Adjusting Tein RS circuit master

shahriar35

New Member
Hey all, just bought a Type R 2 weeks ago from the mid west and bought it to CA. We tried raising the car while the Teins were on the car and that didnt seem to work.

On Saturday I spent half the day removing the Teins and installing the stock suspension. Salt, snow and cars dont mix.

So after even removing them, I still could not adjust the height of the teins, the 2 adjustable plates seem to be seived together. I sprayed them with PB blaster and I have to try again. A buddy of my friend even put the 2 wrench of them and stepped on them in the opposite direction and they would not budge.

Any advice?

Also on the type RS, how do you adjust the lower adjuster, the smaller canister? Like how do u adjust that in sync with the top adjuster?


Thanks
 

mirrorimg

Well-Known Member
Mine were stuck when I got them too. They are aluminum, so they arent rusted on. What happened is that lots of sand and grit are compacted into the thread and the nut cannot turn. I had to do this and it took a few days to get them all spinning.

You need to clean out as much as you can, then, with the help of some lubricant, try turning the nuts one way, then the other. Keep alternating back and forth, continuously cleaning any grit you see coming out of the threads.

Eventually it will rotate 1/4" at a time, then 1/2", and more and more until its free. Its a pain in the ass, but if you feel the coilovers are worth a bit of time, sweat, and curse words, then go for it.
 

Daybid

Dump or Die.
Agreed with mirror... thats the result of the threads when people dont clean them once in a while..

i say make sure youre twisting both of the spanner wrenchers the right way..

and dont just put it on the ground.. try using a clamp to hold the coil and itll be a lot easier..

maybe wd-40?? haha idk
 

BrokenTalon27

W.F.O
I'm with Jason on this one...sometimes you just have to man handle and cuss it till it works.
 


shahriar35

New Member
I will try again this weekend. It was pretty bad last weekend. The suspension is defiantly worth it. They have PB Blaster on them, so maybe it will help. I will take a brush to them and see if that helps.
 

sonicvybe

new driver
Toothbrush and WD40 worked for me. It seems worthwhile doing this once in a while if you don't adjust them for a long period of time.
 

shahriar35

New Member
A few days a buddy and me took a hammer to the wrench and struts. We were successful on one of them and were able to adjust it, but it was a failure on the others.

And today I had time to play with the suspension. I dissembled the entire thing and tried cleaning them up and working the wrench back and forth by myself, so the hammering idea didnt work well being alone and all. I tried cleaning them up but no success on the other ones. At the same time I found a lot of the threads stripped off, probably from the coils rubbing against the body, is this repairable?

Anymore advice? I am thinking using degreaser, brushing them, letting them dry and then using compressed air?
 


shahriar35

New Member
This is some information from doing a search on google:

Its called GALLING.. a chemical reaction between dissimilar metals. . IE steel(damper body im assuming HA/HE/HR) and aluminum ( the lock collar.)
Depending on the severity, you may have a serious problem. TEIN was one of the worst when it came to collar galling. I actually made up an attachment for my air hammer to unseize collars as I used to provide Coilover maintenance as a service.
ANYWAYS. . Here is how i would go about unseizing stuck collars.

-take them out of the car.
-dissasemble coilover (remove springs, upper perches etc)
-put the damper in a vice. You need to have it secured, but not damage it. . I had some aluminum soft jaws. Or wood, Or just clamp it on a part that ISNT the damper, like the attachment point. DONT clamp it by the bushing, The whole reason you took it out of the car is to have it SECURED RIGIDLY in a vice, and NOT have bushing movement. .
-now, you need this shit called CORROSION X. . It is THE BOMB. . if not.. use penetrating fluid/wd40/acetone.. anything you have. .Spray the connection between the collar and damper. . You should see white crusty shit between them. .
-scrape the crusty shit away with a pick.
-HAMMER or TAP FIRMLY the collar with a METAL to METAL connection, (NO HANDLE). . ( I use a DE-handled prybar and GRIND THE END TO FIT THE COLLAR PERFECTLY, you want the most contact with the corner shape. . If you use the sharp prypar end you WILL break your collar.
-do not pull on it or use leverage yet. you need to basically crack out or disintegrate the crusty white galling shit. . IF you try to use leverage you will just wreck your shocks or your wrench .
-continue scraping/spraying and hammering till they move.. My air hammer made VERY short work of this. . And the damper could often me done in-situ.
-They WILL eventually move. .
-If you have a lock collar and a Spring perch seized .. Concentrate on the Spring perch as it has more meat. . Less chance of braking the whole thing. . TEIN lock collars (older HA/HR/HE) were VERY fragile. .You most likely WILL break it if its seized. .
 

shahriar35

New Member
So I tried a method with using dilutted simple green and PB blaster. I cleaned them with diluted simple green to clean them up with a brush. I dried them and then sprayed PB blaster. I layed them on their side and used a piece of wood at the butt of the strut to keep them from moving. used the wrenches in opposite direction, had a buddy hold one while I hammered the other wrench in the oppsite direct and just hammered away, switching back sides from time to time. I sprayed them often with Simple green then brushed them and then PB blaster, this helped move the little bits of stuff around the collar area. This method worked for 3 struts, I am still stuck on the last one.
 
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