All Motor Gsr Build

*01GSR*

I (v) JDM
Okay, Okay. I'm sorry for making so many threads asking questions, so I'll put it all in here, I'll make an official build thread, my goal is 200+ whp all motor/pump gas.

I'm still open for suggestions on what will work best with what but so far my set up is

AEM SRI
Megan header 2.5" collector
Omni 2.5" test pipe
Apexi Dunk exhaust
TB (Still not decided on brand or size, suggestions?)
Stock IM
BC Stage2 Cams
AEM Cam Gears
BC Valvetrain Kit
Pistons (Still not sure on what brand or compression ratio, all help would be appreciated!)
Stock Rod
ARP head bolts
Neptune RTP ECU
Thinner Headgasket (.??mm)
Hondata IM gasket
Shit ton of tuning....

I'm going to keep this thread updated with info, pictures and questions I'm sure, thank to everyone who's helped me out, especially tegsox and aussie, you guys seem pretty helpful!
 

Spody02

Name: Cody
bigger tb isnt going to help any with a stock im, so either port your stock one or get an aftermarket one or toss the tb

headgasket, since your going for all motor your going to want higher comp, i would go with oem

pistons... are you keeping stock sleeves? i would go with a 12, somewhere around there

and might want to reconsider the stock rods inside of tb
 

*01GSR*

I (v) JDM
Spody02 said:
bigger tb isnt going to help any with a stock im, so either port your stock one or get an aftermarket one or toss the tb

headgasket, since your going for all motor your going to want higher comp, i would go with oem

pistons... are you keeping stock sleeves? i would go with a 12, somewhere around there

and might want to reconsider the stock rods inside of tb
Click to expand...
I'll probably just bag the TB then all together. So should I go with the OEM 1 layer then for higher compression and I was under the impression unless yours are ruined, the stock rods are fine to use and since you're local on a side note, have you even been to PIR and raced because I want to see what the stock form 1/4 mile is sort of like for a before and after and I checked the site but it looks like a royal pain in the ass, how's that work? can you just go there any weekened?
 

Spody02

Name: Cody
what pacific raceways?
i've been there a few times
but for events
not sure how it works
pretty sure they have test and tune like every friday tho

for rods, a new tb is like 200 and you could pick up some used eagles for like 200
and strong is always better
just a suggestion
 


Apollo

New Member
Probably a stupid question, but TB = timing belt?

Might want to consider fuel rails, ignition, spark plugs, injectors also. Just a thought.
 
Last edited:

JDMxDB8

Raceline USA
Apollo said:
Probably a stupid question, but TB = timing belt?

Might want to consider fuel rails, ignition, spark plugs, injectors also. Just a thought.
Click to expand...
Throttle Body.
 


8urcivic

ONLY couches pull out!!!!
how much compression you plan on running?
i would run some 9mm rod bolts.....hondas make ther hp at higher rpms....and its a cheap security
and if you plan on making any hp....ditch the stock intake mani......the edlebrock and the s2 are nice ones
port and polishing would definatly make more power.


you should check out my build up thread.


and if you have any questions.....u can shoot me a pm.
 

Integraguy04

CORNER CARVER
8urcivic said:
how much compression you plan on running?
i would run some 9mm rod bolts.....hondas make ther hp at higher rpms....and its a cheap security
and if you plan on making any hp....ditch the stock intake mani......the edlebrock and the s2 are nice ones
port and polishing would definatly make more power.


you should check out my build up thread.


and if you have any questions.....u can shoot me a pm.
Click to expand...

to get over 200whp on a GSR motor your looking at 12:1 compression and like a stage 2 cam with some port work done to it
 

TegSox

Super Duper Moderator
-The Apexi Dunk isn't a 2.5 inch exhaust, it's 2.36 inches. You don't want to decrease diameters as you move back in the exhaust system, you want dialeters to stay the same or get bigger. A 2.5 inch system will be perfect for your peak WHP goal.

-It's a good idea to get a bigger TB. You could at least step up to a Type R TB, which is a 62mm TB (GSR TB is 60mm) and have it portmatched to the stock IM. You'll have to buy an ITR throttle cable for it. And I'm not against using your stock IM, it will help maintain your low end TQ more than an aftermarket IM will. If you want to go all out with the stock IM: Pick a TB (stay in the 62-65mm range), portmatch it to the stock IM and have the stock IM ported out....have those intake ports made larger and smoother.

-ARP rod bolts would be a good idea, some cheap insurance for your bottom end. And using stock rods is fine, I'm using my stock GSR rods with Wiseco pistons in a 12:1 engine. The only real reason for you to get aftermarket rods for the build your planning is if the pistons you choose don't fit onto stock rods for whatever reason, or for the weight savings, I believe most if not all aftermarket rods for all motor setups will be lighter than stock rods. Lighter while not sacrificing stregnth is always a good thing.

-I'd go with a stock headgasket if possible, make your choice of piston give you the compression you need for the cams to perform at their best. If you contact Buddy Club the ought to be able to tell you what CR is best for those cams with your engine setup.

-Speaking of timing belts, an aftermarket belt would be more good insurance for your engine. Toda makes a fantastic belt, I use one myself, they're around $175. Greddy also makes one, they're around $140. There may be others.

-As far as ignition components, you'll only need to get bigger injectors, keep the rest stock. And make sure you are using spark plugs intended for a GSR, don't go cheap on spark plugs with a high comp. engine. I recommend NGK spark plugs (and spark plug wires too), I use them, got them at www.sparkplugs.com. They aern't cheap but they are good. And don't need a fuel rail, btw.
 

*01GSR*

I (v) JDM
Yeah there was RC injectors, AEM FRP and fuel rail also installed when I go the car.

I was thinking also sticking with the stock head gasket, how much of a pain in the ass to install pistons or have someone else do it, how much you think??

should I worry about keeping low end torque or just go all out and get an IM for up top...?

I have 2 theories on torque, should I upgrade stuff or do certain things to keep get lower end where there isn't any OR F that and since it doesn't have any just build the top where it does have power? I think Torque is a lost cause.

??
 

TegSox

Super Duper Moderator
To install pistons right, the engine needs to be pulled and torn down to the bare block. Then the cylinders walls are honed. This 100% assures proper piston to wall clearance and proper break-in of the new piston rings. This also gives you the opportunity to overbore. Stock bore is 81mm, you can overbore to 81.25mm or 81.5mm, this will gain you some displacement. It's not a whole lot but every little bit helps when your talking about a 1.8L engine.

It cost me $500 to have the engine pulled out, tear it down, put it back together and reinstall it, but that also included some other labor I had done outside of the engine removal/tear down/back together/reinstall. And a good friend owned the shop/did the work, so I dunno what a regular shop charges. Then at another shop, it was $75 to bore and hone the cylinder walls. $58 to wash the block. $37 to fit the rods to my Wiseco pistons. And I had the head washed for another $23. <---not friend prices, regular prices.

What size are your RC injectors? RC's are good stuff.
 
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