GreenTeggy
My name is Ben
$1000 its almost everything you just need a oil return line!
you should buy it! then all you'll need is something to tune it with
Help Me Build My Teg
- Thread starter Nando
- Start date
you should buy it! then all you'll need is something to tune it withGreenTeggy
My name is Ben
Oh let me explain! okay to tune your car you will need something like HONDATA its an aftermarket ECU that is cable of being modified by a tuner to meet all the cars air to fuel ratio and anything else the car needs more or less of
GreenTeggy
My name is Ben
Well mr thread jacker lol! IF and only IF you had a healthy motor just turbo it if its not healthy then rebuild and boost
8urcivic
ONLY couches pull out!!!!
mirrorimg
Well-Known Member
Compression and leakdown test. You shouldnt have more than 10% leakdown (i think). You can have a shop do the tests for you, the leakdown test is fairly involved.
Joshmmc
New Member
When you boost a car, your engine management system's ability to match air and fuel across the map will become totally shot. To re-map the ECU, you first need to "chip" it, which requires anything from a small piggyback purchase for a few hundred bucks (Hondata, Uberdata, etc) to a full "standalone" system, costing thousands and requiring much more elaborate tuning. Once you're chipped, you'll need a dyno in order to tune accurately. Some people try to tune on the street with a laptop in their car, that is stupid. Do a little research and see if a shop near you offers dyno tuning. You'll probably be able to either rent the dyno for a chunk of time to do your own tuning, or for a bit more money, a tuner at the shop will do it for you. The research matters; find a garage with a reputed tuner, I recommend that if you don't know much about tuning, you let them do it this time.
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BigMac88
Fat guy in a little 'teg
Ok first of all man, what do you want to do with the car?
Is it a daily-driver, drag, auto-x, track/time-attack, show, etc.
Boost is not always better than N/A, it really depends on what you want to do with the car. Once you know what you want to do with the car, PM me I'll help you out.
Is it a daily-driver, drag, auto-x, track/time-attack, show, etc.
Boost is not always better than N/A, it really depends on what you want to do with the car. Once you know what you want to do with the car, PM me I'll help you out.
Joshmmc
New Member
Other stuff to keep in mind when you boost:
If you want an easy to drive daily driver, you'll want a smaller turbo. Bigger turbos have much longer lag periods. If your turbo doesn't start making power until 5,000 RPM, then it will be really inneficient and impractical on the roads. Ball bearing turbos often reduce lag time because they spool faster, but cost more money.
The more boost you run, the harder your internals are going to be getting worked. Some engines can handle more boost than others while running stock internals. Often, compression is the difference. The B18B can actually hold a little bit more boost than the B18C. If you don't get crazy with the boost, it'll hugely extend the life of your engine. Rebuilding from the start will allow you to turn the boost up significantly without the same worries, but as with everything else, it takes time and money.
If you want an easy to drive daily driver, you'll want a smaller turbo. Bigger turbos have much longer lag periods. If your turbo doesn't start making power until 5,000 RPM, then it will be really inneficient and impractical on the roads. Ball bearing turbos often reduce lag time because they spool faster, but cost more money.
The more boost you run, the harder your internals are going to be getting worked. Some engines can handle more boost than others while running stock internals. Often, compression is the difference. The B18B can actually hold a little bit more boost than the B18C. If you don't get crazy with the boost, it'll hugely extend the life of your engine. Rebuilding from the start will allow you to turn the boost up significantly without the same worries, but as with everything else, it takes time and money.
Nando
New Member
oh my this turbo thing is much more difficult than i expected...
i want this car to be my daily driver and a pretty fast teg atleast like 190-200hp and around the same torque...
how about like b20 block with some type r pistons and a b16 head with some good headers full exhaust and maybe some other bolt ons or shit lik that?? would that do the trick? lol
i want this car to be my daily driver and a pretty fast teg atleast like 190-200hp and around the same torque...
how about like b20 block with some type r pistons and a b16 head with some good headers full exhaust and maybe some other bolt ons or shit lik that?? would that do the trick? lol
Joshmmc
New Member
You've already got an LS block, which means upgrading to the B20 would be a few hundred bucks and more work for just a bit of displacement. Of course, you could sell your B18B as a whole though, and reclaim some of the costs. That's up to you, do the research and see what sort of B20's are available to you.
Now, talking LS/VTEC, yes, 190-200 WHP is possible. It's a bit of a project, and it's all about doing it right if you want a motor that will actually hold together for a while. The B16 head is most popular, it's cheaper than the GS-R head, and if you throw the Type-R pistons in, you're talking about a "Baby Type-R" engine now. It would be a quick, budget N/A motor for sure if you did it right. Consider doing some more building of it. Port and polished heads, boring and sleeving, etc. All depends on how far you want to take it. Get some quotes from machine shops around.
Bolt-ons won't make a world of difference compared to the build of the motor itself, just make sure you don't buy complete crap that will fall apart and require replacement.
Now, talking LS/VTEC, yes, 190-200 WHP is possible. It's a bit of a project, and it's all about doing it right if you want a motor that will actually hold together for a while. The B16 head is most popular, it's cheaper than the GS-R head, and if you throw the Type-R pistons in, you're talking about a "Baby Type-R" engine now. It would be a quick, budget N/A motor for sure if you did it right. Consider doing some more building of it. Port and polished heads, boring and sleeving, etc. All depends on how far you want to take it. Get some quotes from machine shops around.
Bolt-ons won't make a world of difference compared to the build of the motor itself, just make sure you don't buy complete crap that will fall apart and require replacement.
Nando
New Member
thanks josh
So a b18b Block and b20b block aren't much different?
now i been hearing about porting, polishing blocks and boring and sleeving, now do i do this or do i buy them like that??
im taking notes here...so basically ls/vtec are kinda known for going bad sometimes unless built right?
So a b18b Block and b20b block aren't much different?
now i been hearing about porting, polishing blocks and boring and sleeving, now do i do this or do i buy them like that??
im taking notes here...so basically ls/vtec are kinda known for going bad sometimes unless built right?
Joshmmc
New Member
The B18 and B20 block differ really only in that bit of displacement. The difference in power being 4 horsepower and 6 torque, comparing stock engine to stock engine. Of course, larger displacement reacts differently to upgrades, so that little power difference may become more substantial down the road.
There are two different generations of B20's; the B20B and the B20Z. (B20Z is still called the B20B in Japan) There's like a 20 WHP difference between the engines, but if you're replacing the top end and pistons, then it boils down to the two being the same, as far as I know.
For the porting/polishing/boring/sleeving and other engine machining procedures, you will send your motor to a shop to have it done, unless you end up buying a motor from the shop pre-machined/built.
Correct, LS/VTEC has tons of potential to be a great motor - if done correctly. That's pretty much just the way Frankenstein engines are in general.
There are two different generations of B20's; the B20B and the B20Z. (B20Z is still called the B20B in Japan) There's like a 20 WHP difference between the engines, but if you're replacing the top end and pistons, then it boils down to the two being the same, as far as I know.
For the porting/polishing/boring/sleeving and other engine machining procedures, you will send your motor to a shop to have it done, unless you end up buying a motor from the shop pre-machined/built.
Correct, LS/VTEC has tons of potential to be a great motor - if done correctly. That's pretty much just the way Frankenstein engines are in general.