help on what to do about header!

blacknightteg

I drive a Reject Special
alright so i had purchased the short tube RMF header for an LS to go onto my B20, well that shit dont fit! connects fine to the block but there is about an inch and half to 2 inches maybe of a gap between the header and the cat. On top of that the cat is a two bolt oval shape and the header is a three bolt triangle shape. so i dont know what to do. i am getting told to take it to a exhaust shop and have them make a reducer, while im also getting told to just run a test pipe. now if i run a test pipe, wont i run CEL codes? i know i wont pass emissions. as well as if i put the cat back on it wouldnt bolt up correctly anyways. so what do i do? if i get a reducer made, would it still fit cause of the space issue? whats yalls opinion.
 

gattlinggun1

Satin [DC]
When I installed my DC Sports header I had a 5 inch gap between the cat and midpipe.. basically get you a Blox adj. test pipe, I bought one for $90. I have no probs with it. One thing make sure your mid pipe isnt upside down... I had that mistake.. tisk tisk.. but emissions, I cant help you there.
 

blacknightteg

I drive a Reject Special
well i mean i know i wont be able to pass emissions, i mean i figured that, do you drive around with a the CEL on all the time? i think what im going to end up doing is with this gap, im going to take it to an exhaust shop and get the them to use a peice of the OEM header to make up the space difference. doing this will also take away from me having to getting a reducer to fit both bolt patterns. if i can, i, going to use a piece of the down pipe, the piece that bolts to the cat, then have then fabricate a plate on the other end that will compensate for the three bolt pattern on the header.
 

gattlinggun1

Satin [DC]
I have no cel problems. I originally had a custom cat made with the extension.. but had a lot of raddlin and exhaust leak. But go with the plan u have.
 


Samurai_Blue

Yolo Whippin'
you need the blox adjustable pipe as stated before.all b series fit the block but fitment to the cat/test pipe wont always be the same
 


blacknightteg

I drive a Reject Special
lol so i noticed. if i could purchase a piece that would allow me to take the three bolt patter to the two and still keep the cat. i would. otherwise i have to go the route that i mentioned above. i actually shouldnt cost me to much. i realized a good friend of mine has a family friend that owns a bike shop. so he said we can just go there fabricate the piece i need and then ill be good to go. lol im all new at this modification/fabrication thing. i would love to do a test pipe, but i just dont want to have to reinstall a stock header and what nto for it to work.
 

mirrorimg

Well-Known Member
Take the cat off, remove the peice the header bolts to and have it replaced with one that fits the new header. You can have a little extension put onto it to make up the gap also
 

Aussie

Zoom-Zoom
Don't extend the header, you'll ruin it. Get the flange changed on you cat, or header to work with each other and get your exhaust extended so it meets up with your cat.
 

blacknightteg

I drive a Reject Special
i never said i was going to extend the header. i said i was going to make an adapter that bolted from the 3 bolt pattern of the header to the two bolt patter of the cat. i was going to do this by using the end of my stock header plus a few inches to make up the gap and then add a 3 bolt patter on to the other side that would go into the header.
 
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