Car won't turn on. Possibly damaged distributor ignition coil?

K3Ntegra

Member
My car tries to turn on (similar to someone coughing repeatedly), when I turn the key clockwise and hold it at that position, even after 15 seconds. I hear the repetitive ignition sound, but the car can’t come on and stay on.

Earlier I was in the process of trying to replace the distributor rotor, cap, spark wires and plugs.
Once I disconnected the distributor from my vehicle, I took it straight to a mechanic to have the rotor Philip’s head screw removed, free of charge.

Distributor before I took it to the mechanic: Image 1
Distributor after taking it to the mechanic: Image 2

As one may see in Image 2, the mechanic removed the secondary black plastic casing (or cap) and I forgot to take it back from him. To remove the screw, he used a black hammer to fasten the screw driver to screw, possibly damaging the distributor.

Before I removed the distributor from the vehicle, to take it to the mechanic, I noticed what looked like a melting yellow candle wax, as showing in Image 2, but here is another image, with a much more up close shot: Image 3.

After going to the mechanic and having the screw removed, I went to Home Depot to buy an Everbilt 10-32 x ½ in brass, which matched the rotor screw. Although it was 1mm longer, it fit perfectly in the distributor. I also used loctite. I used a new distributor rotor (link) and cap.

From here I did things one step at time. I connected the distributor cap and the old spark wire (with old spark plugs), the car couldn’t ‘turn on’. As mentioned before, there was black plastic piece, between the rotor and the main distributor, and I accidently left it at the mechanics shop.

I tried the new spark plug, same thing. I replaced all 4 old spark wire plug with brand new ones, same thing. I also tried the old distributor cap, same thing. The old distributor rotor, has black oil tar on the terminal section, so I didn’t try it.

Right now it seems by best course of action, would be to go the car mechanic and have them replace it.

Any suggestions as to how I can overcome this problem would be appreciated.
 

94RS

No fucks given.
Ignition timing. Loosen the three bolts holding the dizzy on and it's able to rotate. The mounting holes are much wider than the bolts for this reason.

I just had to replace the dizzy on my car a few weeks ago.I ended up putting it on at just the slightest wrong angle and it ran like shit (no power) until about 3200rpm. Advanced the timing a little bit and it runs fine.

This was a brand new (not reman) CarQuest dizzy btw.
 


K3Ntegra

Member
Ignition timing. Loosen the three bolts holding the dizzy on and it's able to rotate. The mounting holes are much wider than the bolts for this reason.

I just had to replace the dizzy on my car a few weeks ago.I ended up putting it on at just the slightest wrong angle and it ran like s*** (no power) until about 3200rpm. Advanced the timing a little bit and it runs fine.

This was a brand new (not reman) CarQuest dizzy btw.

Ah, thanks. You described what took other websites, 1 full page talk about, in 1 easy to understand sentence.
 

Muckman

Not a M0derator
So you took it to a mechanic to replace the cap and rotor. Did it start and run perfectly fine before that? Or was that why you took it to the mechanic in the first place?

Common error is to make sure the spark plug wires are on the distributor cap in the correct order.

 

K3Ntegra

Member
Yeah, I triple checked the 1→3→4→2 spark plug configuration.

I put the new dizzy rotor myself, with loctite, which was quite stupid of me.

Here is up close shot of the ignition coil + heatsink: Image 4.

Unfortunately I had to clip off half of the rotor, to access the ignition coil + heatsink: Image 5.

Does anyone know if the dizzy rotor would be usable in its current condition, if so, for how long?

Here's a picture of my my 49,000+ mile NGK PZF5RF spark plugs.

1st edit:

I placed the dizzy in the middle, with the top right screw loosely holding it in place. The car wouldn't turn on. I rechecked spark wires. I miplaced 1 in the "4th" wire position (top right). I corrected this and the car started.

I have the old distributor cap in place (after testing with new one). I'll try and see if the mechanic or a store like Advanced Auto Parts, will remove screw, and in return I'll buy a new rotor from them as thankful gesture. Also, is the plastic piece/casing between the rotor and main distributor platform, not important to have?

As one may see in the image, the Dizzy seems to be in more "advanced" position, instead of "retard".



Thanks for the assistance.

1st edit:
When the time comes, I'll try to use my soldering iron to remove the loctite screw.
 


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