It can be done. I have a buddy in Houston that has a sick and clean DA with a boosted H22 set up. I'll try and get a hold of him and get a full list of what he went with.
You'll need mounts.
You'll have to decide whether to go with the H series trans and cable to hydro conversion or to go H2B with a cable trans. You could also go H2B hydro trans but I wouldn't go with both the H2B plate and the cable to hydro conversion.
You will need to get vtec conversion harness and ECU as well. Also you have to get the right axles. I believe the stock DA passenger side axle will work and I think you use an Accord driver side axle and half shaft. I'll have to check though.
Hey bro whats up? Well this will be my 1st post! So I've got a 93 DA (RS) w/a boosted H22 LSD swap. Im using the Explicit Speed Motor Mount Kit w/traction bar, & alternator relocation brackets, w/hydro to cable adapter.($900)
General Info needed to do this swap/ Items needed. Suggested Items
1. JDM H22 w/tranny. (LSD pay the extra $300 from HMO, its worth it!) H2B will have hood clearance issue.
2. DA driver side axle, 90-93 Accord mid shaft, pass side is a custom axle (visit raxles.com ask for Marty!) About $200 if recall.
3. Take your existing DA engine harness & obtain the H22 prelude car harness. Send both of these items to Rywire (Rywire.com) $300. They will make u a custom hybrid harness.
4. You will need 90-93 accord or 92-96 prelude shifter cables if using the H/F series tranny. To obtain a factory look & use your existing shifter center console, you must cut the car's shifter area & mount the new shifter & cables underneath the car. If you don't cut & decide to mount on the top side you cant use the factory console! Takes creative thinking. I can supply pics later!
5. I decided to use a P28 ecu because its simple. No IAB's knock, EGR, etc. I deleted these anyway. P13 will work fine if you want to use the items listed above.
6. Mods will have to be made to the car. Pass side mount housing will need another hole drilled to accept the new tranny mount. Template will be included w/Explicit Speeds Mount Kit. Also Rear subframe will have to be notched a little bit to clear the H/F Trans. Not a big deal (dosen't affect its structural integrity) If you dont use the Explicit traction bar set up, you will also have to notch the front crossmember. Use the traction bar. You will surely need it.
7. Use the DA speed sensor. It will engage perfectly into the H/F trans, but it will not bolt up. You must fabricate custom adapter hold down brackets. Trust me its very easy, be creative. Again I can supply pics.
8. The H22's crank pulley must be have the P/S portion machined down. Only the alternator belt can be used on this swap. You will not be able to retain Power Steering. Another option is to use the Euro R crank pulley.
9. The IAT sensor (intake air temp) must be relocated into the intake tube. It will not clear the brake booster. I used a B20 sensor. Its the screw in type & will fit perfectly in the stock DA's air box tube. Use a hose clamp for added security.
10. Factory H22 down pipe will have be modified to bolt up to to cat back. Easy. Exhaust shop ($30)
11. Clutch Cable. Got mine from the junkyard. 89 accord. Perfect fit.
I think thats the bulk of it. It involves a little work, but its really not that bad. I did this swap to be different. Before the boost set up, it was soooo sleeper. Great power & lots of TORQUE!! Traction was a problem. Get some good tires. LSD helps,but I could still chirp 4th everytime! I would rape any N/A b series on the street. .........And for those saying the H series swap weighs 200 lbs more than a B, dosent know what they are talking about! Its only 50 lbs heavier. I weighed it. Ive got the RS model DA without PS & A/C. Full Interior. 2620 lbs.
Any questions feel free to ask. Hope this helped out. Thanks guys!
if it would just bolt right up id do it, but i think im just gonna grab the engine etc for the price hes askin and turn around and sell it. how much could i sell this whole setup for, engin trans ecu and wiring for? aprroximately.