Tips for fixing those pesky b series oil pan leaks

[cdn_R050]

I was plagued with the oil pan leak on my b18c5, after getting it rebuilt the assembler slathered the oil pan and gasket in Honda bond, in the Honda manual it clearly states this is a no no, so I wasn't surprised my oil pan leaked like a seive. I think allot of people are misinformed and think that Honda bond is the way to go when in fact it's not.

I finally decided to get a new gasket, cleaning all the Honda bond off of everything was the hardest part of the whole job.

The manual calls for only 9 lbs/ft torque, most people don't have access to torque wrenches that go that low, so I'm sure a vast majority of people with this issue are over tightening the pans, causing the gaskets to bulge out and lose their seal.

Also, the manual calls for "liquid sealer" to be applied at 4 points on the block where there are seams, and nothing else, I'll add the page from the manual for reference.

So, using a fel pro gasket and the Honda manual I went ahead and did the job, tightening to spec and following the sequence in the manual as well, the only thing I did different was apply liquid sealer to just the oil pan flange itself, as it's very tacky and helps to hold the gasket in place, but isn't thick like Honda bond.

I now have a leak free oil pan, which I'm very happy with, and I didn't have to order the my Honda habit oil pan gasket to do it, I can't say enough good things about the liquid sealer, and will use it from now on.

**as a reminder, I only used the liquid sealer on 4 points on the block that the manual calls for, but I did spray the entire edge of the pan with a coat.**

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[98GS]

Subbed so I don't have to search for this again when I get around to doing mine.

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[Samurai_Blue]

i just tighten mine and tighten it until it stops leaking.

 

[Integraguy04]

I just did my oil pan gasket. I got an OEM gasket and bought a 3/8 torque wrench that goes that low. Worked like a charm

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[R13]

Another tip is to leave the oil pan off for several hours and give all the oil on the walls of the block time to seep out, otherwise you run the risk of the seal not being as good.

I'm using a fail-pro as well, probably not torqued to spec, but I left my pan off and put it back on the next day, 3 years later still no leak.

 

[Samurai_Blue]

I just did my oil pan gasket. I got an OEM gasket and bought a 3/8 torque wrench that goes that low. Worked like a charm

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when i torqued mine it leaked.

 

[Nick_C78]

I just did my oil pan gasket. I got an OEM gasket and bought a 3/8 torque wrench that goes that low. Worked like a charm

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Amazing how that works huh. I always use oem and torque to oem specs. However I torque in 4 steps. Same as every gasket. I do finger tight, 50%, 75%, then 100%. This method has never failed me on any gasket.

 

[Integraguy04]

Amazing how that works huh. I always use oem and torque to oem specs. However I torque in 4 steps. Same as every gasket. I do finger tight, 50%, 75%, then 100%. This method has never failed me on any gasket.

Yeah I know right. It's only the way the MFG tells you too lol

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[cdn_R050]

**EDIT SEPT.25/2015**

well, the oil pan started to leak again, and got fed up with 3 fel pro gaskets all leaking on me, I read about the myhondahabit.com composite oil pan gasket, it seems to work for people with b series oil pan gaskets that just won't stay sealed. I just didn't want to have to wait for the gasket since I'm parking the car for the year in a cpl weeks, so I decided to try something different. I bought a fel pro cork/rubber sheet, (part #3019) and using the original fel pro rubber gasket as a template I made my own gasket, I again used liquid sealer on the 4 points on the block and I sprayed the whole oil pan flange as well.

I used only the cork/rubber gasket that I made and left the rubber fel pro gasket out, and it worked perfectly. The cork material is much better as it's soft enough to make a nice seal but hard enough that it doesn't blow out when it's tightened like the rubber gasket does, so I highly highly recommended people using this instead of an aftermarket or oem oil pan gasket, if money is no object them the myhondahabit gasket is the way to go, with the weak cdn dollar the myhondahabit gasket would have cost me 150$ cdn, and the cork sheet was 20$.

it's been a few days and the gasket has held up, whereas any other rubber gasket would start leaking in the same one corner almost immediately.

Pics of the process:

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[cdn_R050]

After a cpl days of driving I re tightened the oil pan to keep it snug, and its holding up perfectly.

From now on any oil pan gasket I come across that's rubber I will buy the fel pro cork sheet and make my own gasket, I highly recommend to everyone use this method when changing the oil pan gasket unless money is no object opt for the myhondahabit gasket, but if you're on a budget or need the car on the road asap then make a cork gasket. I spent 2 weeks and had the oil pan off 6 times, and I followed the instructions from the Honda manual and the pan would still leak, so if I can save anyone else from going through that nightmare I'll be happy.

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[R13]

I used cork gaskets for years on old v8s and they do seal better, but unfortunately the seal doesn't typically last more than a couple of years.

Interested to see if this one lasts.

 

[cdn_R050]

I'll keep u guys posted. If it lasted a cpl years id be more than happy, I only drive the car a few months a year as it is, and I'm going to buy a myhondahabit.com gasket over the winter and hold onto it until the cork gasket gives up.

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[jdmjim]

ultra black rtv

 

[98GS]

2 years since I subbed to this and I still haven't changed mine lol.


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