ALL MOTOR? Reliable? Were you at TegSox???

CHILD

all day all JDM
^^that wouldn't make it reliable....all that's doing is shortening engine life.

short engine life = reliable......no sir :)
 

TegSox

Super Duper Moderator
So as long as you make it to the store and back, kicking your car's ass the whole way, then it's a reliable car? If that's your definition of reliable.... :???:
My definition of reliable is building an engine package, wether it be boost or NA, and have it last at least 50K miles, driving it as you normally would drive any car. Mostly normal, sane driving....with a little fun sprinkled in. Maybe rip it to redline a couple times a month, dance with the occasional car on the highway, and for guys like us, a couple of trips a year to the track.

Short engine life doesn't equal reliable to me, hoping my car is still running at the end of the week isn't a reliable car.
 

teggyls

STREET SAMURAI
Ya I Fully Agree Havin A Car That Might Die Sooner Then Later Isnt Relaible I Want A Car That Will Last Me A While Not Just A Few Months Of Drivin I Want It To Last Me A Few Yrs Even Tho You Cant Expect A High Po Motor To Last Forever You Gotta Expect It To Last A Lil While While I Mean Ur Buildin It Up Stronger Then Stock So It Should Last But Hey Wit The Way Some Of Us Drive It Aint Gonna Last Forever Sorry If Im Babblen I Keep Gettin Interupted Lol
 

96GSR

New Member
lets say i got about 6 to 8 g's to spend on internal motor work. what internal parts would i go with if i was planing on going all motor? and which parts if i was planning on boosting later? i would like to build the motor and boost later... and also i want to run off of pump gas like 91 and maybe 93... my cousin has a 96 z28 camaro that he just spend about $ 9,000 dollors on internal motor work like making his stock 350 into a 383 stroker and a custom cam and big ass camshaft and just other custom parts...he is going to be putting out about 500 hp and about 550 tq..but to the wheels it will be about 440 rwhp and about 460 to 480 rwtq...oh and his car is NA.. so what would be the best internals to go with...toda,jun,skunk,buddyclub,spoon,crower,arias etc....???? also does anyone know and good shops in nor-cal that does good motor work on honda/acura's and a good tuner in nor-cal??
 


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boosted_integ

New Member
if you boost your going to make a lot more power than all motor........... don't get me wrong all motor is bad ass..... but nothing pulls as good as a turbo ....... but you said you wanted to build up and get 250-300 horsepower then turbo it?????????????????? when your building an all motor car you want high compression when your going turbo route you want low compression so you have to make up your mind on what you want
 

TegSox

Super Duper Moderator
There is no best part, only the part that works best for your particular engine package and HP goal. There's so many variables that we need answers to to even begin to point you in the right direction.
-How much HP are you looking to make?
Depending on that answer will determine which camshaft you should buy, which in turn will determine if you need new valvesprings (and which ones). And in turn, depending on which cam set you pick will determine which piston set to buy that will give you the correct compression to complement the cams.
-Where do you want to concentrate buiding power along the rpm range?
This will determine what size I/H/C/E system to get. It also affects your cam desicion.
That's just scratching the surface....

I'm not going to do the homework for you and spoon feed you exactly which parts to buy, but I'll help educate you to determine for yourself how to pick which parts to buy to meet your HP goal.
 

96GSR

New Member
TegSox said:
There is no best part, only the part that works best for your particular engine package and HP goal. There's so many variables that we need answers to to even begin to point you in the right direction.
-How much HP are you looking to make?
Depending on that answer will determine which camshaft you should buy, which in turn will determine if you need new valvesprings (and which ones). And in turn, depending on which cam set you pick will determine which piston set to buy that will give you the correct compression to complement the cams.
-Where do you want to concentrate buiding power along the rpm range?
This will determine what size I/H/C/E system to get. It also affects your cam desicion.
That's just scratching the surface....

I'm not going to do the homework for you and spoon feed you exactly which parts to buy, but I'll help educate you to determine for yourself how to pick which parts to buy to meet your HP goal.

i want to go turbo and make about 350 to 400 hp. tegsox is there a book or a internet site where i can learn about all the above..that your talking about? the only site i know is howstuffworks..and i have read that site from top to bottom! so do you know a book or something which i can educate my self with so i can make my decisions on which parts to go with? but for now can you educate me on a idea of what parts i should get? oh and if im going to be drag racing where would i most likely need the power? i mean like whats the difference in have power in different rpm ranges? i know it's like getting max hp and tq at lets say 7k rpms. what rpm range would you want to make max power at?
 


TegSox

Super Duper Moderator
Like I said before, I don't know alot about FI, but I know some general info.
-You want cams that have little to no overlap, short duration and have high lift. There are turbo specific cams that accomplish this.
-You don't want too high of compression, there are turbo specific pistons that accomplish lowering compression.
-You want as large as possible of an exhaust system, 3 inch is the most popular size for a boosted car.

A site that has tons of accurate info is www.team-integra.net
When you sign up there, start off by reading the articles. They will answer all of your questions. Then, if you still have more specific questions go ahead and post, but search first. Any question that is posted over there that has already been answered gets locked immediatley. There are an army of moderators who strictly enforce site rules, there's no off topic forum, and no non-Integra questions allowed.

Between there and the boost guys on here, you'll find out everything you want to know.
 

96GSR

New Member
thanks tegsox! ya im a member of team-integra.net...but everytime i start a topic about something that i didnt find when i searched..i get that topic locked most of the time! or i have some dumbass say "use the search button" and i say i already did you fucken retard but i didnt find anything..becuase if i did i would'nt have posted...and then i get banned by the moderator for cursing...i got banned for 6 hours once!....but ya i will go ahead and read up on some of their articles when i get the chance and then ask some certain questions.
 

Matticus

New Member
If you really wanna do it right, sleeve the block, use Golden Eagle sleeves are rock solid, benson I hear about them moveing every once and a while. But, I have a benson sleeved LS block that hasnt been fired up yet. I would go with G.E. if I had it to do again. Depending on your tuner, I am going to be running 10.1: 1 compression and boosting that. Its not crazy high, but I want to be able to make 200whp without boost (this is just me you may or may not want to go this route). I will be using J.E. custom pistons, with eagle H beam rods, arp bolts everywhere. I have a G.E. sandwich kit to run LS/VTEC with a gsr head fully ported with a rev valve train. I may be getting the nastiest turbo cams blox offers but, Im not sure if I want to put this head on my daily driver gsr with some all motor blox cams and go with a roller set-up for my race car head. I would be able to rev the car up to 13k and make power all the way up but for 1600 bucks, iono. I still have a few other things to put money on right now. I will be having a custom exhaust and intake manifold made. Im pretty sure on fuel management I will be running a chipped ecu, until I see where AEM will really make a difference over chipped ecu I wont even bother with something so expensive. The shop that will be tuning my car has the fastest all motor hatch in the Houston Area. His AEM took a shit on him willing running at Houston Raceway Park the day of the NOPI qualifings. So he pulled out his trusty chipped ecu and has been running it ever since. Im also thinking about going another route, which would put a halt to this project for a little while. I may be out right selling the benson sleeved long block, currently it has cp pistons, eagle rods. The only thing out of the bottem end I really want are the rods LOL. If Im wanting different G.E. sleeves and JE pistons . . . . . Anyway, Ill quit rambling on about my set up. Maybe this will give you a little direction.

Also, Is this car a daily driver? If it is, maybe you should look into buying something else so you can have down time with your project before you start dumping money and time into your daily driver. This is what I did. http://www.clubintegra.com/board/showthread.php?t=4172
 

96GSR

New Member
ya i want my car to be a daily driver and for it to be very reliable. Matticus your setup sounds pretty nice..about how much money have you spent on you 450 hp civic?
 

96GSR

New Member
wouldnt hondadata be better than a chipped ecu and its still cheaper the aem computer...??
 

KaosTheory

DSMER
boosted_integ said:
if you boost your going to make a lot more power than all motor........... don't get me wrong all motor is bad ass..... but nothing pulls as good as a turbo ....... but you said you wanted to build up and get 250-300 horsepower then turbo it?????????????????? when your building an all motor car you want high compression when your going turbo route you want low compression so you have to make up your mind on what you want
exactly, i'd put around 9:1 comp.for a turbo setup,so your not going to make allotta power all motor,dont worry, your not the only one in this hole, im asking the same questions about turbo setup's.
 

KaosTheory

DSMER
96GSR said:
wouldnt hondadata be better than a chipped ecu and its still cheaper the aem computer...??
HONDATA, is a very expensive yet a very good product, i would get that anyday before the AEM EMS.
 

Matticus

New Member
96GSR said:
ya i want my car to be a daily driver and for it to be very reliable. Matticus your setup sounds pretty nice..about how much money have you spent on you 450 hp civic?
The car has never had 450whp in my posession. Thats what Im aiming for LOL.
As far as money tied up in it
1000 for sleeves
1000 for misc, work on bottem end (rods, pistons, crank polishing, etc.)
400 - gsr head
400 - valvetrain
500 - misc. things (golden eagle LS/VTEC kit, arp exhaust and intake manifold studs, cam gears, etc.)

I would say around 3500 if I had to put a dollar amount on it. The only things this motor needs to be fully built are cams. I am going to be getting new pistons (JE), but not before this car is ran. I want to get a swap together, I mainly need a gsr tranny at this point. Then comes building the turbo set up and fuel system. Im guessing another 4g's (tuning/tranny/everything) and the car will be on the road haulin ass. I told myself this project was going to cost around 10g's so if Im under that when the car gets rollin, I will be happy.

96GSR said:
wouldnt hondadata be better than a chipped ecu and its still cheaper the aem computer...??
depends on who you ask but, from everything that I have seen and read etc, I would just chip the ecu.
 
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