91 Integra Problems Key Gets Stuck & Speedo Cable...Need Help!

The_818_Boi

Keep It JDM Bruhh!
Hey guys I have to problems with my automatic tegg. I dont want to overpay for these problems so I want to fix them myyself.
1st problem is that every time I drive my car the key gets stuck on the ignition & it doesnt allow me to remove it(especially on cold days), Ive done my resarch over this & it seems that the problem is the 21 yr old grease on the shifter gets hard when its cold & it doesnt let the car know is in Parking & thats why the key gets stuck... Do any of you seen a DIY on how to fix the problem? or maybe a write up? Ive looked everywhere.:(
2nd problems is the annoying speedometer cable that makes the churping noise when the car is rolling, Ive looked through forums but I cant find a good DIY or write up with pics so it can be faster & easy. The 1 on G2IC is decent but the pics stop working so its confusing.
Thanks in advance to everybody that helps!
 

djzachtyler

Looking for my next Teg..
you really do not need pics to do the speedo cable...

Usually the chirping is when you start getting frayed wires in the cable assembly... or the clip at the back of the cluster is not there & the cable gets a kink.

replacing it is about the easiest repair you can do. I had to replace mine when I first got my 2nd gen & it took all of 20 minutes.

remove AC/Heater knobs, Remove 4 screws securing the bezel to the dash, unclip switches from bezel, remove 4 screws holding cluster pull out cluster unclip the cable from the speedo.

pop the hood & follow the speedo cable to the VSS (top rear of tranny) pop the cable loose (there is a clip in there some say remove, I skipped that and just yanked the bad cable out)

then reverse that process and put it all back together... when re inserting the new cable into the VSS... make sure it goes all the way in and you feel a solid "Click" as the tabbed sides seat in the VSS. Run cable back thru firewall and clip to the back if the cluster and slap your dash back together...

it almost takes longer to type how to do this repair than it does to do the repair itself...
 

Charly[horse]

Name = John
The key getting stuck was a problem that I had when I was auto too. If you take off the cover that goes around the shifter you will see the mechanism on the right of the shifter. If you press on that it will allow you to take the key out. To be honest I never fixed it because one of the tabs in mine was broken. You could try to regrease it (which I did and it worked for a couple days) or you could try to keep pressure on it somehow. There is wiring that you can do that will disable that and allow you to take the key out as well.
 

The_818_Boi

Keep It JDM Bruhh!
Charly[horse];1169874 said:
The key getting stuck was a problem that I had when I was auto too. If you take off the cover that goes around the shifter you will see the mechanism on the right of the shifter. If you press on that it will allow you to take the key out. To be honest I never fixed it because one of the tabs in mine was broken. You could try to regrease it (which I did and it worked for a couple days) or you could try to keep pressure on it somehow. There is wiring that you can do that will disable that and allow you to take the key out as well.
Yea its really bad cuz it takes me like 15-20 mins so the key comes out every morning. b4 skool ..
Wat type of grease did you use? Did u clean out the old grease from the spring & the ball mechanism thing?
 


jadedtool

New Member
I can comment on the speedo problem. I recently had the same problem and was able to fix it in a similar way to what djzachtyler described. It wasn't too bad but I found it was quite time consuming because there is not very much clearance when you are removing the cluster from the dash. It was hard to unplug the connectors and even tougher to get them back in. It was also tricky to get the speedo back into the VSS. It's totally do-able and a great learning experience but I wouldn't plan on it being a super quick fix unless perhaps you were quite experienced. I could probably do it in less than half the time now that I did it once.
 

The_818_Boi

Keep It JDM Bruhh!
I can comment on the speedo problem. I recently had the same problem and was able to fix it in a similar way to what djzachtyler described. It wasn't too bad but I found it was quite time consuming because there is not very much clearance when you are removing the cluster from the dash. It was hard to unplug the connectors and even tougher to get them back in. It was also tricky to get the speedo back into the VSS. It's totally do-able and a great learning experience but I wouldn't plan on it being a super quick fix unless perhaps you were quite experienced. I could probably do it in less than half the time now that I did it once.
Yea Ive read that u lave very little space 2 work with after u take the cluster out & that it can be tricky installin the new speedo cable
 

Charly[horse]

Name = John
Yea its really bad cuz it takes me like 15-20 mins so the key comes out every morning. b4 skool ..
Wat type of grease did you use? Did u clean out the old grease from the spring & the ball mechanism thing?
I don't remember exactly, I think I actually just used some grease for bike hubs lol. But until you fix it for real just take the center console out and press down on it and you will be able to release your key. I guaruntee you will feel ghetto though :p
 


The_818_Boi

Keep It JDM Bruhh!
Charly[horse];1170432 said:
I don't remember exactly, I think I actually just used some grease for bike hubs lol. But until you fix it for real just take the center console out and press down on it and you will be able to release your key. I guaruntee you will feel ghetto though :p
Lol U mean to just press down the shifter once I take out the whole center console? I think you have to remove the whole underneath the dash to just remove the center console... Ive read the you need dielectric grease for the shifter plugs and springs.
 

TegraTiger

New Member
Dash panels removal

In my '91 Teg, to remove the center console,
  1. 1st you remove the plastic panel "knee bolsters" from both sides (driver & passenger). Use a Philips screwdriver for the 2 screws on the bottom, the top has spring clips that just pop out (be careful not to crack the plastic).
  2. Then you will see the (hidden) screws to remove the center console. After removing the screws (long ones go in the middle side), 1st lift the end near the shifter, then maneuver the console down & away from the dash. It's somewhat easy and very do-able.
  • As for the grease, you only need to use "dielectric" grease for electrical connections. It's grease is more like Vaseline than actual grease.
  • For mechanical moving parts (not inside the engine), use Slick 50 wheel bearing grease. That's what I use, works great.
 

TegraTiger

New Member
Speedo Cable What? No Room?

Yea Ive read that u lave very little space 2 work with after u take the cluster out & that it can be tricky installin the new speedo cable
Dude, to have more work space to repair stuff behind the dash:
  1. 1st remove the driver's side "knee bolster" plastic panel.
  2. Then remove the metal panel behind it. Uses 4-10mm bolts. Use a 10mm socket and short extension. (You may have to remove the center console to get at all the bolts. Go ghetto on it.)
  3. Then you will have enough room to reach around, put a drop light, contort your body like a pretzel to repair broken crap etc behind the dash.
:)
 

The_818_Boi

Keep It JDM Bruhh!
In my '91 Teg, to remove the center console,
  1. 1st you remove the plastic panel "knee bolsters" from both sides (driver & passenger). Use a Philips screwdriver for the 2 screws on the bottom, the top has spring clips that just pop out (be careful not to crack the plastic).
  2. Then you will see the (hidden) screws to remove the center console. After removing the screws (long ones go in the middle side), 1st lift the end near the shifter, then maneuver the console down & away from the dash. It's somewhat easy and very do-able.
  • As for the grease, you only need to use "dielectric" grease for electrical connections. It's grease is more like Vaseline than actual grease.
  • For mechanical moving parts (not inside the engine), use Slick 50 wheel bearing grease. That's what I use, works great.
Thans 4 the help man! Ill give try today. A question about the grease,do I put the grease on the springs after I remove the old grearse right?
 
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