94 RS DB7 is toast. New plans.

DonJulio

Reppin' tha NW
I've been working on my car day and night off and on for several weeks the past quarter of the yearish since I've gotten it.

I was hoping for a much better starting point but it looks like I'm back at ground zero, and it looks like it's time to part ways.

Here's a rewind.

1. Bought the 94rs DB with an oil smoking issue, though smoke was never apparent at idle.
2. Proceeded to change all valve seals to supertech viton valve seals, had no air compressor to lock valves, cut some corners and ended up dropping a valve.
3. Pulled head, found some burnt valves, expected with the prolonged oil burning. Spark plugs fouled. Hot tanked and resurfaced the head.
4. Reinstalled head, lashed valves, new oem headgasket and head bolts. All set to specs.
5. Car has proceeded to billow smoke, has been a prolonged issue. Parting ways.

I also am in possession of a 91 EF sedan, 5 speed. Which has no real history to me besides the EF chassis was my first car. A EF hatch to be exact. So for stupid reason I fancy it. It's a sedan because I am a father of 2 kids. There goes all my money to spend on banging custom parts.

There's many pros and cons to my situation. I do need some information if anyone is knowledgable.
This will be a long overdrawn project. A name like "Project: Diggin' fer my wedding ring outta honey bucket" sounds appropriate. I will segregate my 2 primary goals into 2 stages. Stage A, then B. A being what I can do right now on my days off while waiting on the machine shop/parts to arrive in the mail for B.

This is no build thread, it is a work in progress. More of a stickynote for reference.
*most of the db will be salvaged to build a more capable ef civic.

Stage A)
1. Front&rear disc upgrade/conversion. Full dc knuckle/spindle/hubs up front. Full dc trailing assembly in the rear.
*bolt on-camber/alignment/geometry issues are known and will be corrected.

2. Semi wire tuck. Debating on keeping AC.
*ef sedan is equipped with AC, kids come to mine. Will look into possible retrofit kits. Keeping AC will dictate whether or not I run a tucked full rad or a half rad.
3. Powersteering delete, PS bracket on the head will utilize a timing belt tensioner designed for longblocks that have been milled and decked. To the point whereas the oem tensioner can no longer pull the timing belt tight.
*ef sedan is equipped with a manual steering rack
4. Dpfi to mpfi to obd1 conversion

Stage B)

2. Drop LS longblock, hydro tranny.
*rebuild bottom end. bore/deck/hone/ridgereamed to 81.5mm, new oem valves, lighter flywheel, exedy stg1 clutch kit, arp fasteners, oem bearings.

3. Port head, thermal intake manifold gasket, evap and charcoal canister delete.

Year 2015
Stage C)

1. J35 TL type-s swap with 6MT.
 

DonJulio

Reppin' tha NW
The Ls will be overhauled to atleast stock specs, I do not plan on building it anymore at this point. I don't have any desire to buy another longblock and drop it in my EF. It will result in the same issues. With a rebuilt engine, I know I have a worthwhile spare and if I do decide to build it like an LsV for example. All I would need to complete most of the bottom end is an oil filter sandwich plate, gsr girdle/oil pickup/windagetray tray, forged rod and pistons. This opens up many possibilities.

With my build(s) put into reverse it will give me time to consider other options. I realize now I should've bottom line absolutely saved for a gsr, but the RS was dirt cheap and it came with a hefty price. I learned a lot though. This RS is also the first twincam honda I've ever owned and I can see why it's so popular. Simple yet effective.

Ever tried setting timing on a f23vtec on a cg accord? Sob it has so much shit to align. Balance shafts all over the place. I hate working on my brothers car.

Anyways. I'm probably overly obsessing about myself and my future plans.

Bottom line tho. This LS will be in the EF without a doubt. This ricers got to much pride to sell his projects for a small percentage of what he's spent.
 

DonJulio

Reppin' tha NW
I am considering those jdm ctr pistons to bump the compression.
Anyone know if I need new rods?
 

96LSteg

Jemel
You will need extensive head work to make the CTR pistons work with the LS head. They are going to do more than bump the compression lol you will go from 9.2:1 to somewhere around 13.1:1 so pump gas goes out of the window for you (except E85) You should look into p30 (jdm b16) or pr3(usdm b16) they will bump you to a manageable static compression and you can still use pump gas
 

DonJulio

Reppin' tha NW
Word.

Kinda looking for something around 10, 10.5.

I want to eventually venture into high compression turbo.
 
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