Potential damages



#31
I was planning to after i got the caps hand tightened in place but the cam broke before i could get to that point. The haynes manual has the torque spec for the caps at 86in lbs but my wrench is in ft lbs so i looked uphow to convert in lbs to ft lbs and it came up at 7.16 ftlbs so thats what i was going yo torque it to but againe didn't get that far before it broke

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#32
Not sure what i could have done wrong, i put in yhe exhaust cam in no problem, hand tightened the capbolts until the gaps between the caps and head were almost closed then i was going to torque it down after i had the intake cam the same way i did the exact same thing to the intake side only with a erench intead of by hand and it broke

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#34
I was going to because thats what the book says to do but i didnt actually tighten them down, i just screwd the cap bolts in to keep the cams in place with the timing indicators lined up i was able to get the caps on the exhaustside in place by hand but the intake side i had trouble with. I was doing the same as the exhaust side only with a wrench because they bolts wouldnt turn by hand after a few threads, but i didnt tighten it all the way down before it broke but what seems odd to me is that after they broke, i was able to unscrew the bolts by hand even after not being able to put them in by hand. Is it possible that maybe the cam wasnt sitting in its place correctly and the pressure from the cap caused it to break?

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#35
Either way i have to get a new cam before i can do anything else to it, however i did get the crank and exhaust cam in place and still have the car ready to be takrn apart again for when im do get the new one

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R13

The other asshole
#36
The cam probably got in a bit of a bind, but even then I feel the cam may have already been compromised for it to break that easily. Maybe it just had a weak spot there.

What you have to do though when you tighten the cap down is just gradually go through the pattern tightening a little bit at a time until you work the caps down against the head. That keeps even pressure on the cam and the cap bolts so you're not putting a lot of stress on a couple of those fragile little cam cap bolts. So like when it gets tight enough to need a wrench/ratchet just go through the sequence turning each bolt about a half a turn or so until you get everything seated all the way down, then torque.
 
#37
Makes sense. I dont remember if i did that with the exhaust cam to get the caps close to the head but i know i had no trouble at all with it but when i get a replacement for the intake cam ill be sure to do it that way when installing it. But now that i think about it, when i was turning the bolts by hand the outer caps were going in alot easier than the inside ones, after it broke i removed the cam and put the caps back on the head so they wouldn't get lost and had no problem getting the bolts to go in by hand even on the ones i had used a wrench on when the xam broke

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#39
Ok guys very big update, i got the new intake cam put it in made it a point to use the inside out bolt pattern and had no problem getting it torqued down to spec. Made sure all my timing marks were lined up where they needed to be installed the timing belt, rotated the crankshaft counter clockwise 4 full rotations (with belt installed) and felt no tension everything was good. put everything back in its place sat the car back on the ground turned the key and it started on the first try! Well 4th try if you count the 3 times i tried before i realized i had intalled my spark plug wires in the wrong places.... took it for a drive around the neighborhood and got back home after about 15mins with no problem at all. i want to thank you guys for all the help yall gave me with this i n the end this wasnt as difficult as i thought it was going to be thanks again guys

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#40
Well im wondering now, should i still run a compression test just to see what the results look like ? The car ran just like it did before the belt broke but i want ro make sure everything is good before i try taking it on a long drive

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#41
Well im wondering now, should i still run a compression test just to see what the results look like ? The car ran just like it did before the belt broke but i want ro make sure everything is good before i try taking it on a long drive

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That or anything else yall suggest i should do before its first long drive?

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