Car horn/alarm went off for 30 seconds then stopped.

K3Ntegra

Member
Over the past year and half, I've had to manually turn the key lock on the driver's side to keep the door fully shut.

If it's not fully shut, it can be opened with a door opener causing the car alarm to go off, until I press the unlock button on the remote.

Starting 2 months ago when I started working my brakes, I had to change the car batter for the 3rd time in 6 years / 50,000 miles.

I noticed the window would no longer go all the way down its own, when I press the button fully down.


1,500+ miles after changing the battery and ignition distributor, the problem of the alarm going off its own has arisen.

Also when I went to my car and pressed lock on the key remote, I noticed a locking come from the trunk area. I went ahead and replaced the remote battery. I noticed that the brand new one had dimples on it. I'll post a picture.

After googling this current problem of the alarm going off on its own, it seems there are 2 possible culprits:

1.) the door sensors
2.) corroded lower horn due to winter weather. It cost a person $500 Canadian to fix

When I take the car to the mechanic, may someone please suggest the proper troubleshooting steps I should recommend to them?

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K3Ntegra

Member
Alarm went off again today and went away after 20 seconds.

Mechanic said it is likely caused by a corroded module, and that the cheapest option take 1 hour ($100) to disable the alarm altogether. If anyone has a cheaper option, besides disconnecting the battery, it would be appreciated.

I've heard of a hood latch trick, but I can't find complete steps on it.
 

Noneed2Hate

Active Member
K3Ntegra said:
Alarm went off again today and went away after 20 seconds.

Mechanic said it is likely caused by a corroded module, and that the cheapest option take 1 hour ($100) to disable the alarm altogether. If anyone has a cheaper option, besides disconnecting the battery, it would be appreciated.

I've heard of a hood latch trick, but I can't find complete steps on it.
Click to expand...
I'm pretty sure there is a just a fuse that you can pull for the horn.... literally a 5 minutes "fix"

check the fuse box by the battery in your bay, or the one directly underneath your steering wheel. There should be a layout of what fuse is what on the covers
 

Samurai_Blue

Yolo Whippin'
is it a factory or after market alarm? You left that BIG piece of information out
 


K3Ntegra

Member
Most likely a factory alarm.

If I lock the car with the remote, and then unlock the car through the key hole, a horn goes off every second, and I can't start the car until I press unlock on the remote.
 

phatintegra

Banned
Try reprograming the remote transmitter.

For 1994-1996 Programming this alarm is 4 simple steps:

1. Turn the Ignition switch to ON (II)
2. Make sure you press and hold down the Valet disarm button located underneath to the left of your steering wheel. After around 5-10 seconds the alarm led on the upper steering column will begin to flash. This means that you alarm is in programming mode, continue to hold the valet alarm button. Here is a picture of the button incase you are having trouble finding it.
3. Press the top button of your alarm transmitter. It is the one that reads “Silent, Panic”. Once this is complete your parking lights should flash. My horn beeped twice but that does not always happen.
4. Release the Valet disarm button to exit programming mode. The new remote should now work for your car. * For 1997-2001 Programming the alarm transmitter for the 97-01 Integra’s is a bit more tricky then the 94-96. Steps one through six must be completed within 4 seconds of the previous step to keep the system from exiting the programming mode.

1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II)
2. Press the “LOCK” or “UNLOCK” button on the transmitter.
3. Turn the Ignition switch to LOCK (0)
4. Repeat steps 1,2 and 3 two more continuous times. All must be done quickly to prevent the system from leaving programming mode.
5. After completing that process, again turn the ignition switch to ON (II)
6. Press either the “LOCK” or “UNLOCK” button on the transmitter. The power door locks should cycle to confirm that the system is ready to program. If they do not cycle continue steps 1-6 until they do.
7. You have 10 seconds to press the “LOCK” or “UNLOCK” button on the transmitter. If done correctly the door locks will cycle again signaling the new transmitter is programmed to the car.
8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) and your new transmitter is ready to go.
 
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K3Ntegra

Member
Sorry for coming off as rude, but I'd like to disable the alarm permanently. Someone suggested holding the "unlock button" on the remote for a minute.

The dealership stated $150 to disconnect it or 'diagnose' it.
 

K3Ntegra

Member
I went ahead an paid the dealership $135 to diagnose the problem.

They stated the hood latch was the main problem, and that it's latch assembly and actuator would need to be replaced. They also mentioned something else about fixing the electrical wiring to the trunk latch, it's not written on the receipt. They said it would cost $686. If I do get it fixed, I'll have to buy used parts and hire a Craigslist mechanic/electrician.

The dealership also stated that trailing arm bushing was worn out or split, and that would cost $760 + $120 alignment. My mechanic said I shouldn't worry about fixing this.

Disabling the alarm is not an option since the immobilizer linked to the ECU won't let the car start without it.

Affordable/temporary solution is to leave the car unlocked or disconnect the battery.
 
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Ryan659

Active Member
760 for the trailing arm bushing is a rip off. You can do it yourself by taking of the rear tire and unbolting a few things.

It's a little bit more complicated than that but not by a whole much ;)

They quoted you so high for it because they want you to replace the whole arm, when that's just not necessary. You can buy the bushing and just press it in. It requires a special tool that is sold online but i have one that I used once I can sell you for cheaper than online.
 

Samurai_Blue

Yolo Whippin'
You really just need a big socket and a hammer to do the trailing arms. That's how I did mine. Energy bushings make it easy. You just burn out everything.
 

jkindle

New Member
good car audio shops deal with stock alarms and aftermarket alarms all the time, I would go and ask them what they would recommend
 
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