dugan33
New Member
Hey, so this problem is so frustrating that I have come to join this website and make this thread after hours of forum searching on google.
Problem is: Recently bought a clean 1992 Integra stock with B18a1.
-originally ran ok had a rough idle kind of low like 700.
-had 3 check engine lights (#3 MAP, #9Distributor/cylinder position 1, #14 IACV)
What I have done to fix those:
#3 MAP
noticed the ran runs and drives fine I doubted the MAP being bad. I voltage tested the MAP sensor in on position and while pumping air into a vacumm line connected to it. Tested fine, voltage went down as vacuum increased and vice versa. However, I noticed the map on the firewall has been deleted along with vacuum canister. I relocated the map sensor from a plug on back of the intake next to the fuel regulator vacuum to a plug over by the throttle position screw, but not the big one in the middle.Also, this map sensor isnt from this generation integra its smaller and looks different. anyways, CEL #3 went away yay!
#14 IACV
I disassembled the throttle body completely(EVERYTHING), and reassembled it. used wire brush to clean ports, and soaked it in throttle body cleaner, then sanded the whole thing especially butterfly valve with 1000grit paper. I let the IACV soak in a a pool of throttle body cleaner for 8 min along with the FITL completely dissassembled. I reassembled them both after removing gunk and sanding them and screwed down the FITV about 3 turns almost to the bottom. To test the IACV i connected it to the battery and it make a clicking noise. figured it was good so I reassembled everything.
NOPE way worse idle continuously surged up and down :cry:
I then replaced my IACV with one from a 2001 civic that i also cleaned, and it steadied the idle now at 1100rpm. Now my car consistently stutters when I start it and usually stalls immediately if I don't push the gas, and once it stops it idles at 1100rpm warm or cold no matter how i adjust idle screw(done with car off or running with iacv unplugged to 500rpm)
#9 Cylinder position
I went on to my distributor anyways hoping that maybe somehow clearing that code would fix it. I looked the the position of the dizzy and noticed it was all the ways forward. I figured that was advanced too much so I moved it in the middle(no timing light). idle sounds better but didnt go up or down. Then, I disassembled the dizzy to find there was oil everywhere! everything inside was covered in oil! I cleaned it all out with brake cleaner dried it and reassembled with new wires and plugs.
-> still nothing changed!
so I rechecked the wire connections. sure enough a single white wire wasnt hooked up! i directly soldered it around the harness to ensure it doesnt fall out, and tested a recorded voltage of .3v at idle and continuity on each end. Then i reset the ecu by pulling the 7.5 fuse and everything was great for 3min! the car ran better than ever at exactly 750rpm and accelerated way easier. then CEL #9 came back on
I also tested my Throttle position sensor and it tested perfectly fine. I tested it because a new symptom that came with the high idle and start stalling is CHUGGING. and it's bad i dont even want to drive it! the thing hesitates and chugs at low rpms below 2k but is fine above 2k no matter what speed im going. BUT this never happened before it came with the 1.1k high idle problem.
last idea is maybe my clutch is messed up, not the plate or pedal but the throwout bearing. all of that is original at 156k and i can hear a strange noise from my bell housing.
so what the hell is going on? no vacuum leaks 2 cel's fixed now I have way worse driveability than before! sensors all test fine, injectors also tested fine, battery is in trunk but has voltage of 13 off 11.5-12 on.
Problem is: Recently bought a clean 1992 Integra stock with B18a1.
-originally ran ok had a rough idle kind of low like 700.
-had 3 check engine lights (#3 MAP, #9Distributor/cylinder position 1, #14 IACV)
What I have done to fix those:
#3 MAP
noticed the ran runs and drives fine I doubted the MAP being bad. I voltage tested the MAP sensor in on position and while pumping air into a vacumm line connected to it. Tested fine, voltage went down as vacuum increased and vice versa. However, I noticed the map on the firewall has been deleted along with vacuum canister. I relocated the map sensor from a plug on back of the intake next to the fuel regulator vacuum to a plug over by the throttle position screw, but not the big one in the middle.Also, this map sensor isnt from this generation integra its smaller and looks different. anyways, CEL #3 went away yay!
#14 IACV
I disassembled the throttle body completely(EVERYTHING), and reassembled it. used wire brush to clean ports, and soaked it in throttle body cleaner, then sanded the whole thing especially butterfly valve with 1000grit paper. I let the IACV soak in a a pool of throttle body cleaner for 8 min along with the FITL completely dissassembled. I reassembled them both after removing gunk and sanding them and screwed down the FITV about 3 turns almost to the bottom. To test the IACV i connected it to the battery and it make a clicking noise. figured it was good so I reassembled everything.
NOPE way worse idle continuously surged up and down :cry:
I then replaced my IACV with one from a 2001 civic that i also cleaned, and it steadied the idle now at 1100rpm. Now my car consistently stutters when I start it and usually stalls immediately if I don't push the gas, and once it stops it idles at 1100rpm warm or cold no matter how i adjust idle screw(done with car off or running with iacv unplugged to 500rpm)
#9 Cylinder position
I went on to my distributor anyways hoping that maybe somehow clearing that code would fix it. I looked the the position of the dizzy and noticed it was all the ways forward. I figured that was advanced too much so I moved it in the middle(no timing light). idle sounds better but didnt go up or down. Then, I disassembled the dizzy to find there was oil everywhere! everything inside was covered in oil! I cleaned it all out with brake cleaner dried it and reassembled with new wires and plugs.
-> still nothing changed!
so I rechecked the wire connections. sure enough a single white wire wasnt hooked up! i directly soldered it around the harness to ensure it doesnt fall out, and tested a recorded voltage of .3v at idle and continuity on each end. Then i reset the ecu by pulling the 7.5 fuse and everything was great for 3min! the car ran better than ever at exactly 750rpm and accelerated way easier. then CEL #9 came back on
I also tested my Throttle position sensor and it tested perfectly fine. I tested it because a new symptom that came with the high idle and start stalling is CHUGGING. and it's bad i dont even want to drive it! the thing hesitates and chugs at low rpms below 2k but is fine above 2k no matter what speed im going. BUT this never happened before it came with the 1.1k high idle problem.
last idea is maybe my clutch is messed up, not the plate or pedal but the throwout bearing. all of that is original at 156k and i can hear a strange noise from my bell housing.
so what the hell is going on? no vacuum leaks 2 cel's fixed now I have way worse driveability than before! sensors all test fine, injectors also tested fine, battery is in trunk but has voltage of 13 off 11.5-12 on.
