Replacing oil pan, 3rd Gen



#4
i look underneath but the thing is the header is on the way so i thought i have to remove the header first and then i can remove the nuts holding the pan.. sorry dude if the weirdest question but ive been looking on that area and trying to figure it out how without removing my header.. sorry im just a new bee i never try this before..
 
#5
Stock or aftermarket header? If its stock, I think you can get away with just unbolting the B-pipe, and unbolting it from the catalytic converter. You may also need to remove the plastic cam cover to access a couple more bolts that are under it.
 
#6
Crap i have to take off the headers? my oilpan is a bt craked and leakin oill my car is a g2 so is it the same procedure?
 
#7
Yes it would be pretty similar. You may or may not have to remove the header. But draining the oilf first is a must, unless you want are pretending you are in one of those Castrol sludge commercials.
 

Ominous G2

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#8
Make sure you get some Hondabond and an OEM gasket. Autozone and other similar stores oil pan gaskets are shit. I think you have to remove the header/b pipe in order to clear the pick-up also. Don't over tighten it putting it back on either, you can warp the pan and get a leak.
 
#10
Best thing to do is if you can park it drain the oil,then let it sit over night because if you dont the oil drips like crazy off the crank on to you!
 
#11
With 180k miles, my 15 year old car is in dire need of a new oil pan gasket as It's leaking oil everywhere.

Tools Needed:

- 10mm Socket & Wrench
- 12mm socket & wrench
- 14mm socket & wrench
- 17mm socket
- Extension
- Oil Filter removal tool
- Silicone gasket




remove oil cap


Using a 17mm socket, remove the drain plug & watch out for oil coming out straight into your face. Drinking it is optional.



Or do what I did and drain it into a container to recycle.


Now remove the down pipe that's right below the oil pan & blocking it.
It should be 14mm & 12mm bolts. Oh yea, don't forget to unplug the oxygen sensor


Now remove the dust shield. It should be 17mm bolt & 10mm bolts (3)


Now remove a crapload of these 10mm nut & bolts around the oil pan.


Here it is removed. The old oil pan gasket was ridiculously hard. No wonder it's leaking oil everywhere.


Now put the oil pan gasket onto the oil pan (be careful as it only go in one way.) I also put some RTV silicone around the pan just for precaution. I suggest you use a razor blade and clean up any leftover gasket residue on the oil pan & block before putting the new one on.


Put the oil pan back in and then the dust shield. Tighten up all the bolts and then go back and make sure they're all tighten again. I recommend you use a torque wrench so that you don't overtightened them or break them.



Since my car have 180k miles on it, no need for any brand name or synthetic. Just put new oil in and enjoy.
**I recommend you change the oil filter also before lowering the car down.**
 
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#13
good write up :thumbs up

btw how do you know when you need to do this?
When you jacked the car up and saw your oil pan is covered in oil & it's leaking from your oil pan gasket :lol:
At any rate, my car had 180k miles on the odometer. I'm pretty sure ALL gasket in the car has hardened into rocks & doesn't seal anything anymore.
 




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