turbteg-gsr
New Member
hey guys i found this on team integra i am not taking any credits for this as all credits go to SurferX on team integra... enjoy
One of the biggest problems we front-wheel drive cars have in putting power to the ground at the strip is wheel hop. Bouncing across the line waiting to get traction is the last thing you want to waste your time on when you're trying to pull good ET's.
Polyurethane Motor Mount Inserts
Probably the most effective upgrade you could do to your suspension for the price. What happens during acceleration is that the engine will flex and pull up on the suspension. These inserts will replace your stock rubber inserts to minimize this engine flexing. Supposedly you should also get a little bit more power to the wheels as torque is not wasted flexing the engine but I have yet to see a dyno to prove that.
You can get get these inserts from Energy Suspension or Prothane anywhere from $30-$50 depending what kit you buy and where you shop. Both kits differ in stiffness and which specific mounts they attach to. See below diagram for more information.
The Prothane kit is much stiffer than the Energy Suspension kit. The side effect of these are that engine vibrations are transferred to the cabin rather than being absorbed by the mounts. With the ES kit you'll mainly have vibration at idle and a slight noise increase. The Prothane kit offers both a "street" and "race" installation. the "street" installation is a bit stiffer than the ES kits and the "race" installation is super stiff and will translate to more vibration and more noise. If you're really hardcore you can combine both ES and Prothane kits for the ultimate in eliminating engine flex. If you do that it's recommended for a daily driver to use the softer ES rear mount insert and the Prothane "street" setup. Combining the Prothane rear insert and "race" setup with the ES kit may result in vibration close to those 25 cent "love master" beds you find at cheap hotel rooms. Hey maybe you could use that for something you never know.
NOTE: When installing polyurethane inserts, make sure to lubricate them with Wurth HHS2000 spray to or they will begin to squeak over time.
Z10 Radius Arms
If you're willing to pay ten times more than polyurethane kits, the ultimate in eliminating wheel hop would be using radius arms. Z10 makes a kit for Civics/Integras that will bolt right up to the cross-member and front tow hooks. This braces the suspension assembly and does not allow for any deflection when launching. You can also adjust the stiffness of the arms as well as adjust wheel caster.
Here's a picture of Z10's kit for the early generation Civic/CRX
The radius arms would be the best choice for eliminating wheel hop and improving launch ability. However if the Z10 kit is a little out of your price range, the cost effective poly kits still do a good job in helping to get you those low 2 second 60 foot times at the strip.
EDIT
i posted this in another thread... i found this website that explains more about wheel hop and what to do
One of the biggest problems we front-wheel drive cars have in putting power to the ground at the strip is wheel hop. Bouncing across the line waiting to get traction is the last thing you want to waste your time on when you're trying to pull good ET's.
Polyurethane Motor Mount Inserts
Probably the most effective upgrade you could do to your suspension for the price. What happens during acceleration is that the engine will flex and pull up on the suspension. These inserts will replace your stock rubber inserts to minimize this engine flexing. Supposedly you should also get a little bit more power to the wheels as torque is not wasted flexing the engine but I have yet to see a dyno to prove that.
You can get get these inserts from Energy Suspension or Prothane anywhere from $30-$50 depending what kit you buy and where you shop. Both kits differ in stiffness and which specific mounts they attach to. See below diagram for more information.
The Prothane kit is much stiffer than the Energy Suspension kit. The side effect of these are that engine vibrations are transferred to the cabin rather than being absorbed by the mounts. With the ES kit you'll mainly have vibration at idle and a slight noise increase. The Prothane kit offers both a "street" and "race" installation. the "street" installation is a bit stiffer than the ES kits and the "race" installation is super stiff and will translate to more vibration and more noise. If you're really hardcore you can combine both ES and Prothane kits for the ultimate in eliminating engine flex. If you do that it's recommended for a daily driver to use the softer ES rear mount insert and the Prothane "street" setup. Combining the Prothane rear insert and "race" setup with the ES kit may result in vibration close to those 25 cent "love master" beds you find at cheap hotel rooms. Hey maybe you could use that for something you never know.
NOTE: When installing polyurethane inserts, make sure to lubricate them with Wurth HHS2000 spray to or they will begin to squeak over time.
Z10 Radius Arms
If you're willing to pay ten times more than polyurethane kits, the ultimate in eliminating wheel hop would be using radius arms. Z10 makes a kit for Civics/Integras that will bolt right up to the cross-member and front tow hooks. This braces the suspension assembly and does not allow for any deflection when launching. You can also adjust the stiffness of the arms as well as adjust wheel caster.
Here's a picture of Z10's kit for the early generation Civic/CRX
The radius arms would be the best choice for eliminating wheel hop and improving launch ability. However if the Z10 kit is a little out of your price range, the cost effective poly kits still do a good job in helping to get you those low 2 second 60 foot times at the strip.
EDIT
i posted this in another thread... i found this website that explains more about wheel hop and what to do
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