G-Stock. the only thing you can have is a cat back - i recommend not exhaust system at this point. just dump it after the cat. this is legal. you can only a different filter then stock but must be a OEM design. It must also fit in the stock location. You have any shock setup out there as long as the ride height and top hats are still OEM. You can have aftermarket wheels are long as they are the same size with +- 8 mm offset. Brake lines much be OEM. Brake pads and brake rotors must be OEM style. NO slotted, drilled or bigger rotors. You can have a bigger sway bar but only in the front. Everything inside the car that came with the car from ACURA must still be there; rear seats, etc.... No aftermarket steering wheels or anything thing like that. The key to going fast the the Stock classes is tires, tires, tires. Even in these classes money starts come in a count very fast. You can run on racing slick tires. HOOSIER A6 tires seem to be the repeat best tires for AutoX. But this is serious people. Tires are 250+ each. I would recommend just good street tires for your first year. Get use to the race tires behavior of heat. heat will give race tires more traction. too much heat and you'll lose traction. tire pressure is key. the right pressure can give you up to 1 sec on some coarse. Tires i would recommend is the Dizzera Z1 start specs. Learn how to drive the car and find its limits. and improve on that. Also, coarse memorization is key. Every time you go to an event the coarse is different. i like to walk the coarse at least 4 times before my first lap. This way my first lap is like my fifth. AutoX lines are completely different from road racing lines.
If this is too expensive already. Then ST is differently not the class for you. In ST, to be competitive the first thing you'll need is a customer valved suspension setup specifically for autoX. A road racing setup is a waste of time once your in this area of motor sports. A These are easily in the 3,000 range. Then engine management comes into play. Also, drilled/slotted rotors, braided lines, intake systems and headers. A new a guy that had a header that cost 1,000. Camber is key in this class. wheels can now be bigger but watch your wheels width. SSR type C RS wheels seem to be the most popular wheels in ST classes. Got to have racing seats at this point. they must also be FIA approved. The cheapest seats i found are RaceTech. they make fair quality seats and their prices are reasonable.
All this is assuming our are a first class driver.
Regional level -> Divisional level -> National level.
Off coarse this is speaking "to be competitive" at Divisional levels. Most likely in your first year, you try to win the novice class and then to win your class in the Regional. In the regional, there isn't much competition unless you have someone in your class who is a divisional candidate. I ran my civic in the HS against a National Candidate and i could never beat him.
But being honest, the integra is a bad choice for auotX competition if you want to be competitive. Sorry, to say but it is true. EXCEPT for the type R. The typeR is a front runner in DS. And has been for the last couple of years.
if you do some homework, the ST classes at the national level is dominated by EF civics. Last year, Karcepts or was it K-tuned ran a EG with a k20 swap in Street Modified(SM) and won the Nationals, i think. i use to keep up with all of us this but have been lagging in the last past year since i wasn't very actively racing.
hope this helps. This is just a little in site to what you will expect if you really want to do this.
