N/A gsr build help

lownslow177

New Member
New member here at CI, and was needing advise on my N/A build with my 98 gsr motor. Im looking to get a fun 220hp car, in and around that # atleast. Ive got a parts list and was wondering if it could reach my goals, what im missing, what i could do without and opinions on brands. So first i wanted to take it to a machine shop to get the head p&p'd, and get the block deck resurfaced. Im not sure if i needed to upgrade my egnition system with this setup so opinions are needed. Heres the parts list::

-Je piston and manley h-beam rods at 12.5:1 cr
-gsr race engine builder kit that comes with arp headstuds and mainstuds, acl race rod bearing, acl race main bearings and thrust washers
-skunk2 pro cams stage 2
-supertech valvetrain with adjustable cam gears
-410cc injectors
-aem fuel rail
-hondata s200
-hytech race headers
-victor x intake manifold port matched with edelbrock 65 mm throttlebody
-whale dick inake

One thing that bothered me was the price of the hytech header, is there anything under $800 that anyone can suggest? Is my compression too high or good? What kinda #'s do you think i can pull? Any info is helpful guys i appreciate it, ive looked through many threads to get my parts list, this will be the first build for me so i hope im in the ballpark for hp wise and this build without blowing s*** up. Thanks boys.
 

rb73

New Member
s200 has been discontinued for awhile. If you were getting one real cheap, maybe. I have heard that they have been getting buggy since it's not officially supported.
 

Nick_C78

New Member
That is a steep goal for NA. You probably won't reach it without extensive head work, but that shouldn't stop you from trying. Will this car be daily driven? I sure hope that it won't be.

Let me break down your list:
-Je piston and manley h-beam rods at 12.5:1 cr (Sure this set up will work just fine. Just make sure your piston to head clearance is good)
-gsr race engine builder kit that comes with arp headstuds and mainstuds, acl race rod bearing, acl race main bearings and thrust washers (You can use this, but you don't need ARP main studs, because you aren't boost. Also, you'll need a mainline hone if you do get the ARP Main Studs. Make sure you check your bearing clearances with a plastigauge too.)
-skunk2 pro cams stage 2(These cams are pretty crazy and I do not recommend them for anything other than a drag race car)
-supertech valvetrain with adjustable cam gears (You should get the Skunk2 Valve train to match your cams for warranty purposes)
-410cc injectors(Get Acura RDX Injectors and the Ktuned kit)
-aem fuel rail(Sure)
-hondata s200 (Hondata doesn't make this anymore. Youll need s300)
-hytech race headers (Get Skunk2 Alpha, costs WAYYYY less and is high quality)
-victor x intake manifold port matched with edelbrock 65 mm throttlebody(The victor X is actually a good match for the power band of your cams, but your car won't come alive until 7k) -whale dick inake(This intake sucks. Get AEM Cold air with a bpi flowstack)
 

lownslow177

New Member
Good advice nick, so i guess the next question is what cam do you think will suit the build? I just recently changed my mind from a forced induction to n/a so im looking to have something fun that will put you back in your seat. Id really like 200+whp. Its my summer whip for when it isnt shitty outside and then a couple track days when i wanna have fun, ill have my truck for winter and rainy days. I was figuring id spend around $6000 when its all said and done and a bit more wiggle room with added labour since i dont have all the tools for this build. Thanks for the replys!!
 


Nick_C78

New Member
Skunk2 pro 1 is probably the largest cam I would use for a car that gets street driven, but that's just me.
 

Nick_C78

New Member
Neither cam will get you to 220 whp without you sleeving your block for at least 84.5mm and some decent head work. Not sure if you realize how much work it takes to get those numbers NA on these little motors. You'll probably also want a b20/ls crank, which means you'll need to order the LS nonvtec version rods. No repleacement for displacement.
 


Aussie

Zoom-Zoom
I don't feel that really works, there's too much that can fluctuate because of the headwork done. If you get someone who knows these heads and can nail the porting to go with your setup, you'll hit those numbers easily with those mods. But the headwork will make or break you hitting 220. Tuning is just punching in numbers to get the correct ratio.
 

Muckman

Not a M0derator
Im just sick of doing the research for ppl. Its much easier to show a dozen builds that work and what power they made with x parts instead of me writing a novel each time.
 

Nick_C78

New Member
To be fair, at least this guy had a list. Hah

Also, the easiest way to get 220 whp is to go on an inflated dyno
 

Aussie

Zoom-Zoom
Muckman said:
Im just sick of doing the research for ppl. Its much easier to show a dozen builds that work and what power they made with x parts instead of me writing a novel each time.
Click to expand...
It's even easier to just take it to someone to build. I'll never understand people who spend thousands of dollars on parts and assemble the engine themselves. Sorry but if you have no experience building a motor, you shouldn't be playing around with that sort of money. You're better off calling up a reputable shop and saying "I have $6000 and I want to make the most amount of power I can reliably, what can you do."

It doesn't matter how much experience you have turning wrenches, when it comes to machining tolerances for an engine build you're playing a different game. Sending this part to this company, and this part to that company, and then getting X and Y back and putting them together yourself is asking for trouble. Give the whole damn job to one person and let them work their magic! A good shop should even have an engine dyno in house where they can break the damn thing in for you and have it tuned. You'll get back a nice motor you can drop in, wire up, and drive off with a smile.

Honestly if I could do my build over, I would have let Don at DFE build the whole thing instead of just doing the headwork. I think in the end he would have gotten more potential out of it then I did; for me that's a lesson learned.
 
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