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brake fluid leak in the middle of the car, need some advice or information

3rd Generation Acura Integra (1994-2001)



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Old 04-25-2012, 05:05 PM   #1
teg_your_it
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Arrow brake fluid leak in the middle of the car, need some advice or information

my brake pedal is very soft now a days. the fluid reservoir runs out in two days after filling it to the top.

the fluid is leaking right in the middle of the car (on the bottom off course). i think it quirts out if i press the pedal hard enough.

has anyone know anything about the brake lines? is the pipe or line thats in that area a metal pipe or soft lines? if you have deal with this before some advice would help a lot. the more the information the better. also i have never tried to fix brake pipes/lines before so im a complete noob at this.

thanks.
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Old 04-25-2012, 06:54 PM   #2
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There are a ton of brake lines that run in the middle of the car. The lines run from the master cylinder to the abs unit, back across the car, and then to the rear calipers.

Best bet is to get a flashlight and a can of brake cleaner and start looking as your buddy presses the pedal.
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Old 04-26-2012, 12:33 AM   #3
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My 40/40 prop valve leaks. Check that
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Old 04-28-2012, 09:07 AM   #4
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well it does squirts out when ever i press the brakes so i guess it should be the line that goes to one of the calipers.
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Old 04-28-2012, 10:01 AM   #5
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rusted line, cut it out and flare in a new one
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Old 04-28-2012, 11:53 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdmjim View Post
rusted line, cut it out and flare in a new one
I typed something up about doing this a while ago, never got to posting it.

OP: Is it leaking in the engine bay or underneath the car?
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Old 04-29-2012, 09:50 AM   #7
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its from underneath the car. like directly underneath the elbow rest.

is there a flaring tool for the pipes?
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Old 04-29-2012, 10:19 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by teg_your_it View Post
its from underneath the car. like directly underneath the elbow rest.

is there a flaring tool for the pipes?
there lines . and yes there is a tool
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Old 04-30-2012, 06:19 PM   #9
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This is what I did to fix it:

Replacing sections of solid lines (brake lines in this case)
To do this you will need:
-lengths of 3/16" metal brake line (I used 3 5' sections to replace the majority of both front - back brake lines)
-2 3/16" inverted flare fittings per line (will be female-female, looks like a long nut with a ridge through the middle on the inside)
-4 3/16" flare nuts per line - 2 should come with the brake line
-mini pipe cutter
-mini pipe bending tool
-double flaring kit
Steps:
1. Cut bad pipe off from car with the cutter. Make sure to leave about a 2" section of straight, good line attached to the car.

2. Slide a flare nut all the way down the line to one side, make sure the threads are against the flare and not the hex.

3. Starting at one flared end of new line, bend to match the section of old line and trim excess length if necessary. Double check that there are no bends between the flare nut and the flare at the starting end of the line.
(Any bends in the line will make it very difficult, if not impossible, to move the flare nut along the line. The only solution is to cut the line so the flare nut can be removed, then starting again)
Leave about a 2" minimum straight section at the end of the new line. If bends are necessary past this section, continue to step 4 and return back to it after step 5 is complete.

4. Slide a second flare nut over the end of the new line, with the threads closer than the hex to the end. The two hex sections of the flare nuts on one line should be "facing" each other, like this: \\\\H========H\\\\

5. Use the double flaring tool to flare the cut section of the line. Be sure not to allow too much pipe to be flared as this can cause the flare to split. Any split flare will not allow a proper seal and will leak. Cutting off the split flare and trying again is the only way to fix it.

6. After a good flare is on both ends of the new pipe and it is bent to the proper shape, 2 more flare nuts need to be attached to the cut sections of the old line attached to the car. Slide one flare nut over the end of the existing line, same orientation as before, and add a flare to the end. Repeat same process for the other end of the existing line.

7. Once all flare nuts and flares are in place, the new line section can be installed. Using an inverted flare fitting, thread in the flare nuts from the existing line and new line at the start and end of the new line section. Tighten the fittings. Some slight bending adjustments for proper fitment can be expected.

8. After the inverted flare fittings are installed and tight, refill the lines with fluid and check for any leaks. If leaks are present, try tightening the fittings even more. If leaks are still present, disassemble the fittings and inspect the flares for any signs of damage and inspect the inverted flare fitting for any debris.

9. Re-check fittings for any leaks. If all is good then you're all done.
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Old 05-02-2012, 05:00 PM   #10
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wow.....that is what im talking about!! thank you! i will get on this when my class is over. ill post back after finished hopefully with some pictures.
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Old 05-02-2012, 06:23 PM   #11
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Good luck with this bro. i had the same problem on my old DB. in the end I had to replace all the lines anyway. Every time i replaced some, another leak would show up.
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Old 05-12-2012, 09:35 PM   #12
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^^ OMG. how did you even do it? i just had time today to TRY. it took me 30-45 min just to lift up my car onto the driving ramp (because the bumper gets in the way, and im too scared to use jack stands only). after getting the car up and going under, i have completely no room to work. i don't have to clue on how to take out the plastic brackets for the tubes.

as for the pipes i see nothing but rust throughout the pipes. and one of the screw and bolt and fully rusted. no way of getting that out. i have a hard time turning my head. does car manufactures know that these stuff gets exposed to water? i just don't get it.

i guess pretty soon im going to have fuel leaks too. i can't even see where the leaking spot is since it's completely blocked by the plastic bracket. guess i have to bring it to a shop. being a student i just don't have time to do this. seems very easy, but i don't have the right equipment.
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Old 05-12-2012, 10:52 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by natron84 View Post
Good luck with this bro. i had the same problem on my old DB. in the end I had to replace all the lines anyway. Every time i replaced some, another leak would show up.
did you have to do anything with your gas tank in the process? like removing it or something like that?
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Old 05-13-2012, 02:59 PM   #14
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im going to try another attempt.

does anyone know the size of the brake pipe?
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Old 05-21-2012, 07:36 AM   #15
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does anyone know how to remove the long plastic strip that is protecthing the lines? i unbolted the (what looks like) sliding metal peice and tried to hammer it sideways for it to slide out but wont' move at all.
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