Fuel Pressure

NATES98dc4LSV

THE pRO-nATER
I have a quick question I've searched with no luck, but I'm sure it because it's a simple question with alot of variables I have a a 98 b18b1 block with a b16a head LSV! 90s head i have the pgmfi intake manifold with full msd ignition minus the 6al box, i have skunk 2 cam gears, full system 2.5" and a chipped p28 ecu im pretty sure the cams are LS cams and same with the pistons, but ~what should i be running full pressure wise? Under full throttle wether im in the lower rpm range or hitting ZeeEE VTAK my A/F is always 3 bars stoich and 2 green rich! should i be running more fuel or less? also smokes and almost sounds as if its loading up on fuel around 7800rpm i have the spark gap at .045 rite nw and the spark bridge is still extremely strong due to the msd system pro-billet dizzy FTW! any ways i was told from a fellow honda tuner of mine that i should gap the spark till its almost cant make a brdge anymore then bring it in just a tad and up my fuel a lil he said for an LS/VTAK it should be dumping more fuel than it is and that Vtec should hit much harder and should growl why more then before 6k i kicks in at 5k that when i really hear the pitch change and its starts to scream by 6k and i shift at about 7650 but id like to be able to make it to the tach point at 8k any clues on if im loading up on fuel or lean on it? P.S. the old denzo plugs that were in the car were a stage colder then the ones i have now and they were burnt up with white residue on them leading me to believe that it was running lean bfor i got it
 

NATES98dc4LSV

THE pRO-nATER
plus now that i think of it my SRI is small in diameter then most intakes i see on the street it match the size of the TB most are larger correct? and i have that PGMFI manifold so if anything i should be restriced on airflow making the mixture more fuel so wouldnt i be rich already?
 

NATES98dc4LSV

THE pRO-nATER
????????????????????????????wtf is that suppose to mean oh and here
 


Samurai_Blue

Yolo Whippin'
NATES98dc4LSV said:
I have a quick question I've searched with no luck, but I'm sure it because it's a simple question with alot of variables I have a a 98 b18b1 block with a b16a head LSV! 90s head i have the pgmfi intake manifold with full msd ignition minus the 6al box, i have skunk 2 cam gears, full system 2.5" and a chipped p28 ecu im pretty sure the cams are LS cams and same with the pistons, but ~what should i be running full pressure wise? Under full throttle wether im in the lower rpm range or hitting ZeeEE VTAK my A/F is always 3 bars stoich and 2 green rich! should i be running more fuel or less? also smokes and almost sounds as if its loading up on fuel around 7800rpm i have the spark gap at .045 rite nw and the spark bridge is still extremely strong due to the msd system pro-billet dizzy FTW! any ways i was told from a fellow honda tuner of mine that i should gap the spark till its almost cant make a brdge anymore then bring it in just a tad and up my fuel a lil he said for an LS/VTAK it should be dumping more fuel than it is and that Vtec should hit much harder and should growl why more then before 6k i kicks in at 5k that when i really hear the pitch change and its starts to scream by 6k and i shift at about 7650 but id like to be able to make it to the tach point at 8k any clues on if im loading up on fuel or lean on it? P.S. the old denzo plugs that were in the car were a stage colder then the ones i have now and they were burnt up with white residue on them leading me to believe that it was running lean bfor i got it
Click to expand...
what are you tuned on?

NATES98dc4LSV said:
plus now that i think of it my SRI is small in diameter then most intakes i see on the street it match the size of the TB most are larger correct? and i have that PGMFI manifold so if anything i should be restriced on airflow making the mixture more fuel so wouldnt i be rich already?
Click to expand...
WHAT????
 

suspendedHatch

Legalize Illegal Aliens
Don't listen to any friend that tells you they can tune your car by the sound of the exhaust. Why not tune the engine with a magic 8 ball?

You need a dyno and a wideband O2. The way you describe your A/F ratio gauge readout doesn't tell me anything.

Leave the plug gap and heat range stock. Has your setup changed the compression ratio? If so I would start with the plugs for the B series engine that has a similar compression ratio, the GSR or the Type R.

You never tune a Honda with the fuel pressure. Set it to stock. Too high or too low and the injectors wont function properly. You have a programmable ECU so you should get it dyno tuned.

The intake pipe is always slightly larger than the tb opening. Pulse wave intake tuning is some serious shit. I would stick with a name brand intake like AEM if you want every last possible hp gain. But for the price, going with an ebay pipe (and an AEM dryflow filter) and making up the hp somewhere else is perfectly understandable.
 


NATES98dc4LSV

THE pRO-nATER
im not sure what tune im on i purchased the car this way and im refering to i have a restrictive intake system so what would explain the old plugs showing signs of being lean wouldnt they be rich if there was too little air and more fuel?
 

NATES98dc4LSV

THE pRO-nATER
i went with the best denso plugs i could get for the b16a head should i have went with the stock ls plugs? b18b1
 

NATES98dc4LSV

THE pRO-nATER
all and all the car just seems slower than it should be im getting walked by hatch with b16 swaps and hatchs wth gsr swaps i dunno y i feel like the powers there but the LS trans is holding me back i just wanna be sure that im squeezing every bit out of the motor i can now
 

Samurai_Blue

Yolo Whippin'
NATES98dc4LSV said:
im not sure what tune im on i purchased the car this way and im refering to i have a restrictive intake system so what would explain the old plugs showing signs of being lean wouldnt they be rich if there was too little air and more fuel?
Click to expand...
rip appart your ecu and find out for us
 
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