type r ls/vtec

[emd513]

i found a complete type r head wit valve cover for 500 bucks. i was told i would just need wiring for the vtec solenoid and that i can use my b18a dizzy just have to cut off the bottom and put in the solenoid. but i though i need the ecu as well. also will it bolt up to a b18a block or is there alot of drilling and taping to get it to fit. any links to this info will be appreciated. thanks in advance

 

[Samurai_Blue]

you need a ls vtec kit and a ecu

 

[mirrorimg]

LS/VTEC, the most commonly talked about swap in the Honda community. Try searching for some information out there, it is in abundance.

 

[SnD3]

They have something under engine, on this one... Worth a read! http://forums.g2ic.com/tegtips/

 

[hgocasca]

Just a side note, good find, I can't find one where I'm at, I wanted to do the same vtec head on my block, you'll need to do some bottom end work if you wanna spin your motor that fast, just putting it out there

 

[emd513]

i have over 2000 bucks in my bottom end right now in mods and machine work and still have to get the pistons rings and sleeve supports. im pretty sure ill be alright revving that high. im shooting for 500 whp now

 

[hgocasca]

Just make sure the rod bolts are the arp ones

 

[emd513]

have eagle rods and ordering arp studs in a couple of weeks. ill probably have 3500 in the lower end before its all done in parts to make sure i get what i want and make it reliable

 

[hgocasca]

Good man, researched your shit

 

[DaddyBuiltRacing]

have eagle rods and ordering arp studs in a couple of weeks. ill probably have 3500 in the lower end before its all done in parts to make sure i get what i want and make it reliable

You got ripped off. You have 275 dollar rods, stock sleeves yet have 3500 in the bottom end? I'd be pissed if I spent that much on that setup lol. I have 3600 in my bottom end and thats replacing every thing possible in it with some of the best parts money can buy

 

[emd513]

i punched it 40 over dont believe in sleeving it no point if you put in the sleeve brace in. i got the rods on ebay for that there h beams buy the way and from eagle there 550. so get that right. had my crank balance and turned. order clevite race rod and main bearings out of a company in florida 175. shaved the block cleaned and bore was 250. crank was 200. now je pistons and rings on ebay from a guy that is selling them there 575. the brace i found for 300, arp studs head 150. mains 100.now how do u figure i am getting fucked.

 

[DaddyBuiltRacing]

Eagle rods are 500 bucks huh? Interesting, cause Eagle list them on their website for 400, but if you were smart and looked around you would see that they are anywhere from 275-330 dollars from just about every car shop in the united states. Here they are for $320 shipped: http://store.phantasmusa.com/crs5394a3d.html

By "sleeve brace" I am gonna assume you mean "block gaurd" which is 1. A waste of money as it does more damage then good and 2. $95.50 for a golden eagle one, and even cheaper for other companies.

ARP's for a LS are 100 bucks, hell I paid 130 for my GSR ones which are more expensive for some damn reason lol.

ARP mains are about 100 so ill give you that (did you have your block line honed? It will need to be if you run the arp main studs, just a heads up)

SRP pistons: $479 (I know mine were cheaper then that when I bought them for a D series): http://realstreetperformance.com/store/srp-forged-pistons-honda-b18-b18a-b18a1-b18b-b18b1-b20-202.html

I'll give ya the 250 for shaving, cleaning and boring cause machines shops aren't cheap. I'll also give you 200 for the crank, but even then thats high since most times you can pick up LS cranks for 50-100 bucks.

Do the math and thats under 1600 bucks lol. Like I said, you are getting raped. Search the internet and find the best deals to save you some money man, don't pay twice as much as what its worth!!

For 3k you could've gotten a much better setup, thats why I said you got ripped off. For instance you could've gotten something like this:

Benson sleeved block
Benson balanced and micropolished crank
CP pistons and rings
Pauter rods
ACL bearings
OEM (TypeR) oil pump
Lower gasket set
Blueprint and assembly
Boxing, return shipping and insurance (lower 48 only)
Total $3450

Eagle rods substituted for Pauters...$3050

Or how about a very similar setup to what you have listed
Economy build (no sleeves, bored to 81.5mm) with CP's and Eagle rods...$2350

See why I say you got ripped off? Not bashing your setup, just bashing who ever is raping you for money!

 

[DaddyBuiltRacing]

BTW wanna see a cool picture of an Eagle Rod I pulled from my buddies GSR?

Make sure you stay on top of oil changes and don't over heat the motor, or this could be you lol. I am going to assume the motor had its brains beat out due to the shit that I drained from the oil pan, take a looky

 

[emd513]

that just looks like your dumb ass friend couldnt remember to watch the temp gauge and cracked the head and water was getting in it. which probably means instead of the 200 tmep max it should be running he was probably hitting 280 plus. second thats i beams not hbeams which hold 200 + more whp. and you say you can find them cheaper on all these parts i looked for weeks before i started buying and the prices i got are cheap, but im not going to buy the cheapest so that that shit happens to mine. oh and it is 84mm bore not that little 81.5, i said 40 over not .5 over the ls comes with an 81mm factory. you got ripped not me. a stock crank done like i have had it done will hold 550 plus already talked to several honda mechanics and machine shops. also give me the link to h=those arp prices. i found them on ebay for the prices i gave while all the dealers i have looked at are 20 to 30 dollars more. im going to run je pistons hurd better things with them then the ones you went with. the block guards i was refering to that keep the sleeves from flexing especially if its turbo and revving pass 8500. dude i have done my research on the bottom end and talked several even the builders around here with 400+ in hatchs with b16. if it has lasted for 3 + years as dailys for them then i think i will be just fine. you got your way to build and i have mine. i dont need any bullshit input. i am just now starting to read on ls/vtecs and how to do them so no i dont know the upper but i can make a lower hold more than im looking to get. you say i got ripped i think you did. let it be that and go on. also if your buddy was stupid enough not to pay attention to his car to have it do that when he had it tell him to stay away from another car. get him a discount card to a bike shop they dont need the maintance just pedal with some wd40 once a year. also i have built motors for 12 years on off for myself school and friends this isnt my first time so please dont treat me like it is.

 

[emd513]

look sorry if i pissed anyone off in that post, i work 2 jobs to get what i want and today was a bad day at both with the bullshit i put up with for the lousy pay. to all the people that gave the input i was looking for thanks i do appreciate it and please keep it coming. to the ones that want to whore up threads with bullshit and argue on what others are doing with there cars, please stop its stupid we are all here trying to get and give quality info to help fellow inthusists out not be douches. like i said thanks again to the guys that have helped, and if i spelled anything wrong get over it ive been up for 18 hours i dont care.