FrmGMC2ACURA
New Member
So bought a 98 ls auto 4dr 4 days ago. Got a few ?s for the veteran Honda/acura enthusiasts. I'm coming over from American muscle. Sols my 2 Dr 01 GMC Jimmy sls 4x4 to get my acura.
Brand new to acuras/hondas
- Thread starter FrmGMC2ACURA
- Start date
FrmGMC2ACURA
New Member
That was my daily. Haha. Me n my buddy got a 93 s10 Tahoe with a 383 stroker turbo 350 trans 3:73 gears. Muscle.
OK. This integra I can fire and half time no probs. Sometimes sputters out directly. Got a b18b1 150600 miles. Remained head around 150000 along with water pump/timing. Need to know where to start looking for my issue.
Also what's the average rpm for the shifts in the automatic? Any other offerable advice is warmly welcomed. Like I say I'm a noob to the jap cars....
FrmGMC2ACURA
New Member
U drop a hopped up Chevy 350 in anything and it becomes muscle. My friend you hear muscle and think classic Americana. Vettes camaros chargers the like. Without the power plant the body just looks good.
So my reasoning behind joining was to learn about these tuners. Not get laughed at for my classification of muscle.
I just don't know where to start on these things. Chevy firing and dieing I would instantly expect a weak fuel pump. Though I'm not getting those vibes off this integra.
Thoughts??
So my reasoning behind joining was to learn about these tuners. Not get laughed at for my classification of muscle.
I just don't know where to start on these things. Chevy firing and dieing I would instantly expect a weak fuel pump. Though I'm not getting those vibes off this integra.
Thoughts??
94RS
No fucks given.
We aren't picking on you specifically about that muscle thing, we're just dicks to everyone :mrgreen:
As for the no start:
- can you hear the pump prime?
- Do you know the condition of the fuel filter?
- Distributor could possibly be on its way out.
- Condition of the plugs/wires?
As for the no start:
- can you hear the pump prime?
- Do you know the condition of the fuel filter?
- Distributor could possibly be on its way out.
- Condition of the plugs/wires?
FrmGMC2ACURA
New Member
Good to know. Ha.
OK. It starts. Sometimes then dies. But very very minimal pressure on throttle gets it OK. After about 30 seconds it'll idle fine. Tonight just for kicks I left the heater on. Every crank it fired and stayed on. With 1 time it was idling 500 or a Lil less real choppy. Tapped throttle cleared up.
The car has a new f/f new plugs/wires new cap/rotor.
I was told tonight I may need to adjust the idle screw ⁉ (no clue where thatd be)
And yes. Pumps priming.
Also I noticed the fuel tank is holding vapor pressure tonight at refueling...
R13
The other asshole
Maybe I just have different standards for muscle. I mean you can build a truck or a van or something like that to do what a muscle car does but to me it's just a hot-rodded pig.
I'm not hating though, I had an old 70s f100 that was a very mild street rod build and it was pretty fun, not fast or impressive in any way but the noise and the stinkbug stance was pretty funny. :lol
FrmGMC2ACURA
New Member
R13 u got any Intel on my predicament?
94RS
No fucks given.
Article for adjusting the idle.
http://www.team-integra.net/forum/blogs/styleteg/57-adjusting-your-idle-speed-gen3.html?nocache=1448254675580
http://www.team-integra.net/forum/blogs/styleteg/57-adjusting-your-idle-speed-gen3.html?nocache=1448254675580
FrmGMC2ACURA
New Member
Takes me to their homepage
94RS
No fucks given.
As your integra gets older, and more mods are done to it your idle may begin to stray from the factory recommendation. This happens to many cars as they get older, and adjusting the idle is often part of regular maintenance intervals. Luckily, you don't need to pay someone to adjust your idle because you can easily do it yourself!
The idle is adjusted by a screw on the throttle body, but it requires a few steps to adjust the idle properly.
First warm up your car to its normal operating temperature, at this point it should be idling at its normal spot. Pop your hood and located the idle adjustment screw.
In this picture the screw is highlighted in yellow and I am pointing to it. This is on the side of the throttle body, right above where the air intake tube connects.
If your idle has never been adjusted, it is possible that the screw will be covered up with some light rubber substance from the factory. Simply scrape it out with a thin screwdriver or a small knife. Before you start adjusting that screw, you need to disconnect the Idle Air Adjustment valve (IAC). The idle air adjustment valve lets in more air depending on what the sensors tell it, in order to help maintain a constant idle and prevent possible stalling. We want to disconnect it so that we can adjust the idle itself with out any interference.
The valve is located behind the throttle body, facing the firewall.This is a picture taking looking directly down on the top of the intake manifold
There is an electronic connector on the bottom of the IAC valve, that you need to disconnect. While the car is running, Simply push down on the tab, and pull the connector downward and off of the valve. Be careful not to touch anything in the engine bay that could be hot, you could burn yourself.
At this point the idle should drop at least 100rpm. If you don't notice a difference in idle, you may have a bad IAC and should replace it.
Once the IAC has been disconnected you can turn the screw to adjust the idle. Turning the screw towards the firewall, or loosening the screw, will increase the idle speed. Turning the screw away from the firewall, or tightening the screw, will decrease the idle.
You want the idle to sit right at 650rpm on the tach. Right between the 600 and 700 marks shown below.
One you have achieved this, turn off the engine. Plug the IAC clip back in, and reset the ECU.
After you have let your ECU adapt, you should idle steady at 750 rpm +/- 50 when warm.
