D1scoPotato
New Member
My ingnition tumbler broke and i dont have 300 for a new so i am installing two toggle switchs one for the on position and one for start all i need to know is which wires i need to connect and what colors they are
ignition switch
- Thread starter D1scoPotato
- Start date
BrokenTalon27
W.F.O
ETMs are your friend.
You could just rebuild your current unit.
You could just rebuild your current unit.
enoch723
New Member
Your tumbler broke? Mind explaining how it "broke" or how you even know it broke? Cause this things dont brake for shit unless your just a damn hulk and somehow shoved your key too far in and broke them. Lol.
Secondly.. if you set up the switchs, why are you asking us for help if they are already set up?
Im not bugging or angry or anything just confused
Secondly.. if you set up the switchs, why are you asking us for help if they are already set up?
Im not bugging or angry or anything just confused
D1scoPotato
New Member
The end of the tumbler has cracked or fractured so its not getting a good connection and instead of spending a crap ton of money i wanna bypass that oh and ive spent countless hoursbon google trying to find help with no luck its my dd and im just tryin to get her running again
Muckman
Not a M0derator
I googled "integra ignition switch wiring diagram". This was 2nd link. Very hard.
http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?p=45124848
http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?p=45124848
enoch723
New Member
Still not quite sure how you cracked a tumbler? Check to make sure its not something else. Just pull the back plastic piece of the back of the ignition which should only be 2 bolts holding it in place. After you get it off, put a big key or something in the white socket and turn it. If its the tumbler, then it should start like a normal ignition
TegraTiger
New Member
What Year?
1. What year Teg do you have?
2. Click here for wiring schematic on a '93.
I had a problem with my ignition switch, where if my starter was hooked up using the stock wiring, it acted as if it didn't have enough juice to turn the engine over. First I suspected the battery was weak, but there was nothing wrong with the battery. I then replaced my battery cables, but with the same result. So I bypassed the entire system by running 2 wires (10 gauge each) : 1- connected to a battery terminal in the fuse panel under the hood (50-amp), 2- the other connected to the starter solenoid. Then I ran both wires thru the firewall and up to a toggle switch mounted on the dash. The switch is a "momentary on - off" switch, where the momentary part uses a spring to hold it in the off position until I move it with my finger to the On position to start the car. Although I'm no longer using the neutral safety switch and starter relay, this setup ALWAYS WORKS, and works great too. I made sure I used a quality switch from an electronics parts store, rather than from an auto parts store. The switch is rated at 30 amps, but so far I haven't had any problems AT ALL. I use the key to turn the dash lights on and to provide juice for the car computer & fuel pump, then I just flick the toggle over and it starts every time.
1. What year Teg do you have?
2. Click here for wiring schematic on a '93.
I had a problem with my ignition switch, where if my starter was hooked up using the stock wiring, it acted as if it didn't have enough juice to turn the engine over. First I suspected the battery was weak, but there was nothing wrong with the battery. I then replaced my battery cables, but with the same result. So I bypassed the entire system by running 2 wires (10 gauge each) : 1- connected to a battery terminal in the fuse panel under the hood (50-amp), 2- the other connected to the starter solenoid. Then I ran both wires thru the firewall and up to a toggle switch mounted on the dash. The switch is a "momentary on - off" switch, where the momentary part uses a spring to hold it in the off position until I move it with my finger to the On position to start the car. Although I'm no longer using the neutral safety switch and starter relay, this setup ALWAYS WORKS, and works great too. I made sure I used a quality switch from an electronics parts store, rather than from an auto parts store. The switch is rated at 30 amps, but so far I haven't had any problems AT ALL. I use the key to turn the dash lights on and to provide juice for the car computer & fuel pump, then I just flick the toggle over and it starts every time.