All Motor Help...

[95teg]

im deciding on an all motor set up.. a few questions tho..

- what do you think about CTR pistons and keeping my stock gsr rods? good or bad idea.
- what is a multi-angle valve job?
- what are good valve springs, why stiffer ones?
- would ITR valves be a good choice for new valves? why are new valevs good?
- would getting new cams be a good choice?
- would a VAFC help?
- should i invest in an aftermarket intake manifold? (alot of pple say the dual stage IM sucks)

... im looking for a reliable motor, trying to get as much power and keeping OEM parts, along with a good price.
i plan on setting up a NOS kit, also.. something like a 75 shot.. do you think this could be a 13 second or lower car?

specs.. 1995 GSR
150,xxx miles (had a stock head rebuild not to long ago, due to a broken timing belt)
also your basic I / H / C / E..

.. what do you think an average price for a build like this would be? should it be p&p'ed?

thanks alot, i realize this is a rather large question post.. all thoughts are welcome and appreciated. again sorry im new to this all motor stuff, (damn n00bs )
- Chase

 

[95teg]

but then recently, i was looking at www.c-speedracing.com and playing with the compression calculator, and when i put in all the specs (b18c1 block / head / OEM head gasket..) and added the CTR pistons [ pct(JDM B16B) ] i came out with 12.0:1 compression! And with just B16A pistons [ pr3(USDM B16A) ], i came out with an 11.3:1 compression. the thing is ive read with any compression at 12 or higher you would need to run race gas, i want to keep this car running 93 octane. what do you guys think? (also i did the pr3's becz they are probably much easier to get ahold of than the p30 JDM B16A)..

 

[Eviloliv3]

im deciding on an all motor set up.. a few questions tho..

- what do you think about CTR pistons and keeping my stock gsr rods? good or bad idea.
- what is a multi-angle valve job?
- what are good valve springs, why stiffer ones?
- would ITR valves be a good choice for new valves? why are new valevs good?
- would getting new cams be a good choice?
- would a VAFC help?
- should i invest in an aftermarket intake manifold? (alot of pple say the dual stage IM sucks)

... im looking for a reliable motor, trying to get as much power and keeping OEM parts, along with a good price.
i plan on setting up a NOS kit, also.. something like a 75 shot.. do you think this could be a 13 second or lower car?

specs.. 1995 GSR
150,xxx miles (had a stock head rebuild not to long ago, due to a broken timing belt)
also your basic I / H / C / E..

.. what do you think an average price for a build like this would be? should it be p&p'ed?

thanks alot, i realize this is a rather large question post.. all thoughts are welcome and appreciated. again sorry im new to this all motor stuff, (damn n00bs )
- Chase

i would suggest the B16 pistions, because you dont want to risk the chance of getting a bad batch of gas and screwing up your motor

a Multi-angle valve job is just a regular valve job (3 angle). you can get a 5 angle valve job, which is meant for more performance, or you can get the 3 angle, but using different angles for performance. check around your are for places that do headwork and go talk to them about it

you want stiffer valve springs if you are using a bigger cam, because if you keep the stock springs in there, the bigger lift cam will push down on the springs, and cause them to bind, meaning the coils could get stuck, like a Slinky does over time. and that will keep the valve open and then up comes the piston and WHACK!!! new motor needed

i dont think that ITR valves are any different. you really only need new valves if ALL your current valves are pitted or burnt, meaning there are sections where the valve touches the valve seat where there are holes. have a machine shop inspect your head

if you want more power, get bigger cams, figure out what kind of power goals you want, and choose the cams that will let you reach that goal

i would not suggest a VAFC, simply for the fact that when you adjust the fuel curve, it messes with the timing. so you may gain some HP, but in reality you are still loosing it. for the same money, you can get a Hondata, or better yet, Neptune. http://www.neptune.evans-tuning.com

your GSR manifold was meant to give gains in the midrange, as well as the top end. if you are looking for both, keep it, if you are looking for top end, get a Skunk2, ITR or AEBS manifold

reliable and Nitrous kits should not go together, unless you have some type of engine management that can actually handle it (the VAFC will not handle it at all) even then, you are lowering the life of your motor every time you spray

P+P will help your gains if you use a better flowing IM, with cams and a good exhaust. if you are using stock components, then i dont think it would do much help

 

[Baldy201]

I second what evil said. Do the B16 pistons, the lower compression will be godd for most second stage cams. You found out your static compression on c-speedracing. What you want to look for is your dynamic compression. That takes into account your cams and pistions to find your cylinder PSI and true compression.
Linky
The link above will figure out what your dynamic compression will be. Also look at your stock PSI. Then Plug in the cam ABDC spec and the spec for the pistons and then you will figure out what kind of compression your look in at.

What your shooting for is around the same cylinder PSI. If you go too high you will kill your top end. Never go under the stock PSI, you will lose power.

Stock Intake Cam ABDC Spec (in degrees)

LS (b18a) 31

LS (b18b) 23.5

GSR (b17a & b18c1) 40

ITR (b18c5) 45

JDM ITR (b18c) 45


Stock Dynamic Cranking Pressures (assuming 600 ft altitude in psi) [dynamic CR]

Using the dynamic CR calculator ( http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/comprAdvHD.htm ):

LS (b18a) 176 [8.67:1]

LS (b18b) 181 [8.84:1]

GSR (b18c1) 188 [9.11:1]

ITR (b18c5) 197 [9.46:1]

JDM ITR (b18c) 207 [9.82:1]


As you can see that anywhere between 188 and 207 psi is where you want to be.
Also the ITR valves are 1mm larger with will help flow.

 

[95teg]

hey guys, thanks alot for the help.. i was really lost and now im kinda getting the hang of this, reading around different places.. so in return to al that.. your saying YES to b16 pistons?... and possibly YES to ITR IM? but the GSR sounds alot more, for what im looking for (yeah that sounds confusing, im just gonna stick with the GSR ).. and baldy maybe you could help me out with that whole compression shiz.. ill im you or something about all that.

 

[Rand0m]

did you post this exact same thread over on CC? for some reason it just looks real familiar....sounds like a plan though, hope you get it all done

 

[95teg]

did you post this exact same thread over on CC? for some reason it just looks real familiar....sounds like a plan though, hope you get it all done

haha yeah, i did post it on there, but CC isnt that great for getting direct answers..lol i got the SEARCH!!.. and plus you get a lot more answered here, plus CI is the jam!..heh

 

[Baldy201]

Your really cant decide on pistons till you decide what cams you are going to use.
The ITR manifold will flow more than your GSR, it will give you better top end. And looking at your possible set up I would get the ITR manifold. The only problem with that is that the ITR manifold will not bolt up to the GSR head, but the Skunk2 IM for the GSR is basicly the same as the ITR manifold that will work with the GSR head.
The thing with the GSR IM is that it is ok for Mid and ok for high. Since you are building up an engine that will mostly be top end get the ITR(Skunk2) IM.

Remember get parts that will work together.

 

[95teg]

ahh icic... ok so the skunk 2 sounds fine.. back to the internals.. so if i get B16A pistons and run GSR cams, what would that do..lets just say for the time being...

 

[Eviloliv3]

ahh icic... ok so the skunk 2 sounds fine.. back to the internals.. so if i get B16A pistons and run GSR cams, what would that do..lets just say for the time being...

if you are going to build it, go aftermarket cams. something like Skunk2 Stage 2s..... then again, i havent really researched VTEC cams cause i dont have a VTEC head. ill let Baldy take the rest of this one... ill just watch

 

[95teg]

heh, one thing is for sure.. you know more about them then i do! ...alrighty we'll both watch at see

 

[dc2nr]

probally not what ur looking for

but i like the wiseco pistons (best in the market imo)
get whatever compression and size u want
eagle rods
arp studs
, then u can get skunk 2 cams (another personal preference)
and valves, springs n retainers (skunk2, but thats what i like, i think they make more hp but get what u want)

last time i checked that ran me 1400 shipped (minus cams) 2100 ish with cams, maybe wicked cams also.

 

[95teg]

ok right now since budget is a little slim, im gonna think about just throwing in some skunk2 stage 2 cams, and a skunk2 IM...what do you think about that?

 

[KaosTheory]

dude, go ITR for every thing,and please dont spray, turbo it or something, spray will eventually hurt you in the end(rings) trust me it happend to my old B-17, unless you plan on rebuilding it every couple of years, and if you do spray, get a zex, its state of the art, and only engages at full throttle.

 

[KaosTheory]

ok right now since budget is a little slim, im gonna think about just throwing in some skunk2 stage 2 cams, and a skunk2 IM...what do you think about that?

skunk 2 is a awsome brand but if you havent upgraded you intake manifold, then that should be first, that alon will give you 10-15 hp