distributor question
- Thread starter JDMda808
- Start date
da9 b20 beast
New Member
u could get a jumper harness to convert your ecu to obd1 without having to replace the entire harness...ull need the vtec dizzy by the way
BrokenTalon27
W.F.O
You will need the jumper harness, an OBD1 ECU(p28, p30, p72), and an OBD1 Vtec distributor. You'll also need to repin the harness so the distributor clips match the car or vice versa. You can also get jumpers for that as well from Rywire.
JDMda808
New Member
lol i think i was over thinking this. but i pretty much just had a brain fart haha. but what im going to do is buy jumper harness and ecu then my friends selling me a harness to convert the wires from obd0 to go into the obd1 dizzy. but one more question do i need a vtec dizzy cause the one i bought has one of the legs cut off and im 99.9999999999% sure that it use to be on a lsv. other wise why would it be cut. thanks for the input btw
jimmy_
DontTalkJustPoundGears
sorry to intrupt but im not trying to make a new thread i have a obd0 92 da9 ls that im converting to obd1 what type of distritributor would i need a non-vtec am i correct?? and would i be able to just get one off of a obd1 da9 same year and model?? and why would i need to buy a new 02 sensor is it because obd1 has two sensors for it??
BrokenTalon27
W.F.O
A 92 is OBD1 from the factory. Post a pic of you distributor and ECU. We can tell for sure if you do.
You need a Vtec distributor...I think we've answered this for you in another thread too.
djzachtyler
Looking for my next Teg..
that second pic is not the ECU... that is the seatbelt control module
you need to pull back the carpet just in front of that module and the ECU is going to be behind a kick plate under that carpet in the passenger floorpan.
Also that Vlave cover is not a V-Tec cover.. looks like a standard B18a1 cover which would indicate you may have an ODB0 car... the DIstributor looks like an ODB1 distributor as the coil point is not straight up and down like the ODB0 distributor... with that ODB1 distributor your timing is off a bit and probably set to be off.
If you want to go Vtec with that block do it, but you are oing to have to do what Talon & others ave said... you will need to upgrade ECU, IM, Distributor, harness to go LS/Vtec, then go get your car tuned to boot.
you need to pull back the carpet just in front of that module and the ECU is going to be behind a kick plate under that carpet in the passenger floorpan.
Also that Vlave cover is not a V-Tec cover.. looks like a standard B18a1 cover which would indicate you may have an ODB0 car... the DIstributor looks like an ODB1 distributor as the coil point is not straight up and down like the ODB0 distributor... with that ODB1 distributor your timing is off a bit and probably set to be off.
If you want to go Vtec with that block do it, but you are oing to have to do what Talon & others ave said... you will need to upgrade ECU, IM, Distributor, harness to go LS/Vtec, then go get your car tuned to boot.
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djzachtyler
Looking for my next Teg..
if you look at an odb0 and odb1 dizzy side by side the point is off by 5 minutes between the 2. the odb0 dizzy the point sits straight up & down ;like | whereas the ODB1 & 2 dizzy the pint connector sits retarded by 5 minutes like \
in my direct expeirience this puts timing off just enough to make the car run pretty rough & require additional adjustment of the mechanical timing to make it work right using a timing light & jumping the service port etc...
If you are using a Hondata ECU then idealy you want to only use a default basemap until you can go get your car tuned...
in my direct expeirience this puts timing off just enough to make the car run pretty rough & require additional adjustment of the mechanical timing to make it work right using a timing light & jumping the service port etc...
If you are using a Hondata ECU then idealy you want to only use a default basemap until you can go get your car tuned...
BrokenTalon27
W.F.O
That's because it's OBD1 like I've been saying the whole time.