without the transmission to recoup some cost of my swap. I can also sell the P75 head that comes on the new engine for $150 or so.
Scenario 1 – Buy a low mileage B20B4 (estimate $800) and put a rebuilt P8R non VTEC head (estimate $300) on it. While the engine is out, replace water pump, clutch, and timing belt. (Estimate $350).
*Total cost estimate $1450 + misc during actual swap.
Scenario 2 – Buy a high mileage B20B4 (estimate $500) and put a rebuilt P8R non VTEC head (estimate $300) on it. Have the engine rebuilt. (Estimate $500 rebuild kit + labor $300.) Add a Hondata s100 chip ($200). New clutch & water pump (estimate $235). Post build tune ($300).
*Total cost estimate $2135 + misc during actual swap.
Scenario 3 - Buy a high mileage B20B4 (estimate $500). Have the engine rebuilt. (Estimate $500 rebuild kit + labor $300.) Buy a used P8R head (Estimate $200), have head flowed, tri-angle grind (Estimate $200) and with Crower BC0022 stage 2 cam ($355) and BC0020 valve spring/retainer kit. ($320) Valves ($200). ARP bolts ($300). New clutch & water pump (estimate $235) Add a Hondata s100 ($200). Post build tune ($300).
*Total cost estimate $3535 + misc during actual swap.
Crower cam specs: Normally Aspirated Specification BC0022 300°/300° 222°/220° .423"/.413" 10.74/10.49 BC0020
Hot street/strip or road race profile. Use
with CAI, H, E, A/F modifications for optimum 108°
horsepower and torque. Requires kit BC0020.
BC0020 BC1020 BC2020 Dual spring, titanium retainer
Spring Pressure:
BC1020 Seat: 1.400" @ 70 lbs / Open: 0.905" @ 210 lbs / Coil Bind: 0.815" (no machine work required)
Factory installed height = Intake 1.320" / Exhaust: 1.425", BC spring inst at 1.400" on intake and exhaust.
These are pretty much my 3 scenarios. I don’t really want to spend any more than option #3. I can’t seem to find part numbers for B20 ARP bolts. Need some help there. I've not ever had a block or head machined and refurbished so my cost estimates may be off there. I welcome pricing correction, opinions on setups, feedback, hate mail etc. Thanks for your time.