Neons footwell wiring question

Adriannyo

New Member
suspendedHatch said:
Upon drawing this I realized that it was pointless because you will never attempt it once you see what's involved.
Still doubting me?


http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=108142&sku=ULT31368
You said to get "a fuse with the same rating as your neon's max Amps."
I don't know what the amps on these neons are.
Click the picture on the neons to take you to the website of these neons (cathodes).
On Google, I did a search and I quote:
http://www.oznium.com/cathode-kit said:
Each cathode transformer draws about 0.7 amps of power at 12 volts.
Does this sound about right? If so, what fuse would I put in #17?
 

suspendedHatch

Legalize Illegal Aliens
Return that solid wire and get stranded wire. Stranded just means it's a bundle of wires twisted together. That wire you have will be impossible to solder. Also, make sure you get 18 gauge / awg. Higher numbers are actually smaller wire. 20 gauge stranded wire would be very thin, making it hard to work with, adding resistance, and it would heat up and possibly burn the wire.

A 1A fuse would be good, but even a 3, 5, or 7.5A would work fine. Lower fuse ratings are theoretically safer but any of those size fuses would protect you if your wire were to ground out.

That's a lighted switch. If you want the light to work, you'll have to hook it up to it's own power source, ie tap into the neon power connection.

Those are the small quick disconnects. Try slipping it onto the pins on your relay and you'll see what I mean. That's what I hate about Radio Shack. That and their high prices. See if you can find the wider quick disconnects at a mom and pop electronics supply store.

Did you get the Channel Lock 909's? Some strippers?

I'll try to keep an eye out for this thread but if you have any questions, PM me and I'll help you out. Good luck!
 
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thenoxus1

Quick-Spool Racing LLC
Feel free to pm me to if you need help man. Also, believe it or not, home depot has the connects decently cheap haha, or at least the one by me does..
 


Adriannyo

New Member
I have a 1998 Integra LS 4DR.



As for the quick disconnects, I already had these in my house. I tried it and it works...snug! I needed pliers to be able to pull it out.



As you can see, I have small fuses. Also, you told me to use the second from the left... It looks weird. >_<

This is plugged in it right now:



Serves no purpose. Just like some sort of cap.
 

suspendedHatch

Legalize Illegal Aliens
Ah, that's why I asked. You have the later fuse box. I have to look that one up.

That black thing is a fuse puller. It's like tweezers.

Glad those quick disconnects work for you. I've had to stretch them out in the past (maybe a different brand than yours). I end up stabbing myself in the thumb with a pick tool every time.
 

suspendedHatch

Legalize Illegal Aliens
Okay, so on your fuse box, the far left one is your constant power. The second from the left is your parking light output. You will disregard the part where I told you to insert a fuse in #17.
 


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Adriannyo

New Member
A 1A fuse would be good, but even a 3, 5, or 7.5A would work fine.
Where would I put this 1A fuse? In a in-line fuse holder? And, by the looks of my picture, my #17 has a fuse in it. I'ma go check what it's for...

#17 is Heater A/C Relay



The fuse above and one to the right (#29) is empty since I don't have fogs. I can use that slot, no? I can put a 7.5A in there.

/e Should I get this wire instead?
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062648

Also, I don't understand why speaker wire won't work... It's stranded and can be bought at 18-gauge.
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2036271
 
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suspendedHatch

Legalize Illegal Aliens

This is the later Integra fuse box. 98+ I believe, indicated by the smaller sized fuses. As always with my fusebox diagrams, option outputs are: red constant 12V, white parking light 12v, oranges are accessory 12v.
 
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suspendedHatch

Legalize Illegal Aliens
18 gauge stranded wire is extremely common for automotive use and I would be surprised if you couldn't find it at Radio Shack, Walmart, Autozone, and every little electronics supply store. If the package doesn't say it's solid core, then it's stranded wire.

There is technically nothing wrong with using speaker wire, it's just very sloppy. When I drop someone's dash and see speaker wire or some recycled lamp cord or something being used, it tells me everything I need to know about the quality of work I'm looking at. It's like duct tape on anything other than ducts.

On the older fuse boxes, fuse 17 was on the option circuit I was telling you to use. On yours, the Helms doesn't indicate that the option output has it's own separate fuse. So, DO NOT plug your quick disconnect onto the option output until all your wiring is complete. And yes, I recommend that you get an inline fuse holder and put a fuse in there. I have no idea which of your fuses is protecting that option output.
 

Adriannyo

New Member


Got it. :)

Too bad I read that I needed an in-line fuse holder when I got home already. >_<

I'm going to draw a picture predicting what I need to do. Correct me where I'm wrong.

Also, I read on your sig's website that I should tap into the passenger's dome light cable. True?
 

Adriannyo

New Member
Let me know if everything looks right...
Also, I didn't put the in-line fuse holder cause I don't know where it goes. >_<





 

suspendedHatch

Legalize Illegal Aliens
No, go into the driver's side A pillar. You only have to worry about that statement if you're getting the trigger in the driver's kick.

The cigarette lighter isn't a constant 12v so that wont work (unless your cig lighter works with the key out). Branch off your constant 12v connection from the fuse box instead.

The inline fuse holder goes into the fuse box option output and then becomes your power connection. I didn't think to tell you earlier because with the older fuse box you don't need it.

On the relay connections when you have two wires going to one pin, crimp both wires into the same quick disconnect. It's a bit cleaner and faster than branching off the wire.

When you run your wires, have them bundled together as much as possible. Don't make a spider web. Zip tie everything up and keep it clean.

After this you should do a main relay kill switch.
 

Adriannyo

New Member
No, go into the driver's side A pillar. You only have to worry about that statement if you're getting the trigger in the driver's kick.
Will any of my 4 doors, when opened, trigger the neons if plugged into the driver's side A pillar?

The cigarette lighter isn't a constant 12v so that wont work (unless your cig lighter works with the key out). Branch off your constant 12v connection from the fuse box instead.
Won't branching off my constant 12v make my switch's LED always be on? I only want the switch to work when the car is on.

The inline fuse holder goes into the fuse box option output and then becomes your power connection. I didn't think to tell you earlier because with the older fuse box you don't need it.
Okay. So... from relay's 85 > in-line fuse holder > option in fuse box?

On the relay connections when you have two wires going to one pin, crimp both wires into the same quick disconnect. It's a bit cleaner and faster than branching off the wire.
Yea, I saw that on your website. I'll be doing that.

When you run your wires, have them bundled together as much as possible. Don't make a spider web. Zip tie everything up and keep it clean.
Thanks, I will.

After this you should do a main relay kill switch.
Explain please. >_<
 

suspendedHatch

Legalize Illegal Aliens
Will any of my 4 doors, when opened, trigger the neons if plugged into the driver's side A pillar?
Yes.

Won't branching off my constant 12v make my switch's LED always be on? I only want the switch to work when the car is on.
No it wont. The switch LED only comes on when the switch is on.

(The switch is an override that prevents the neons from working. It isn't used to turn them on and it's never affected by the key or anything else. (If you want the switch to work as an on/off, in my diagram you would cut the wire between the diodes and the switch, connect the diode side directly to the neon's ground, and connect the switch side directly to chassis ground.))

We're not using positive side switching. I prefer to have negative side switching and in this case it's necessary anyway. The power has to be constant in order for the neons to work with no key in the ignition (when you open the door). Our circuit always has power available but no power will flow unless there's ground. It doesn't have ground unless the relay is activated by the parking lights OR if a door is opened causing the door trigger wire to go to ground AND your switch is on. You need the diodes to keep the parking lights and door triggers separate or else the door trigger will affect the parking lights and vice versa...

...ah shit. I forgot the other diode. I revised the diagram on page 1 to include the other diode. W/out this diode, your dome light will come on when your parking lights are on.


Okay. So... from relay's 85 > in-line fuse holder > option in fuse box?
Exactly.


Explain please. >_<
A kill switch is for security against theft. Integras are the most stolen car in the US. Putting a kill switch on the main relay is the most effective protection against theft aside from adding a car alarm. And it will be cake compared to the project you're undertaking right now.

Main Relay Kill Switch
 
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