Bad Primary O2 sensor...

96LSteg

Jemel
Ok so today as I was taking off at a red light, my teg climbed to 3k and then began to bog. I had to ride every gear below 3k all the way home. For the last 2hrs I have been reading what can cause this problem, and so far Ive came to the conclusion that it could be my primary o2 sensor. Im leaning toward this because for one, the plug is all chewed up (was like that when I got the car) and 2. I'm sure it hasn't been replaced at all and my teg has like 180XXX on it...If anyone else knows what could cause a problem like this feel free to chime in...
 

96LSteg

Jemel
some more background:

Im throwing CEL code 14: for my IACV being unplugged (because when its plugged in my car idles at 3k)
and CEL code 65: because the PO cut out the cat and the o2 sensor for it.

I called my buddy who has an import shop and he said that because I'm not throwing a code for the primary o2 that he doesn't think thats it. He said my ecu could be going into limp mode because I'm throwing 2 codes. But I can't eliminate either of the codes at the moment because i don't have a cat/o2 sensor and I don't know why my IACV is making my car idle so high...
 

Muckman

Not a M0derator
If the engine idles fine with the IACV unplugged then just make a block off plate for it. Then you can keep it the IACV plugged in and ECU happy but it wont do anything :)

Reset the ECU and hopefully eliminating one of the errors will fix the supposed limp mode.

And as for the secondary O2 - you can run a spark plug defouler to keep the O2 from throwing a fit on a test pipe.
 


Muckman

Not a M0derator
Thanks. Im glad to help but I cant take the credit. The defouler trick's been around for decades. Let me know how it works out.
 

96LSteg

Jemel
Ok so Ive rules out my o2 sensors as they are still good. Ive done some driving today to try figure out the problem and here is what I got:

In first gear the car travels fine throughout the RPM range
2nd gear sputters at 3k but if I floor it, it will return to normal operation
same for 3rd, 4th, and 5th.

I replaced my spark plug cables because they were pretty worn and I though maybe I was losing spark due to that. Now Im leaning towards it being a fuel issue (maybe dirty fuel injectors or me needing a new fuel filter). I will clean the injectors and see what that does.
 


Muckman

Not a M0derator
My money is on ignition. When was the last time you replaced the plugs? Cap & Rotor?
 

96LSteg

Jemel
Plugs were replaced a while ago...The car sat for a long time. To my knowledge the cap and rotor haven't been replaced. Not by me anyway. I looked inside my distributer and there is no rust or corrosion. Could the cap and rotor still be bad?
 

Muckman

Not a M0derator
Look at the contact points on the cap and then the rotor. If they look questionable, replace them. Maybe its time to try fresh plugs. Also try the oem plug wires. Ive never had good luck with aftermarket replacement ignition parts.
 

96LSteg

Jemel
I got NGK plug wires today. Thought they were the recommended brand for Honda/Acura. I will replace the plugs and check the cap and rotor again and update.
 

Muckman

Not a M0derator
The wires are good but the connectors sometimes dont snap on snuggly like OEM does. Plus the stupid thick wires dont even fit in the wire holders which can cause EF interference if they cross each other. I run new OEM plug wires on my car.

Just try the old OEM ones if you still have them. I always keep OEM wires around for testing.
 

96LSteg

Jemel
They look pretty good, although the car sat for a year before driving they are at least a year old if not more not many miles on them. Im using the iridium NGKs with a .040 gap because I have a b18a1 and its recommended gap is .039-.043 i believe, so I gapped my plugs in-between those numbers.
 
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