B18 Vtec questions

[metalhead77]

I recently acquired a 1994 Acura Integra LS. At some point, I would really like to start modding it, but don't have the money just yet. I have a few questions for the 'Teg experts on this site. 1. Swapping in a B18 Vtec, can I keep the same drivetrain? 2. I've heard that all you need for Vtec is the ECU and cams. Is this true? Any answers I get will be helpful. Thanks.

 

[BrokenTalon27]

I recently acquired a 1994 Acura Integra LS. At some point, I would really like to start modding it, but don't have the money just yet. I have a few questions for the 'Teg experts on this site. 1. Swapping in a B18 Vtec, can I keep the same drivetrain? 2. I've heard that all you need for Vtec is the ECU and cams. Is this true? Any answers I get will be helpful. Thanks.

That is absolutely false. You do need the proper ECU, but the entire head is different, not just the cams.
You need to research LSVtec. It's a topic that has hundreds of threads on this site and others.
You can use the same trans and axles.

 

[mirrorimg]

If you swap an entire Vtec engine, a B18C1, B18C5 or B16A(1?), it will bolt right up you just need to wire it properly and get a Vtec ECU.

If you swap in a different transmission, you will need new axles.

As Paden said, you want to do an LS/Vtec swap, there is a bit more for you to worry about. Go to the Motor and Drivetrain forum, and check HERE

 

[suspendedHatch]

First of all, doing a VTEC swap on a long-geared non-VTEC trans is flushing your money down the toilet. What's the point? Given the choice, I'd take the VTEC trans and the non-VTEC engine. Gearing is everything on a Honda.

Secondly, LS/VTEC is highly overrated. It's just a bad idea overall. Most people do it thinking it's a cheap way to get VTEC. What you end up with is a compromised engine, a long geared tranny, and a block that still has the LS's redline but now you're using a VTEC ECU that allows you the higher redline. Recipe for disaster. Recipe for disappointment.

You're much better off just getting a complete GSR swap. Or better yet, get a GSR or B16 transmission for your LS motor and then turbo the LS. In fact, the latter suggestion makes more sense each time I suggest it. VTEC is great and all but it's not the end-all for making power on a Honda. VTEC broadens the power band but you know what else... so does a turbo.

I own a stock GSR with a Type R trans cuz I'm becoming and old family man and that's what I'm into now. But if it was ten years ago, I'd have a B16 or GSR or Type R trans on an LS turbo with turbo app cams and cam gears tuned on a dyno. You will laugh at VTEC all day and all night. Take that from a GSR owner.

I personally don't place any trust in a Honda motor that's been opened up.I don't even trust myself to get it right. I stick with low mile JDM motors that may cost a little more upfront, but they last forever. Everyone who takes the cheap way ends up with no money and no motor. These motors have to be done exactly by the book. Everything torqued to spec, new head bolts, torqued in steps, resurfaced surfaces etc etc. Honda rice mechanics cut corners like nobody's business. Race shops treat them just like any other motor thinking they know everything but other motors are much more forgiving. (Chalk it up to Hondas tight tolerances. It doesn't reflect negatively on the brand.) Also, race shops hold disdain for the Honda crowd. So they give you a motor, you run it a few times, and then it starts running funny, and then it rattles itself apart.

That's LS/VTEC for you. Do a poll here and see how many people have LS/VTEC's.

 

[Samurai_Blue]

finially someone who undestands why i think ls vtec is dumb

 

[pluckt007]

wow. that was amazing. never really thought of the lsvtec that way. hmm....

 

[metalhead77]

Well, here's a new question. If I plan on putting new cams in the car anyways, is it really worth swapping in a vtec b18 or getting the vtec system? I was also planning on getting a piggyback, possibly standalone ECU. I have a '94 LS that I plan on keeping as a daily driver, and I want to make 250 to 300 bhp, without a turbo. I know it's possible without going full race on the engine, I've seen it done. And I was planning on getting new gearing or a new tranny as it was. So, the questions stands, should I worry about the vtec, or just say screw it and work on the engine as is? I know they have tight tolerances and are fairly good little engines for producing power. As with last time, any answers would be helpful

 

[TheSylntChamber]

Secondly, LS/VTEC is highly overrated. It's just a bad idea overall. Most people do it thinking it's a cheap way to get VTEC. What you end up with is a compromised engine, a long geared tranny, and a block that still has the LS's redline but now you're using a VTEC ECU that allows you the higher redline. Recipe for disaster. Recipe for disappointment.

There are more than one way to build a LS/Vtec, so categorizing them all as a bad idea makes no sense. If you are building a LS/Vtec and go with say a GSR crank you are not keeping the same specs as your LS, there fore you aren't "keeping the ls redline".

 

[mirrorimg]

There are more than one way to build a LS/Vtec, so categorizing them all as a bad idea makes no sense. If you are building a LS/Vtec and go with say a GSR crank you are not keeping the same specs as your LS, there fore you aren't "keeping the ls redline".

The restriction in a non-VTEC block is the Rod bolts, not the crank. The rod bolts cannot handle the strain of the higher RPM that VTEC blocks can, and will stretch and snap. They need to be upgraded to be able to reach the true redline. This means a lot more effort than many people associate the "swap" with. And a bit more money and time to pull the block out, change the rod bolts, and do the maintenance you are SUPPOSED to do when the block is out.

I.E. resurface the flywheel, replace the crank and rod bearings/thrust washers, the oil pump, etc.