xZachTheRipper8's build thread!

xZachTheRipper8

New Member
Name: Zach
Car: 1997 Integra LS dc4
Modifications:
stock b18b1 botttom end
brian crower cams
aem cam gears
edelbrock header and custom 3in exhaust
no name intake
tuned on crome
drop engineering coilovers.
Plans for the future:
picked up a b18b block and crank for 50 bucks, plan to resleeve block and micropolish crank and balance. building for boost, havent decided on the head yet, either ls vtec or staying b18b1. changing coilovers for something stiffer and more adjustability. getting lcas, subframe brace, camber kit, stoptech brake upgrade. doign the usdm type r conversion


heres the car when i first got it.


the engine shot when i got it

interior, want to go to black

rebuilt bottom end from the previous owner

the guy said at 50% throttle this opens it to wot?

aem cam gears

bc cams

cleaned up some what

back seats gone:)

the old ones broke as soon as i got to work so it sat in my stall for a week while waiting for new studs and all new mounts

waaaaiting for mounts

back on the road:)

ac is gone, had to make a bracket to hold the overflow tank for the timing being

tearing out the sound deadening.
 
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xZachTheRipper8

New Member
sorry:( haha ill redo it when i get the chance i promise aha but i probably cant put pics till sunday cause i have class at night during the week! god i cant wait to finish! one more class and im out of that place for good! then i save more for my car:)

is that a better op?:) also Im looking at the go autoworks street turbo kit for liek 2g with a turbonetics turbo!
 
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Muckman

Not a M0derator
Hi Zach, thanks for rephrasing your post. What are your goals with the build? What happened to the LS block to make it only 50 bucks?
 

xZachTheRipper8

New Member
@muckman, for this engine since its going to be my first build and boosted at that im going to stay relatively low, i want to get about 300-350 out of this motor, but i got the block and crank for a steal because one, it spun a bearing on journal 3 and then also he had quite a few laying around in his garage so he was just trying to clear it up some. so i got it for a good deal, i found out today that b series engines are aluminum so i cant have it magnafluxed, i have to have it pressure tested so im going to find a shop that can do that for me. but as for the build goes i want to bore it to 81.50mm, line bore the main caps, have the crank micropolished and balanced, forged internals, acl race bearings. im still stuck on what i want to do with the head, idk if i want to go lsvtec or stay nonvtec, and suggestions?
 


Muckman

Not a M0derator
Spun bearing mean the crank is a throw away. If its spun on the main bearing then that means the block is junk too probably. Line hone can fix a spun main bearing but it'll cost more than another block. Do you know if it spun the main or rod bearing? Start there.
 

xZachTheRipper8

New Member
it spun a rod bearing, i thought you were able to micropolish the rod journals? that kinda bums me out now if i have to find another crank aha

edit- but i want to do a line bore just incase, but if i dont, do i still need to mess with all the colors on the bearing thickness if i go with acl bearings?
 

Muckman

Not a M0derator
You can micropolish fine scratches out up to .0005". When a bearing is spun the journal is beaten up to the point where a lot of material is removed (it will be a few thou smaller than the rest, which is huge), it will become out of round and there will be deep gouges. To fix that the journal needs to be cut which is called being turned. And if a Honda crank is cut too much (over .010~.020") then the nitride hardened surface is removed. None of this is worth the money & risk when a used B series crank is around $150.

The only exception is if the spun trouble was caught early enough where it didn’t physically spin. Usually all bearing trouble is called "spun bearings" when it’s not always the case. So bring the crank to your machine shop and get their opinion. They should be able to mic it on the spot and tell you if it’s out of round then it’s a boat anchor.

Line bores are expensive and risky. I don’t recommend it unless its required. The risk comes from the fact that Honda uses a steel main cap on a soft aluminum block. When the main tunnels are honed (aka line bored) the tool will naturally chew more into the softer block. This moves the crank center line up. If the crank centerline is moved significantly then the oil pump and rear main seal must be adjusted so the dowel pins line up with the new centerline. This also pushes the piston up decreasing p2h clearance. It’s not something you want to mess with unless you spun a main bearing and need to save an expensive sleeved block.

And maybe to the bearing thickness question. ACLs are one size which may or may not fall into the factory range. You may end up with a mixture of ACLs and OEMs to achieve the right clearances.
 

xZachTheRipper8

New Member
ok so im convinced not to do the line bore unless abesolutely needed. but as for the bearings im just not sure about how it works. i picked up a how to rebuild b series engines and they explain it but im still just as lost as hell because i cant wrap it around my head that all the bearings are different sizes
 

Muckman

Not a M0derator
All bets are off because you are replacing the crank. So you cant even get a baseline with the old bearings. Just buy a set of ACLs and plastigauge the clearances. If the clearances dont work then you'll be ordering a few oem colors.
 

xZachTheRipper8

New Member
ok that sounds good, do you have an idea of what the clearances are supposed to be?

edit- and i think instead of having to mix bearings i may just stay with the oems because ive heard that they are still pretty good and they would hold with what im wanting to obtain from it, is that true or should i still go aftermarket?
 
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Muckman

Not a M0derator
Ive found no difference in quality between OEM and ACL. ACL is cheaper to get a set vs OEM if you need to make adjustments. This is from the factory service manual which I highly recommend you download:

Main Bearing to Journal oil Clearance: Standard (New):
No. 1, 2, 4, 5: 0.0009 - 0.0017"
No. 3: 0.0010- 0.0019"

B18B1 engine:Rod bearing to Journal oil Clearance: Standard (New):
All: 0.0008- 0.0015"

GSR/ITR rods are wider at .0015 to .0020"

I target on .0015~.0018" on all mains and .0020" on rods.
 
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