Build motor question?

mendoza

New Member
found this on a local shop website and i wanted to know how much it would cost & power it would make? Not that im gonna mod an engine that much and put it in my car, just to know.


Products:
- 1995 GSR (B18C1) block & crank
- Block machined .5mm over (to 81.5mm)
- CP 9:1 pistons with ceramic coated domes and dry film lubricant coated skirts
- Eagle rods with 3/8" ARP bolts
- ARP head studs
- Moroso aluminum oil pan (5 quart with sump kickout and trap door)
- ITR head and cams Honda rod and main bearings
- Honda headgasket
- ITR oil and water pumps
- Endyn breather tank system
- New ITR trans with factory LSD
- Clutchmaster Stage 3 clutch
- RevHard cast manifold custom ceramic coating inside and out
- RevHard charge pipes
- Turbonetics T3/T4 (custom compressor & wheel by Speed Industry)
- Spearco intercooler
- Greddy Type-S BOV
- Holley 255lph forced induction fuel pump
- TiAl 38mm wastegate
- Hondata IM gasket
- Hondata S300 engine management
- RC 750CC Saturated fuel injectors
- OEM aftermarket CV axles
- Autometer gauges - oil temperature, EGT, boost/vac, fuel pressure
- AEM wideband gauge
- AEM fuel rail
- AEM adjustable FPR
- Thermal R&D 3" stainless polished exhaust
- Custom Speed Industry 3" stainless downpipe with wastegate recirculation
- Custom Speed Industry 3" stainless test pipe
- K&N air filter
- Custom Speed Industry 3" cold air intake
- Custom Speed Industry radiator brackets
- FAL dual high flow fans
- Taylor Vertex aluminum remote battery box (behind passenger seat)
- CF hood
- Z10 engineering radius arm traction bars
- Magnecore competition wires
- Kosei K1 wheels for strip use
- BFG drag radials for strip use
- Falken Ziex tires for street use
- JDM valve cover
- Samco silicone radiator hoses
- Energy Suspension shifter bushings
- Energy Suspension motor and transmission mounts
- Recaro Speed seats
- Autopower Roll bar
 
Last edited:

mjones73

New Member
If the block isn't sleeved, you're limited to what the block can handle, with a good tune it would probably be 350-400hp max.

I'd guess that build would be $5000 minimum, probably more...
 

DaddyBuiltRacing

Resident Asshole
I bet you there is less then 2k dollars in that complete engine. Not the turbo kit, but the actual motor its self. The most expensive part of the motors setup is the CP's which are 500 bucks, eagles are 300, and its not sleeved.


- Block machined .5mm over (to 81.5mm)- $100
- CP 9:1 pistons with ceramic coated domes and dry film lubricant coated skirts - $500
- Eagle rods with 3/8" ARP bolts - $300
- ARP head studs - $130
- Moroso aluminum oil pan (5 quart with sump kickout and trap door) -$200
- ITR head and cams Honda rod and main bearings-$ 500 for head, $150 for bearings
- Honda headgasket -$85
- ITR oil and water pumps - $100 for oil pump, $30 for water pump

Right around 2k...
 

AlexD

J13 sooo mad
thenoxus1 said:
Forget internals, labor, easily nets 8K into a block with labor.
Click to expand...
I wouldnt think 8k is into the block.. not even 8k

block assembly isnt really expensive, with machine work youre looking at $500, $800 for forged internals

$200 for bearings and headstuds, $250 for a new water and oil pump.
 

AlexD

J13 sooo mad
mendoza said:
found this on a local shop website and i wanted to know how much it would cost & power it would make? Not that im gonna mod an engine that much and put it in my car, just to know.


Products:
- 1995 GSR (B18C1) block & crank
- Block machined .5mm over (to 81.5mm)
- CP 9:1 pistons with ceramic coated domes and dry film lubricant coated skirts
- Eagle rods with 3/8" ARP bolts
- ARP head studs
- Moroso aluminum oil pan (5 quart with sump kickout and trap door) -funny they need a 5quart aluminum sumped oil pan, yet theyre using a drag manifold of all types for this build
- ITR head and cams Honda rod and main bearings
- Honda headgasket
- ITR oil and water pumps - dont be fooled, itr,gsr,ls, oil pumps are all the same. I think 96 and older pumps are slighly different
- Endyn breather tank system
- New ITR trans with factory LSD
- Clutchmaster Stage 3 clutch
- RevHard cast manifold custom ceramic coating inside and out cast manifold, and they spend all their money on their oil pan and a sump?
- RevHard charge pipes
- Turbonetics T3/T4 (custom compressor & wheel by Speed Industry)
- Spearco intercooler
- Greddy Type-S BOV
- Holley 255lph forced induction fuel pump forced induction fuel pump!??! no way
- TiAl 38mm wastegate
- Hondata IM gasket
- Hondata S300 engine management
- RC 750CC Saturated fuel injectors
- OEM aftermarket CV axles
- Autometer gauges - oil temperature, EGT, boost/vac, fuel pressure
- AEM wideband gauge
- AEM fuel rail
- AEM adjustable FPR not even needed :facepalm:
- Thermal R&D 3" stainless polished exhaust
- Custom Speed Industry 3" stainless downpipe with wastegate recirculation
- Custom Speed Industry 3" stainless test pipe
- K&N air filter
- Custom Speed Industry 3" cold air intake cold air intake on a turbo setup huh?
- Custom Speed Industry radiator brackets custom radiator brackets are about as cool as blue wire loom... :roll:
- FAL dual high flow fans
- Taylor Vertex aluminum remote battery box (behind passenger seat) if mounted incorrectly, (especially behind a seat), you wont be able to race this shit anywhere, not to mention you need a kill switch on the outside of the car now that the battery is relocated
- CF hood
- Z10 engineering radius arm traction bars
- Magnecore competition wires LOL HARD
- Kosei K1 wheels for strip use
- BFG drag radials for strip use
- Falken Ziex tires for street use
- JDM valve cover
- Samco silicone radiator hoses
- Energy Suspension shifter bushings
- Energy Suspension motor and transmission mounts
- Recaro Speed seats
- Autopower Roll bar
Click to expand...

my opinion is whoever put this setup together are morons, clearly this shit is mix and matched and the owner or builder pieced this together without fully understanding what kind of budget, or build they were trying to do.

This is why when building a car, you should always sit down, figure out a budget and goal for your car, not just powerwise, but what you plan on doing with the car drivingwise.

a 5quart aluminum oil pan thats sumped isnt even needed and is ridiculously expensive, an aem fuel pressure regulator isnt even worth the money for a build of this caliber. The greddy type S BOV wont even be worth shit on high boost, and magnacore competition wires dont mean shit. Alot of this stuff couldve been put towards better things imo.

The way I see it, the limiting point of this build are the injectors and the clutch. The injectors will tell you how much power this setup is capable of making when maxing out the turbo which isnt even listed (just the housing type, t3/t4 which tells us absolutely nothing (because I thought a t4 was gonna fit on a drag cast manifold :roll:). I forget what the pump gas numbers are, but on E85 good luck touching even 400whp. Im not sure what the clutch is rated to, but on a stage 3 on average, I dont see it holding more than 350ft lbs of tq.

That manifold is absolutely horrid if you want to make big power efficiently. With a larger turbocharger on that youll probably see horrible backpressure because of the short runners, and also, you probably cant even fit a big turbo on there without it hitting the block.

Id say this setup is capable of making 350-400whp efficiently, but for the money thats into it that amount of power is a complete joke. I think that some of the money into this build is in the wrong spots, but thats just me.
 
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