HELP, Broken LCA Bolt,

Integra617

Chirp from 1st to 3rd!
Well today i was installed my Blox LCA and i did the passengers side no problems..I got to the drivers side and the subframe bolt came out..then the one on the shock..but the last once closest to the wheel snapped.The head to the bolt came right off..Any suggestions guys? I was thinking of cutting off the nut behind the bolt, replacing the bolt and puttin on a new nut?:cry:
 

00DC2TW

New Member
Well today i was installed my Blox LCA and i did the passengers side no problems..I got to the drivers side and the subframe bolt came out..then the one on the shock..but the last once closest to the wheel snapped.The head to the bolt came right off..Any suggestions guys? I was thinking of cutting off the nut behind the bolt, replacing the bolt and puttin on a new nut?:cry:
I would just use a "sawzall" or a die grinder and grind the bolt off between both sides inside of the shock mounts so you can reuse the shock without putting a new nut on since you sawed or cut it off
 

Integra617

Chirp from 1st to 3rd!
Its really tight in there. i doubt ill be able to get a grinder in there..i was thinking the same thing maybe cuttin then using a vise grips to get whats left of the bolt out? :/
 

72Spitfire

Member
Ouch! I did the same thing. It took me an ENTIRE day and 3 drill bits to remove it. Those bolts are case hardened and even the best drill bits have trouble cutting through it. It's really the only way to remove it. Honestly, I would find a used control arm and avoid a days worth of drilling. Be about the same price too when you figure in drill bit cost and mental stress.

Make sure you get OEM Acura bolts for it too ($9 each if my memory serves me), don't go to the hardware store for a replacement. The metal is softer and you don't want to take a chance of snapping one under heavy load and crash your beloved Teggy.

Good luck to you!
 


72Spitfire

Member
I learned a lesson. Every spring, I remove those bolts, clean them on a wire wheel grinder, place a little oil on them and put them back in to torque. I WILL NOT EVER let that happen again.

Oh....this may help you also....

Rear:
Stock damper top nut : 22 lb*ft
Upper Shock Mounts: 36 lb*ft
LCA to subframe: 40 lb*ft
LCA to damper: 40 lb*ft
LCA to trailing arm: 40 lb*ft
Locating arm (UCA) to trailing arm: 40 lb*ft
Locating arm (UCA) to frame: 29 lb*ft

Front:
Strut Tower Brace: 17 lb*ft
Stock damper top nut (Picture): 22 lb*ft
Upper Shock Mounts (Picture): 36 lb*ft
Shock Fork to LCA (Picture): 47 lb*ft
Damper to shock fork (Picture - Arrow): 32 lb*ft
Upper A-arm castle nut (Picture): 32 lb*ft
Upper A-arm pivot (Picture): 40 lb*ft
Upper A-arm mounting bracket (Picture): 47 lb*ft
 

Integra617

Chirp from 1st to 3rd!
Ouch! I did the same thing. It took me an ENTIRE day and 3 drill bits to remove it. Those bolts are case hardened and even the best drill bits have trouble cutting through it. It's really the only way to remove it. Honestly, I would find a used control arm and avoid a days worth of drilling. Be about the same price too when you figure in drill bit cost and mental stress.

Make sure you get OEM Acura bolts for it too ($9 each if my memory serves me), don't go to the hardware store for a replacement. The metal is softer and you don't want to take a chance of snapping one under heavy load and crash your beloved Teggy.

Good luck to you!

Yeah thing is the bolt broke on while trying to remove the stock LCA lol.I dont want to drill it out because ive tried that plenty of times and it seems to never work for me.I'm most likely just going to cut the bolt off and get it off somehow, it just sucks because space is limited..ahhhhhhhhhhhhh:letout:
 

72Spitfire

Member
You can cut off both ends but its still going to be frozen inside the arm too. I tried that first with lots of heat, PB blaster soak and a sledgehammer....wouldn't budge. I had to drill it out or purchase a new arm which I would have done in hind sight.
 


Integra617

Chirp from 1st to 3rd!
You can cut off both ends but its still going to be frozen inside the arm too. I tried that first with lots of heat, PB blaster soak and a sledgehammer....wouldn't budge. I had to drill it out or purchase a new arm which I would have done in hind sight.
Ahhhh, this is going to be a headache. I called it too I KNEW it was too good to be true i knew at least one side would give me trouble..
Thanks alot though, appriciate it.
 

00DC2TW

New Member
Its really tight in there. i doubt ill be able to get a grinder in there..i was thinking the same thing maybe cuttin then using a vise grips to get whats left of the bolt out? :/
Trust me I got a die grinder in there, I just went through this same process in october... The problem is that the bolt is seized in the bushing collar, you wont be able to get it out of the bushing, and you will need to press the bushing out of the control arm...
 

72Spitfire

Member
Oooh never though of that! If you can get the arm off the car with strut attached, set the bushing on fire and let it burn away. Work the bruning bushing around with a big flat head screwdriver. Then just get a new bolt and energy suspension bushings.
You could use and angle grinder with a thin cutting wheel, just be careful not to cut anything else in the process like the fork of the strut.
 

Integra617

Chirp from 1st to 3rd!
Oooh never though of that! If you can get the arm off the car with strut attached, set the bushing on fire and let it burn away. Work the bruning bushing around with a big flat head screwdriver. Then just get a new bolt and energy suspension bushings.
You could use and angle grinder with a thin cutting wheel, just be careful not to cut anything else in the process like the fork of the strut.
its the bolt connected to trailing arm.to the left of the shock (drivers side)
 
Last edited:

MyLittleTeg

Honda Enthusiast
Broke my LCA to body bolt. Closest to the gas tank so I can't even get a grinder in there for all the sparks.....FML. Going to have to drill bit it out and go with a new LCA. That's what I get for thinking factory bolts will come right out with pb blaster

" I’d rather lose by a mile because I built my own car, than win by an inch because someone built it for me. "
 

DonJulio

Reppin' tha NW
The easiest way to drill a hole is to use a tungsten carbide bit. They are pricy mothers.

Don't skimp on a job like this.

They are the toughest out there and used for tunneling mines and etc.

Find the biggest extractor and size the tungsten drill bit to fit.

This is the last resort if you cannot cutoff the nuts or do not have access to a welder. It's much easier to weld on a new nut than to extract a whole bolt.
 
Top