B18C LS crank

Royal_DA

Royal
Hello CI!

So I just had a quick question for the people in the "know".
I am doing a rebuild on a B18C block and came across a serious question/issue

Build:
B18C bored to 83mm pistons
LS Crank instead of GSR for a longer stroke
going to rebuild the head as well.
Stage 3 cams

Question: With the LS crank in my B18C i know i need LS rods instead of GSR or B18C rods, Right? or else the piston wont even reach the top...

Also im buying my rods from CI. At first i was getting these rods: http://www.clubintegra.com/store/manley-sport-compact-connecting-rods-14025-4_p4498.html

But someone from Tunersport contacted me and wanted to make sure i didn't mean to get Vtec rods instead of these LS ("non-VTEC rods")

So order was changed to these: http://www.clubintegra.com/store/manley-sport-compact-connecting-rods-14026-4_p4499.html

Now im not sure which ones i need... Please if anyone knows which ones i need let me know. Im almost sure its going to be the LS/ B18a or B18b ones... and if so can they handle VTEC?

Thanks,

Royal_DA
 

96LSteg

Jemel
I don't know everything but I would think that you would need the LS rod or you wouldn't benefit from the longer stroke
 

Muckman

Not a M0derator
Yes LS crank requires LS length rods.
Stick with the original rod order.

*Edit: Youll also need LS rod bearings.
 

Royal_DA

Royal
Nice, thats what i originally had but i got confused when he mentioned "non-VTEC" rods... lol
 


Muckman

Not a M0derator
Yeah I hate non descriptors like that. VTEC has nothing to do with anything.

The LS crank counterweights sometimes hits the GSR oil squirters.
You can either shave the tops of the bolts or get the GE plug kit.
 

Royal_DA

Royal
Definitely will keep CI updated. I'll be taking pics throughout the build and video after build/first start up. Will be starting a build thread soon so i hope everyone can check it out once its done :)

Build will hopefully be done in a months time depending on my income and how much school will be for spring semester....

So far:
B18C Block Bored
83mm CP pistons
LS Crank w/LS rods-manley sport
Brian Crower Stage 3 cams
GSR Y80 Transmission

Later:
Rebuilding head w/ Brian crower springs and retainers
Valves-not sure which ones yet
etc. etc.

All this will be going into a 1993 DA :twisted:

BTW, Thanks a lot for the help Muchman and 96LSteg! I appreciate it :thumbs up
 


Royal_DA

Royal
No this build isn't going to be boosted.
I honestly prefer the sound of a nice NA and I feel its more reliable:p

Decided on 83mm because the block needed to be bored out anyways and it already had 81.5. Didn't want to go with 82mm (ITR) because it wouldn't make sense (atleast to me) to pay for the machine shop and pistons to just go 82mm. Thus my final decision of 83mm, besides its very unique from what i see.

BUT! while i was writing this... i went back to look at the pistons i got. Turns out i accidently ordered 82mm pistons :rolf:

Notes: B18C1 | Set of 4 | Bore: 3.228 (82.0mm) | Size: +1.0mm | CH: 1.181 | CR: 12.5

haha how disappointing :what: Still looking to get 200+ hp from this block... maybe 230ish??? i would need to calculate. But yeah that was my thinking behind getting 83mm, which i didn't and thought i had.
 
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Nick_C78

New Member
The max bore you should go on stock sleeves is 82mm. If you are going 83mm, you would have to, or rather should, sleeve it, but if you sleeved it, wouldn't make much sense not to go 84mm.

What type of dyno do you plan on having it dynod on? Also, if you want to reach 200+ whp, which won't be easy, you are going to need real head work, portjob, back cut valves, lightened and balanced valve train, etc. The block isn't where you gain most of your power, the head is. The block just has to be able to hang.
 

Muckman

Not a M0derator
Not for NA tho. B20 is nothing more than an 84mm bored B18b block. Lots of guys making big NA power on stock sleeve B20 blocks.
 

Nick_C78

New Member
I will be the first to admit that there is no substitute for displacement. But head work is where you get the biggest bang for you buck, IMO.

Hmm I always thought b20 used different sized sleeves. Because they look just as thick as all other OEM ones. Boring stock 1.8 sleeves to a 2.0 means the sleeves are going to be really thin. I could be wrong.
 
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Muckman

Not a M0derator
The bore spacing is the same, otherwise we wouldnt be able to put GSR heads on B20 blocks.
But when you bore the sleeves, the wall between cylinders becomes the weak link and thats where it cracks, not on the outside. So a bored 84mm B18 block in in theory should be just as weak as a stock bore 84mm B20 block.

In regards to displacement - generally I agree of course but moving up 1.5mm in bore nets only 69cc lol.
 

Royal_DA

Royal
I figured it you wanted to go big youd go as big as you can - 84 or 85mm.
ITR is 81mm by the way. All B16. B17 and B18 blocks are 81mm bore. B20 is 84mm.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Honda_B_engine
huh... I could have swore I saw/read somewhere that ITR was 82mm. Now I see i was wrong lol Thanks Muckman

But yeah I do know that my head will need a lot of work, so far from what i know, i need to port and polish, im going to rebuild the valve train with Brian crower retainers and springs, not sure on valves so open to suggestions, im not sure what back cut valves is so Nick i'd appreciate some information if you or anyone would like to provide it (i know it improves air flow).

oh yeah and the max bore I ended up with is 82mm.
Dyno will most likely be a DynoJet Dynamometer from a local shop.
 
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